Clunk at first/ Now a rattle?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 09-09-2009 | 08:39 PM
jbrew's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 25,641
Likes: 15
From: MI
Clunk at first/ Now a rattle?

Yea I was getting a funny "Clunk" from the front end, - just when turning a little going slow, both forward and backing. Upon inspection I found a screwdriver stuck in the motor mount, -my bad, but I don't think that has anything to do with it.

Now there's a rattling every time I hit a small bump, -at all speeds. I can't find the problem. I jacked her up/ checked slop vertical and horizontal, there isn't any to speak of. Grabbed the stabilizer,shocks, -everything under there to see what's loose and can't find anything?

To make this kind of noise, something has to be almost falling apart I would think ?

Any ideas ? The rattle has to be a dead giveaway it seems like, -to someone who has had this problem before... I haven't.
 
  #2  
Old 09-10-2009 | 07:44 AM
DYNOTECH's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 5
From: Michigan

I had somewhat the same noise on my 97. I found that the stabilizer link on the passenger side was broken. To look at it it appeared fine, grabbed the stabilizer and it seemed tight. When I reached up and felt the link the head of the bolt (link) had popped off and the link was still in its normal position. It is a common issue with 97, 98's and others. Easy to fix and inexpensive.
 

Last edited by DYNOTECH; 09-10-2009 at 07:52 AM.
  #3  
Old 09-10-2009 | 08:10 AM
jbrew's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 25,641
Likes: 15
From: MI
Thanks DYNOTECH, - would this be the link your referring to ? -

 
  #4  
Old 09-10-2009 | 08:54 AM
Patman's Avatar
Global Moderator &
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 21,312
Likes: 136
From: DFW
yes thats what he's talking about

To check for play in ball joints, you need to have the suspension loaded with the full weight of the truck on it, so either use drive on ramps, or put your jack on the control arm as close to the tire as you safely can.

Checked Pitman and Idler arms yet? Any play in them at all and they need to be replaced.
 
  #5  
Old 09-10-2009 | 10:18 AM
DYNOTECH's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 5
From: Michigan

That would be the link. I know you checked the shocks already but if I recall you did just change them not too long ago and there were some minor concerns regarding their length I believe... Any possibility?
 
  #6  
Old 09-10-2009 | 10:56 AM
Patman's Avatar
Global Moderator &
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 21,312
Likes: 136
From: DFW
Originally Posted by jbrew
you have 3 trucks and dont own a proper set of jack stands?


 
  #7  
Old 09-10-2009 | 06:21 PM
jbrew's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 25,641
Likes: 15
From: MI
Originally Posted by DYNOTECH
That would be the link. I know you checked the shocks already but if I recall you did just change them not too long ago and there were some minor concerns regarding their length I believe... Any possibility?
Alright, I'll check them out. I just replaced them last winter, but I think I may have over tightened them at first for some reason - going off the wrong specs I think - But I did correct it.

The stabilizer bar bolt was stripped (Blue Circle behind cover) and I never did replace those bushings, -they looked good. Anyway, the bolt itself looked worse than the threads , so I just installed a new bolt and called it good. From what I recall, it's going to be fun retapping, I think there's a nut welded inside that crossover that's a PITA to get to...- If that's the case. I'll have to pull it apart and see.



Yea, the Bilsteins for the front were bent and to short. Ford referred me to a frame shop with the latest in laser aligning equipment. They couldn't align her perfectly until they replaced the shocks with the right length. All the had on hand was Monroe's, so that's what I'm running now.
 
  #8  
Old 09-10-2009 | 06:30 PM
jbrew's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 25,641
Likes: 15
From: MI
Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw
yes thats what he's talking about

To check for play in ball joints, you need to have the suspension loaded with the full weight of the truck on it, so either use drive on ramps, or put your jack on the control arm as close to the tire as you safely can..
I know what you saying , but how does this check the joint Patrick?
Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw
Checked Pitman and Idler arms yet? Any play in them at all and they need to be replaced.
Yes, I did that, -jacked her up and I can turn the wheels right to left by hand and watch everything working. I'll have to do this again and watch more closely for play, everything seemed tight tho. It makes a hell of noise when driving , I was looking for something more obvious at the time.
 
  #9  
Old 09-10-2009 | 06:39 PM
jbrew's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 25,641
Likes: 15
From: MI
Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw
you have 3 trucks and dont own a proper set of jack stands?


I have ONE truck now, sold the 01 and the F250 is my daughters truck.

