Im actually asking for my bro. Its a 2003 F150 XL Sport, 4.2L V6 4x2. Is it an 8.8" 31 spline rear end? We need to put a locker in there or an LSD, cuz he keeps getting stuck in mud on the jobsite. Will this locker do? Will it alter cornering?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

Would this be the same diff as on a '96 P73 interceptor and '01 Crown vic?

I actually have a Tundra (dont kill me). And its $350 for a TRD eaton LSD for my truck. I wish I could get parts as cheap as you guys can

 

does he care if it is noisy? detroit makes the strongest and bes lockers in my opinion, it is not a ls it is a true locker when he makes sharp turns it will clunk frome the diff loking and unlocking, if he wants to get a ls a milion people make them for the 8.8 auburn gear, eaton, true trac, to name a few good ones go to www.4wheelparts.com hope this helps your bud

 

This ford locker is no good? I dont think he wants it making noise. Maybe we could install a locker ourselves, but an LSD we'd have to pay someone to do?

Does his truck have a 31 spline or 28 spline diff? Im 95% sure its the 8.8 rear end.

 

alright to find out what rearend it is crawl under the truck, and look on the diff cover bolts there should be a little tab of metal on one of the bolts, it will say something like this 3558.890120w and there will be a tab on one of the other bolts with a sereal number you might have to call a dealer with the sereal to find out the spline count, but the 355 in the tab will be your ring and pinion ratio the 8.8 is your axle and the rest will be recomended fluid, you could do an axle swap with a junkard truck with the trac lock that is the L.S. that ford uses but it is real high preload in the clutch packs so your tires really have to be spinning for it to engage, and by then you are already stuck, if i were you i would go with auburn gears pro series it has a low preload so he shouldnt get stuck, putting in a differental is pretty dificult if you dont know what you are doing but if you are a desent mecanic and have the right tools, baclash indicator, micromiter, than it usauly only takes an hour or so if you know what you are doing, if you have Q' let me know i have done a few

 

It's a 31-spline 8.8". The e-bay differential is not a locker. It is a Trac-lok, which is what Ford uses for limited slip applications. A locking differential and a LS differential have the same installation procedure.

 

a LS and locker have the same basic install prosedure depending on the manufacture the T locker, ARB locker, Ox locker, E locker are all manualy ingaged lockers and requir the instulation of a device to engage them were it be a cable or air, or an electic switch, a LS will go in like the factory diff, hope this might clear up a few things

 

Well we'd probably get something like a powertrax lock-right or a ford LSD. What weight of gear oil does the stock open diff take? 75W140 synthetic?

 

i went with the true trac and it will be back from the shop friday and in the mud saturday so i'll keep you posted on the performance.....it is supposed to be the most aggressive LS out there. more than likely your rear diff is factory recomended to use a synthetic 75 or 80/140.......also the powertrax loc right will prob be somewhat rough on the street and somewhat noisy since it is an auto locker meaning it will unlock in a turn if you dont gas through the turn so one wheel will spin faster for a smoother turn but there most likely be a "clunk".....there is also some backlash that could be experianced going from throttle to coast and it is worse if you have a manual tranny. just my 2 pennies good luck!

 

I've got a 2001 Lariat 4x4 with the 5.6L.
I've been thinking about replacing the open diff with a LS...
I bought a new LS unit from Ford, and I'm looking for any gotchas swapping the diffs out.
Other than replacing the seals (and of course new fliud with friction reducer), is there anything I need to look out for, or being a Ford part, is this a fairly simple swap out?

Thanks!

 

Welcome ! Here are some useful general guidelines.
www.ring-pinion.com/tech/yukoninst.pdf

 

After reading a lot of posts and articles on the subject I am glad I don't have it but I may revise that after a harsh winter IF my friends with the LS don't keep doing doughnuts! I MIGHT get a locker if I find I am really going deep off roads though!

 

If you have an open diff now you can get something like a Lock right.On these you just replace your spider gears with the component's that come with the unit.It's easier than pulling out your differential and switching ring's gear's and maybe having to reshim.

 

Yeah, I sure appreciate that, but from day one, I've been tired of having one wheel spinning when I need to get moving.(particularly when turning a corner on wet pavement!)

I'm not certain it's the best thing, but with these Ohio winters, I can't drive in 4x all the time!


Max, I really appreciate the instructions - I've searched the web for three days and these are pretty darn good.

Pardon my ignorance (and maybe I should just take this to a drive train shop), but if I'm swapping the Ford diff out for the Ford LS diff, do you think the specs would be so different that the pinion depth, shims, etc needs all the adjustments described here? I could see where another brand would need that?

Thanks for your help!

 

You're more than welcome ! First of all, Freak98 is right on with the ease of installation with Powertrax products, although I haven't seen any 9.75" applications. Yes, those are VERY useful instructions. If you were to only exchange the carriers using the same gearset, you could theoretically leave the entire pinion assembly untouched. Upon installation, you will have to press carrier bearings on your new LS carrier; I suggest new ones. Using 2 Ford carriers, your settings should be similar. You could try to initially install the new LS carrier with the original carrier bearing shims and check your pattern. Here is where best laid plans can go wrong. If your pattern proves you need pinion depth adjustment, the entire rear end will need to be disassembled, INCLUDING THE ENTIRE PINION ASSEMBLY. If you get lucky and this is not the case, you can leave the pinion assembly, and refine your backlash and carrier bearing shims/preload. This would assume that your entire pinion assembly is in good condition (example: wear, bearings, and seal). It's alot of work and it takes some experience to set up properly. The last thing you want after all the work is problems like whining, etc.

 

IS a Ford Posi for $75 off of ebay that much worse than a Detroit or an auburn for $300-500? Id rather get the cheap one if it works fine, since we have to pay $200 to get it installed anyway.