I think I have u joints going out. I hear quite a "squeak, squeak, squeak" when backing up, don't hear it in drive. Heard a wierd rapid clicking noise off and on yesterday, none today. I couldn't get the rear driveshaft to wiggle, but there may be a little play in the front.
What should I expect for a bill for u joint replacement?

 

If the squeak is proportional to the speed of the truck then, it does sound like U-joints. If you get a good mechanic who wont rip you off I would estimate a few hundred bucks. maybe $50 in parts, the job should take a reputable guy a couple hours and ~$75/hr. I would say $300 out the door just cause no matter what you do it will take them too long.

 

they are super easy to do by yourself, just make sure you dont drop a needle bearing down inside the cap when you install them.

Just youtube U joint replacement.


Depending on if you how many U joints you have, they are usually like 15-20 a piece and you will need two or three, and then a decent grease gun w/ grease

 

I recently payed 180 for replaced U-joints, and a rebalance of my driveshafts as well as a coat of paint. My symptoms came in the form of irritating vibrations (out of whack driveshaft), the unbalanced driveshaft and a loose connection to the rear end killed my u joints

 

Bad u-joints from past experiences are vibrations felt related to vehicle speed, felt in the chair. You can tell too when you go underneath and twist, turn whatever the driveshaft.

If not this, check your ebrakes out. Mine made similar noises when it was screwed up.

 

Thanks guys. No vibrations, but squeaky. Going to check things out a bit more today.

 

Squeaks and clicking are very much a sign of bad u-joints. In just the way you mention, Clicks in fwd gears and squeaks in reverse.

 

Thanks for the youtube hint Patman. I should be able to handle that with a u joint press from local parts store. Way easier to use that than the "pound the *****" out of it method!

 

isnt but like 3 good taps of a hammer to pop them out, just drop some rust penetrate in it before you hit it

 

Sorry for a dumb question, but does my front driveshaft turn all the time? I'm assuming it does, so the front diff is where the infamous solenoids are at, or are they on the transfer case? I'm just trying to make sure my trouble-shooting is appropriate and accurate. What actually "kicks in" then when we go from 2wd to 4wd? Thanks, Jumpn

 

yea no need in gettin a press, just takes a good socket and hammer and a couple good whacks.

and yes i do believe the front driveshaft spins all the time

 

No the front driveshaft does not turn all the time on the 97 to 03. The front axles turn all the time the disconnect is at the diff, the solenoids are on the firewall. Only thing on the diff is a vacuum motor to push/pull a fork which engages or disengages the front diff to the drive shaft. At the same time the transfer case would put power to the driveshaft.
If your front driveshaft is turning all the time, then your diff is not being disengaged for whatever reason.

 

Going to do some reading of my Chilton's manual now since I'm home. Should understand this stuff a little more. Thanks guys!!

 

Your Cv Axles spin all the time the front shaft only spins in 4x4.. OMG dont ask me how I know (((( OK You Can ))) Had my ABS light on forever and ended up replacing axles and hub bearings .. One side I had to replace twice I got a faulty unit.. I also get the same squeak ( Low pitched when I back up ) I was thinking Maybe my back brakes.. I was told that warped rotors on the rear can cause noise and some vibration... But U Joints will cause a rumble and ticking sound... I bought a haynes manual and read the whole thing last week , I believe I would start by changing the U-Joints out , I have always used a big Clamp and a cheater pipe to with 2 pipe nipples to get mine out... I just hate to see people banging the crap out of a driveshaft it just doesn't seem right..

 

Finally got the job done last night. Working in single digits, but man it needed to be done. Rear u-joint was loose on the diff flange side, frozen on the driveshaft side. Used a press, got the caps off the yoke without too much hassle, but the the driveshaft ones were a pain!!!! Caps were kinked, pushed both sides numerous times, finally got it to fall apart enough to get it out. The u joint on the tranny side was fine, no play at all, so gonna leave well enough alone. Cost me a whole $18 dollars. By the way, it's a 12 pt 12mm bolts on the driveshaft for removal, just fyi.