limited slip one side burn out
#1
#3
Outside / Inside wheel?
Pavement / Dirt / Gravels?
Snow / Ice / Dry?
Heavy Throttle / Light Throttle?
Trying to get somewhere or just spinning to spin?
Could be normal, could be that clutchs are shot. depends on what you mean above?
If both were spinning then likely the LS ws working at least somewhat, though I've seen many broadsides done with open rears too.
If just the inside rear spun a little and the outside didn't but you were accelerating good, sounds like the LS was worrking hard, but it won't last long like that.
If just the inside wheel spinning a lot and you weren't going anywhere, likely clutchs have been used up and you now have an open rear end for all practical purposes.
If I were a betting man, I'ld say your LS clutchs are either about shot, or short timers at best. They aren't all that big to fit in the rear, they aren't intended for some of what people put them through. They aren't intended to really do all their magic against fuill throttle and sharp turn burn outs. They are intended to transfer some power from a low traction tire to the tire with greater reistance, or traction to move the vehicle like when in mud or snow.
If burnouts are your deal, you need an open rear or a locker. Keep doing them with a LS, you'll soon have that open rear for all purposes.
Here are some links, study how they work, apply to whjat you were doing, and you'll know wheather "good" or "bad" I think, and you'll have gained some knowledge.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential4.htm
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential3.htm
Last edited by tbear853; 12-18-2010 at 02:13 PM.
#4
Weight transfer. The factory LS has a low bias ratio, so it's easy to overcome the clutches in a turn (inside tire very light, outside loaded due to weight transfer). More than likely, it was the inner tire spinning more. Like the bear said above, the more you do stuff like that, the faster it will wear out. You can usually get one rebuild of the unit (new clutch plates) but in a hard used LSD, you might not get a second one (wear in carrier).
The quick test for an LSD is the jack one rear wheel up (trans or t-case in neutral) and try to spin that lifted wheel. If you can spin it relatively easy, then it's really worn out and has reverted to an open diff. If it spins, but hard, it probably is OK (as good as the Ford unit is, which is pretty wimpy. The spec I have listed is that it should take a minimum of 40 lbs-ft to spin the wheel with a torque wrench from the center of the axle (on an 8.8). THis is an old spec from the '90s, so I'm not sure if it's been upgraded or altered. Last time I checked, the factory Ford Traction Lock's had a 1.8:1 bias ratio. Most aftermarket LSDs are 2.5-3:1. If you want to know more, look here:
http://www.fourwheeler.com/techartic...als/index.html
The quick test for an LSD is the jack one rear wheel up (trans or t-case in neutral) and try to spin that lifted wheel. If you can spin it relatively easy, then it's really worn out and has reverted to an open diff. If it spins, but hard, it probably is OK (as good as the Ford unit is, which is pretty wimpy. The spec I have listed is that it should take a minimum of 40 lbs-ft to spin the wheel with a torque wrench from the center of the axle (on an 8.8). THis is an old spec from the '90s, so I'm not sure if it's been upgraded or altered. Last time I checked, the factory Ford Traction Lock's had a 1.8:1 bias ratio. Most aftermarket LSDs are 2.5-3:1. If you want to know more, look here:
http://www.fourwheeler.com/techartic...als/index.html
#7