aint trying to rain on nobodys parade here, just thought i'd bring some common sense to this here thread. Ski, i'd recomend you go with a quality elocker in both differentials(like these ones here that were recomended earlier in this thread http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produc...cker/index.htm ) and just learn when to use em and how they affect your vehicles handing characterstics through first hand experience.

 

Locker/limited slip discussion can be like oil discussions. Everyone has a different idea about how they work and a lot of people haven't even used them.

First, there are a couple different types of limited slips that are most common.
1) Clutch based - This is what your factory limited slip is. As time goes on, the clutch plates wear and it is less effective. They can be setup more aggressively with different springs and clutch packs. They are also generally the least effective limited slip, but cheapest and most often used by manufacturers.

2) Helical gear based / Torque sensing - This is a truetrac, torsen or quaife limited slip. They do not wear out like clutch based units, and generally have a higher bias and are more aggressive than clutch based units. They are normally more predictable, and generally will spin both tires if they are both on the ground.

In either case, a limited slip is really only a torque multiplier. As with any limited slip, the torque will STILL take the easiest path out, meaning the tire with less traction. If one tire has no torque (no traction, off the ground, etc), the limited slip cannot effectively multiply the torque and send it to the other wheel if that makes sense. You will still have one tire spinning. Of the two, the helical gear limited slips will make more traction, and applying brakes (to create friction on the tire without traction) will sometimes get the other tire turning.

I hate clutch based limited slips because they are unpredictable. One time it may spin both tires in the rain, the next time it may only spin one. Since you never know for sure, you can't anticipate how the truck is going to react.


Lockers types
1) Automatic lockers - Detroit rear locker (full carrier replacement), or lunchbox lockers (drop into open carriers) like Aussie Locker, Lock Right, etc. The Detroit and lunchbox lockers have different designs, but as the driver is concerned they pretty much operate the same. By nature, they lock both axleshafts together when a certain amount of torque is applied. When little/no torque is applied, the lockers will "ratchet" and allow different speeds between the left and right axles. When turning a corner and applying some torque, the locker will drive the slower (inside) wheel, and allow the outside wheel to spin faster as it travels the longer distance around the corner. This happens to a certain point, under heavy throttle it will stay locked and the tires will chirp/scrub slightly around a tight corner.
While some people call these lockers unpredictable, I completely disagree. With a little bit of time behind the wheel of a truck equipped with this type of locker you know exactly what to expect. I love using them on road as they provide awesome traction. Off road they do the same, but they make maneuvering very easy as they allow differential action under low torque. In snow, they will cause oversteer (like any traction diff) but it is predictable. Drifting is awesome with a rear locker in the snow! You don't have to think about anything, flip any switches, the traction is there when you need it. Negatives are slightly increased tire wear depending on driver, slight clicking sounds when making slow tight corners in parking lots.
In a front differential, these lockers are transparent until 4x4 is engaged. Even with a live axle setup, steering is not hampered as the differential does not lock with torque is not applied, at least not with the lunchbox style lockers. With 4x4 engaged and a front locker, steering is tighter but it works okay off road as long as there is slip, and they are only fully locked when you are on the throttle. Driving front and rear locked in the snow is different, but it's doable. I still would not recommend a front automatic locker if you regularly drive in snow but with the right driver it is no problem. Having said that, I won't run one up front again unless it is in a primarily offroad rig.

2) Manual lockers - ARB air locker, Eaton E locker, Ox cable locker, etc. This types of lockers are open differentials when disengaged, and are manually locked by the driver. They do not allow for any differential action when locked, so you use them only when needed. In a daily driver, you will never feel it is there unless you engage it. The downside is that on the road you are left with an open differential most of the time.

3) Hybrid limited slip / lockers - Auburn Ected. This is not a true locker. It is a clutch based limited slip when it is turned off. The clutches wear out, and need to be rebuilt, often around 50k miles. When the "locker" is engaged, it uses an electromagnet to try and hold the clutch plates together tighter, but it can still slip. It is fairly expensive, especially for something that doesn't fully lock and wears out quickly.

4) Spool or welded spider gears - A differential with welded spider gears or a spool will not allow any differential action. Both axleshafts are forced to rotate together. Generally this should only be done on offroad only rigs, or in the front axle of a rig with manual locking hubs so they can turn. In the rear diff, the tires will bark and chirp around every turn and a lot of stress is placed on the axleshafts and everything else.


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Hopefully that helps you decide if you want to change something. Most people would not like an automatic locker on a daily driver. I love them, but I did not let me my wife my truck in the snow with automatic lockers front and rear, she wouldn't know how to handle it.
A truetrac would be an improvement over the factory limited slip, but not a huge improvement. Next time try applying the brakes along with the gas and see if you can get the other tires spinning.
For most people, the manual locker makes the most sense. When they are not engaged the truck will not oversteer, it will understeer like any other open diff, like any other dumbed down American car for safety. The extra traction is only there when you need it. The Eaton E-locker gets decent reviews. The ARB is great but it is expensive when you add in the compressor and everything.

On my truck, I'm planning to install a detroit rear locker, with an eaton e-locker up front.

 

here's what I did

 

I'm a newbie, have had lots of trucks in the past, looking at buying a new ford 150. 2wd. A few questions. The electronic lock and limited slip are the same price. Which is the better option.? If you have the locker engaged on dry ashfault will any damage occur? Will I be engaging,/ disengaging it constantly in bad weather and poor roads( wear I do a lot of driving. The limited slip, is that basically just new wording for posi traction? How reliable is the electric lockers and will I have expensive repair bills 6 years down the road?

 

pretty good info in this thread