How to change driveshaft universal joints
#16
09-11-2007, 11:10 PM
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I alway index the shaft on the diff and the yokes to the shaft before disassembling it.
The best way to remove the U joint is with a blue tip wrench. when i did mine last year they were so rusted in place it was the only way i could get them apart. Cut out the cardan joint, blow through the end of the caps and then they will just about fall out.
The best way to remove the U joint is with a blue tip wrench. when i did mine last year they were so rusted in place it was the only way i could get them apart. Cut out the cardan joint, blow through the end of the caps and then they will just about fall out.
#17
09-12-2007, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by lees99f150
I alway index the shaft on the diff and the yokes to the shaft before disassembling it.
The best way to remove the U joint is with a blue tip wrench. when i did mine last year they were so rusted in place it was the only way i could get them apart. Cut out the cardan joint, blow through the end of the caps and then they will just about fall out.
The best way to remove the U joint is with a blue tip wrench. when i did mine last year they were so rusted in place it was the only way i could get them apart. Cut out the cardan joint, blow through the end of the caps and then they will just about fall out.
#18
09-12-2007, 10:54 AM
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Nice right up and pictures, chester. I'm sure this will help others. Appreciate you taking the time to provide it.
Like Steve83 suggested, grease in the caps will keep the needle bearings in place. Really helps out.
If non-greasable U-joints ARE better, I'm in for a treat. 'Cause I've got a 4X4 with over 437K miles and I've NEVER replaced the U-joints. Just grease the zerks every oil change.
Still debating on whether I'll put in greasable U-joints when/if these nons go out on the F150.
Joey
Like Steve83 suggested, grease in the caps will keep the needle bearings in place. Really helps out.
If non-greasable U-joints ARE better, I'm in for a treat. 'Cause I've got a 4X4 with over 437K miles and I've NEVER replaced the U-joints. Just grease the zerks every oil change.
Still debating on whether I'll put in greasable U-joints when/if these nons go out on the F150.
Joey
#20
10-30-2011, 06:23 PM
Just finished my u-joints today using this thread w/pics as a reference.
Used 24" cheater bar to bust loose bolts on rear-end, but everything else was froze up pretty tight. Did all the work in the driveway with a couple steel blocks. some steel pipe scrapes (instead of sockets like Haynes book shows), mini-mall and some WD-40. Took about 4 hours total time. I did lose about 45 minutes driving back to AutoZone because they gave me the wrong U-Joints. There specs for my truck show smaller size on rear and larger size on front, but my truck had the larger size on both ends.
1997 F150 x-cab, 4x4, 4.6L, 5 speed (just a basic work truck).
Pretty much factory still accept I installed a new crate motor recently (170,000 miles). Hope to do some much needed body work later this year.
Used 24" cheater bar to bust loose bolts on rear-end, but everything else was froze up pretty tight. Did all the work in the driveway with a couple steel blocks. some steel pipe scrapes (instead of sockets like Haynes book shows), mini-mall and some WD-40. Took about 4 hours total time. I did lose about 45 minutes driving back to AutoZone because they gave me the wrong U-Joints. There specs for my truck show smaller size on rear and larger size on front, but my truck had the larger size on both ends.
1997 F150 x-cab, 4x4, 4.6L, 5 speed (just a basic work truck).
Pretty much factory still accept I installed a new crate motor recently (170,000 miles). Hope to do some much needed body work later this year.