Regulation jack stands are their in the the pic, -just hard to see. The trucks 3 or 4' in the air in that shot, -I don't have stands that tall. I did get some larger ones two weeks ago tho - 3 toner's, along with another 3ton floor jack. I can't believe all the crap floor-jacks there trying to sell nowadays, -I found me a nice one ~ she's a heavy sucker, but I can turn my truck around inside the garage with her
 
  #10  
Old 09-10-2009 | 09:29 PM
Patman's Avatar
Global Moderator &
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 21,312
Likes: 136
From: DFW
Originally Posted by jbrew
I know what you saying , but how does this check the joint Patrick?
best would be jacking up by the control arm, with suspension loaded, shove a large pry bar under the tire, and activate the suspension up and down some, and watch for any play in the ball joints. The tire should be 1-2" off the ground to be easiest effort and angle with the prybar.
 
  #11  
Old 09-10-2009 | 09:33 PM
Patman's Avatar
Global Moderator &
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 21,312
Likes: 136
From: DFW
found this video

hopefully yours arent that obviously worn out, that scares me that a vehicle in that condition is out on the same roads i drive on
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56qWDuTkva4
 
  #12  
Old 09-11-2009 | 01:41 AM
jbrew's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 25,641
Likes: 15
From: MI
Yea, I hope mine aren't that bad lol. Ford did mine the last time, I'll do them this time if needed, -I don't think their bad tho, yea, I'll check em out as you described. I just can't believe the noise somethings making under their, -I expected to see something hanging or broken for sure. I'll let you fellas know what I find.

Thanks guys
 
  #13  
Old 09-13-2009 | 07:07 PM
jbrew's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 25,641
Likes: 15
From: MI
Well it finally gave way on the e-way coming home from my brothers, heard a bang then a a dragging noise. Tapped the brakes then heard a SLAM!!!

Yep! It was the damn caliper, drivers side came loose. One of those big bolts was missing (on top) and the lower was loose as hell. Not the actual caliper, but the that piece that bolts to the hub first, -that holds everything together. Those BIG bolts that spec pretty high on torque, - I can't recall the name of the part at the moment, -just parked the truck.. Good timing, -just finished the garage last night , so I can pull it in finally

Glad I didn't loose both bolts

I should have checked it all out better, I was busy and had the garage tied up, - no longer have a shop, I'm down to a two and 1/2 garage. No good excuse really, - things could have ended worse then they did.
 

Last edited by jbrew; 09-13-2009 at 07:12 PM.
  #14  
Old 09-13-2009 | 10:07 PM
jbrew's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 25,641
Likes: 15
From: MI
So the question is , where do I get those heavy replacement bolts ? Dealership ? I'll get some tomorrow, from somewhere - First I have to figure what the dang part is called lol.

I'm drawing a blank? Brain Malfunction - I know this, but it's not coming to me..

Found it (Anchor Plate bolts) - #1, -I'll take two of those. Hope they have them in stock.



1 N805163-190 Front disc brake caliper anchor plate bolt (2 req'd)
2 2N386 Disc brake caliper bolt
(2 req'd)
3 2B296 Pin assembly (2 req'd)
4 2B292 Front disc brake caliper anchor plate
5 2078 Front brake hose
6 N808236-S36 Front brake hose bolt
7 2001 Pads
8 2B120 Disc brake caliper
9 N611171-S2 Bolt (3 req'd)
10 1125 Brake disc
11 2K005 Brake disc shield
12 3K186 Front wheel knuckle
 

Last edited by jbrew; 09-13-2009 at 10:21 PM.
  #15  
Old 09-14-2009 | 02:06 PM
DYNOTECH's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 5
From: Michigan

Yep about $5.00 at the dealership only. They have loctite on them. I know because I had one fall out last winter at 11:00 pm during a snowsrtorm. Mine was the passenger side bottom bolt. I heard a noise while driving and thought I must of hit a large rock whatever. Then as I hit my brakes to stop at a light I heard a hell of a noise at the right front and my tire blew out. Because the bottom bolt fell out the caliper flipped up when the brakes were applied and the caliper lodged against the inside of my aluminum rim. The end of the caliper broke through the rim allowing all the air to escape (hole the size of a golf ball). Pulled over dark as hell and snowing like crazy no one around. My stuff never breaks at noon on a nice day... Changed the tire when stuck a piece of coat hanger through the bolt hole to keep the caliper from flipping up again and drove home. Cost me $65.00 for a used rim and $ 4.00 something for the replacement bolt. Glad you found the problem could have been worse. Take care.
 

Last edited by DYNOTECH; 09-14-2009 at 02:14 PM.


Quick Reply: Clunk at first/ Now a rattle?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:32 PM.