Royal Purple in the Driveline
#17
09-14-2011, 04:16 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brevard County, FL
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I have purchased RP for my truck as well and will need to add it to my tranny at some point. I have almost 174K miles on my 2001 Flareside. I have a friend that is an RP distributor. He sells a lot of RP to truckers, race teams, powerboat race teams, performance guys, hot rodders, etc. He convinced me to make the switch due to the high mileage on my truck. He is one of my best friends and would never steer me wrong. He neglected to tell me just how expensive the stuff is until I picked it up! I thought he was joking at first. He assured me it is worth it. When I talk to any gear heads I meet they agree, unless they're into Amsoil, which is another fine synthetic product.
#19
09-16-2011, 03:40 PM
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I too used RP in the diff of my 03 screw and it actually eliminated the chatter issue I had after trying to use 3 bottles of Friction Modifier before the exchange. I've driven a little over 6K miles in the last 3 months since I exchanged the fluid. No issues to date (doubt there will be either).
Here is a post of mine from another forum:
Here is a post of mine from another forum:
I exchanged my transmission fluid last night. It took about 2 hours start to finish. I thought I would share a few things since I took instruction from here.
I bought 15qts of Mercon V from Orielly's along with a can of their brake cleaner, long funnel, and a trans filter.
Got home and parked the truck in the garage and got under to look for the lines on the passenger side of the truck. I had trouble getting under the truck since I have a 2WD with running boards. I went to the front to look for the lines into the radiator.
I have the factory towing package so I have a trans cooler. The return line is the one closest to the passenger side so I thought, "Why don't I disconnect the line here?"
Well, it's a bunch easier to remove that line from the cooler and since the outlet of the cooler is pointing downward, I just let the fluid squirt out there...no hoses, clamps, clothes pins or even a second person needed.
I keep some Mobil 1 oil containers around - the 5qt kind and they are marked on the side by quart...so I used it to measure the amount of fluid that pumped out of the cooler. I would let the fluid run into a pan and then transfer the fluid into the Mobil 1 container and measure and then into an old cat litter bucket (5 gal).
After the first time I cranked the truck, I got down on a knee and watched the fluid come out of the cooler and into the pan until the flow decreased. I measured and this was exactly 4qts (1 of those qts came from the cooler itself, the other 3 came from the pan). After the first time, I got under the truck - with a jack - and changed the filter. The little yellow thingamabooper was still in there and the magnet had a nice thick coating of crude.
The oring on the filter got stuck in the valve body so that was the only issue I ran into changing the filter. I cleaned the pan and magnet with the brake cleaner and pooped in the new filter, put the pan back on and put 4 qts back into the trans using the long funnel.
I checked the fluid level with the dipstick and it read a little high. I started the truck and waited a few secs and out poured more fluid. BTW, Mercon V frekin stinks! I added 3qts after measuring the old stuff again and kept doing this until I had put all the new fluid through the trans.
I did run through the gears a couple of different times. After I buttoned everything back up I drove around the hood and checked the level when I got home. It wasn't even on the dipstick! Doh! I added a spare bottle I had - it was Castrol and I used Valvoline to do the exchange - hope it doesn't matter (can't imagine it would) - and found the level barely touched the bottom of the dipstick. I got some more fluid this morning and will make sure the level is right.
I hope this helps anyone planning to do this. It really isn't difficult to do by yourself. Thanks for all the writeups.
I exchanged the brake fluid last week and tonight I'm doing the rear diff. The rear brake lines were very slow to bleed and were very dirty. I am so glad I did this. The brake pedal is firm with about an inch of travel. I think I'll try Royal Purple 75w140 for the diff since it has the friction modifier in it. When I bought this truck last year, it had 98K miles on it. Now it sits at 126K and I have added 3 bottles of Orielly's friction modifier to the diff to fix the shudder from the LS.
Well...back to it!
I bought 15qts of Mercon V from Orielly's along with a can of their brake cleaner, long funnel, and a trans filter.
Got home and parked the truck in the garage and got under to look for the lines on the passenger side of the truck. I had trouble getting under the truck since I have a 2WD with running boards. I went to the front to look for the lines into the radiator.
I have the factory towing package so I have a trans cooler. The return line is the one closest to the passenger side so I thought, "Why don't I disconnect the line here?"
Well, it's a bunch easier to remove that line from the cooler and since the outlet of the cooler is pointing downward, I just let the fluid squirt out there...no hoses, clamps, clothes pins or even a second person needed.
