rear end fluid
#1
08-17-2006, 09:19 AM
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rear end fluid
so i have a 2k2 f150 XTR (if the XTR makes any diff lol), its a posi 3.55. i have 71,000Km's on it and i was wondering when do you change the rear end fluid, along with what you change it with. I hear synthetics are the best, is this true? i use mobil 1 10w30 motor oil, does mobil 1 make rear end stuff as well? sorry for all the questions, im still a noob but i wanna learn
#2
08-17-2006, 09:39 AM
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Hi,
Doesn't your engine call for 5w20, if so, I would be using that and not 10w30 as that is the wrong viscosity.
I believe the rear end needs 75/140 synthetic gear oil, mobil 1 also makes this, I would also add at least 4, maybe 8oz of Ford Friction Modifer available through your local dealerships parts counter.
Hope that helps.
Doesn't your engine call for 5w20, if so, I would be using that and not 10w30 as that is the wrong viscosity.
I believe the rear end needs 75/140 synthetic gear oil, mobil 1 also makes this, I would also add at least 4, maybe 8oz of Ford Friction Modifer available through your local dealerships parts counter.
Hope that helps.
#3
08-17-2006, 09:51 AM
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it helps thanks! also yes it does call for 5w20 but heres the reason i use 10w30.
in a nutshell.
i ordered my truck from ford in the summer, there was a slight delay and to compensate i got 3 free oil changes from the dealer. once winter hit and it got really cold like it always does in canada i go to start it up in the morning and i hear a clanging/rattling noise like keys or something. i ask my old man what was going on he said it seemed like the oil was running out of the,...block? lol im still fairly new so bear with me
. anyway he asked what weight it was i said 5w20. he said that was my problem, some people go too thick and the oil doesnt get where its supposed to be by the time the motor starts, and then they go thinner to compensate. so he said its too thin and does the same thing, runs out. so thats why i use 10w30, no clanging/rattling noise at all.
in a nutshell.
i ordered my truck from ford in the summer, there was a slight delay and to compensate i got 3 free oil changes from the dealer. once winter hit and it got really cold like it always does in canada i go to start it up in the morning and i hear a clanging/rattling noise like keys or something. i ask my old man what was going on he said it seemed like the oil was running out of the,...block? lol im still fairly new so bear with me
. anyway he asked what weight it was i said 5w20. he said that was my problem, some people go too thick and the oil doesnt get where its supposed to be by the time the motor starts, and then they go thinner to compensate. so he said its too thin and does the same thing, runs out. so thats why i use 10w30, no clanging/rattling noise at all.
#4
08-17-2006, 10:06 AM
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Spinal
it helps thanks! also yes it does call for 5w20 but heres the reason i use 10w30.
in a nutshell.
i ordered my truck from ford in the summer, there was a slight delay and to compensate i got 3 free oil changes from the dealer. once winter hit and it got really cold like it always does in canada i go to start it up in the morning and i hear a clanging/rattling noise like keys or something. i ask my old man what was going on he said it seemed like the oil was running out of the,...block? lol im still fairly new so bear with me . anyway he asked what weight it was i said 5w20. he said that was my problem, some people go too thick and the oil doesnt get where its supposed to be by the time the motor starts, and then they go thinner to compensate. so he said its too thin and does the same thing, runs out. so thats why i use 10w30, no clanging/rattling noise at all.
in a nutshell.
i ordered my truck from ford in the summer, there was a slight delay and to compensate i got 3 free oil changes from the dealer. once winter hit and it got really cold like it always does in canada i go to start it up in the morning and i hear a clanging/rattling noise like keys or something. i ask my old man what was going on he said it seemed like the oil was running out of the,...block? lol im still fairly new so bear with me
. anyway he asked what weight it was i said 5w20. he said that was my problem, some people go too thick and the oil doesnt get where its supposed to be by the time the motor starts, and then they go thinner to compensate. so he said its too thin and does the same thing, runs out. so thats why i use 10w30, no clanging/rattling noise at all.
#6
08-17-2006, 10:45 AM
Senior Member
Well the Frams are noted for weak anti-drainback valves.
Also might want to read this thread.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...highlight=5w20
Your truck, your choice.
I happen to use the 5w20 with the MC FL-820S with no problems.
Also, if you change the rear diff fluid, don't go by the tag on the diff. Ford changed the specs on what to use. They now recommend 75w140 rather than 75w90 and if you have limited slip, you need to add the friction modifier.
Also might want to read this thread.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...highlight=5w20
Your truck, your choice.
I happen to use the 5w20 with the MC FL-820S with no problems.
Also, if you change the rear diff fluid, don't go by the tag on the diff. Ford changed the specs on what to use. They now recommend 75w140 rather than 75w90 and if you have limited slip, you need to add the friction modifier.
#7
08-17-2006, 11:49 AM
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#8
08-17-2006, 01:26 PM
Unless the rear diff fluid has been submerged in water, or has been run really hard due to lots of towing and such, the service manual says it's good for at least 100,000 miles... Not sure what that is in km's, but there you go...
I changed mine out at around 75,000 miles, just because I was going to start towing a travel trailer... Then, wouldn't you know it, 10,000 miles later, an axle seal goes out, so I have to drain out good lube and replace again!!
I used Amsoil 75/140 with a bottle of the Ford Friction Modifier. The Amsoil said it was good for LS rears all by itself, but I added the Ford stuff anyway.... Now at 162,000 miles and still towing the trailer and no problems to date (knock on wood!!)
Mitch
I changed mine out at around 75,000 miles, just because I was going to start towing a travel trailer... Then, wouldn't you know it, 10,000 miles later, an axle seal goes out, so I have to drain out good lube and replace again!!
I used Amsoil 75/140 with a bottle of the Ford Friction Modifier. The Amsoil said it was good for LS rears all by itself, but I added the Ford stuff anyway.... Now at 162,000 miles and still towing the trailer and no problems to date (knock on wood!!)
Mitch
#10
08-17-2006, 07:22 PM
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Spinal,
Try and do some research on the oil weights, I think I remember reading that our engines are designed with strict tolerances and require the correct viscosity oil to last the longest.
I use Mobil 1 5w20 and the Motorcraft FL-820s as well and have not had any troubles, even in sub-zero weather.
Try and do some research on the oil weights, I think I remember reading that our engines are designed with strict tolerances and require the correct viscosity oil to last the longest.
I use Mobil 1 5w20 and the Motorcraft FL-820s as well and have not had any troubles, even in sub-zero weather.
#11
08-17-2006, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Padron
Spinal,
Try and do some research on the oil
Try and do some research on the oil
basically what i found out was this;
vehicle manufactures back in the day used to recommend higher viscosity oils because the clearances were greater than they are today. with the reduced clearances in engines a thinner oil is preffered for cold engine startup because the motors turn over so fast the oil has to get where it has to be in a hurry. what i also found was the 5w20 oils they recommend are not synthetic and it plays a major role in oil.
i found synthetic types of oil have a much much more of a superiority over conventional oils. such as: high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low tendancy to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics. the ones i highlighted in bold are what i think matter in the correct choice in oil for the vehicle. since the oil has to get there in a hurry, a regular oil must be thin to get there, synthetics solve that problem by "sticking" to where they are placed, so the film strength and low temp flow characteristics cover that.
furthermore i found out that when the engine gets up to proper operating temperature about 100ēC all oils viscosity are about the same. and the strain on the pump and all that, i found out that it runs in oil (LOL) so it won't wear out and they're good for about 60psi. i plug my truck into the block heater when its really cold so the engine warms up as well as the oil before i start it. i guess i can use 5w30 if it gets REALLY cold but i dont think it ever will. in the end it looks like using 10w30 synthetic is just fine.
#12
08-17-2006, 09:11 PM
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Spinal
well i took your advice and i spent a few hours glued to the comp screen and i have come up with this conclusion.
basically what i found out was this;
vehicle manufactures back in the day used to recommend higher viscosity oils because the clearances were greater than they are today. with the reduced clearances in engines a thinner oil is preffered for cold engine startup because the motors turn over so fast the oil has to get where it has to be in a hurry. what i also found was the 5w20 oils they recommend are not synthetic and it plays a major role in oil.
i found synthetic types of oil have a much much more of a superiority over conventional oils. such as: high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low tendancy to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics. the ones i highlighted in bold are what i think matter in the correct choice in oil for the vehicle. since the oil has to get there in a hurry, a regular oil must be thin to get there, synthetics solve that problem by "sticking" to where they are placed, so the film strength and low temp flow characteristics cover that.
furthermore i found out that when the engine gets up to proper operating temperature about 100ēC all oils viscosity are about the same. and the strain on the pump and all that, i found out that it runs in oil (LOL) so it won't wear out and they're good for about 60psi. i plug my truck into the block heater when its really cold so the engine warms up as well as the oil before i start it. i guess i can use 5w30 if it gets REALLY cold but i dont think it ever will. in the end it looks like using 10w30 synthetic is just fine.
basically what i found out was this;
vehicle manufactures back in the day used to recommend higher viscosity oils because the clearances were greater than they are today. with the reduced clearances in engines a thinner oil is preffered for cold engine startup because the motors turn over so fast the oil has to get where it has to be in a hurry. what i also found was the 5w20 oils they recommend are not synthetic and it plays a major role in oil.
i found synthetic types of oil have a much much more of a superiority over conventional oils. such as: high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low tendancy to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics. the ones i highlighted in bold are what i think matter in the correct choice in oil for the vehicle. since the oil has to get there in a hurry, a regular oil must be thin to get there, synthetics solve that problem by "sticking" to where they are placed, so the film strength and low temp flow characteristics cover that.
furthermore i found out that when the engine gets up to proper operating temperature about 100ēC all oils viscosity are about the same. and the strain on the pump and all that, i found out that it runs in oil (LOL) so it won't wear out and they're good for about 60psi. i plug my truck into the block heater when its really cold so the engine warms up as well as the oil before i start it. i guess i can use 5w30 if it gets REALLY cold but i dont think it ever will. in the end it looks like using 10w30 synthetic is just fine.
#13
08-18-2006, 12:12 AM
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#15
08-21-2006, 10:51 AM
Thanks Narvous!
That was taken about 5 years ago, but it still shines up nice! I use Zymol on it about every six months. It also gets to 'sleep' in a a garage, so that's helping a lot too...
It's got some scratches on it now, but it's almost 10 years old with 162,000 miles on it... I should get a new pic of it now to prove it's still shines up nice!
Mitch
That was taken about 5 years ago, but it still shines up nice! I use Zymol on it about every six months. It also gets to 'sleep' in a a garage, so that's helping a lot too...
It's got some scratches on it now, but it's almost 10 years old with 162,000 miles on it... I should get a new pic of it now to prove it's still shines up nice!
Mitch