I keep some Mobil 1 oil containers around - the 5qt kind and they are marked on the side by quart...so I used it to measure the amount of fluid that pumped out of the cooler. I would let the fluid run into a pan and then transfer the fluid into the Mobil 1 container and measure and then into an old cat litter bucket (5 gal).
After the first time I cranked the truck, I got down on a knee and watched the fluid come out of the cooler and into the pan until the flow decreased. I measured and this was exactly 4qts (1 of those qts came from the cooler itself, the other 3 came from the pan). After the first time, I got under the truck - with a jack - and changed the filter. The little yellow thingamabooper was still in there and the magnet had a nice thick coating of crude.
The oring on the filter got stuck in the valve body so that was the only issue I ran into changing the filter. I cleaned the pan and magnet with the brake cleaner and pooped in the new filter, put the pan back on and put 4 qts back into the trans using the long funnel.
I checked the fluid level with the dipstick and it read a little high. I started the truck and waited a few secs and out poured more fluid. BTW, Mercon V frekin stinks! I added 3qts after measuring the old stuff again and kept doing this until I had put all the new fluid through the trans.
I did run through the gears a couple of different times. After I buttoned everything back up I drove around the hood and checked the level when I got home. It wasn't even on the dipstick! Doh! I added a spare bottle I had - it was Castrol and I used Valvoline to do the exchange - hope it doesn't matter (can't imagine it would) - and found the level barely touched the bottom of the dipstick. I got some more fluid this morning and will make sure the level is right.
I hope this helps anyone planning to do this. It really isn't difficult to do by yourself. Thanks for all the writeups.
I exchanged the brake fluid last week and tonight I'm doing the rear diff. The rear brake lines were very slow to bleed and were very dirty. I am so glad I did this. The brake pedal is firm with about an inch of travel. I think I'll try Royal Purple 75w140 for the diff since it has the friction modifier in it. When I bought this truck last year, it had 98K miles on it. Now it sits at 126K and I have added 3 bottles of Orielly's friction modifier to the diff to fix the shudder from the LS.
Well...back to it!
Last edited by rch10007; 09-16-2011 at 03:44 PM.
#20
09-16-2011, 05:26 PM
#22
09-16-2011, 10:03 PM
Have you had any issues with using RP? I was just wondering. I chose RP because I had used it before in the diff and transfercase of a Chevy Trailblazer I had, and noticed small MPG gains, and the car felt "smoother." It's also cheaper than Amsoil. But then again... I guess anything would be an improvement over fluid with 60,000 miles on it.
once you tear apart a motor that has had Royal Purple used in it you'll curse any idiot who uses the crap...
I tried helping a neighbor kid figure out his rear end issues on his GTO, 4 complete rear ends later he finally listened and has been using another product with no issues
#23
09-17-2011, 03:08 AM
once you tear apart a motor that has had Royal Purple used in it you'll curse any idiot who uses the crap...
I tried helping a neighbor kid figure out his rear end issues on his GTO, 4 complete rear ends later he finally listened and has been using another product with no issues
I tried helping a neighbor kid figure out his rear end issues on his GTO, 4 complete rear ends later he finally listened and has been using another product with no issues
I would, however, never run any "boutique" oil in my engine... I prefer shorter intervals, and they just aren't cost-effective.
#25
09-19-2011, 09:32 PM
#26
09-20-2011, 09:13 AM
Ok, well everything is done, and I'm glad to report that everything still works! The fluid in the rear diff smelled terrible... like pine cones and death. The diffs and transfer case were straightforward. A 3/8 drive extension removed the plugs, and I put 2 quarts of RP in the front diff and transfer case, and 3 in the rear diff. I had to use an oil pump to refill everything... no room for a funnel. I ended up with fluid levels 1/4" below the fill plugs.
The transmission was a lot more involved as I was flushing through the factory cooler. I simply unbolted the line closest to the passenger side to let the fluid run into a marked container... started the engine and watched the stream until it wasn't consistent anymore (~4qts). With the transmission pan empty, I unbolted it without all the drama of an ATF shower. Wiped off the magnet, pan, and mating surface. I reused the old gasket, so I cleaned that, too. I also found a plastic piece in the pan as well (see last photo.) No idea what it does.
Popped in a fresh filter, reinstalled the pan, dumped 4 quarts in, and had at it... Started/killed the engine to pump out about 2 quarts at a time; replenishing with fresh oil after killing the engine. Halfway through, I cycled through the gears to move some fluid through the valves and junk. After everything, I used about 14.5qts of max ATF.
After a quick test drive, I noticed a smoother 1-2 shift and not much else. The truck still drives the same and makes the same noises. No chatter from the LSD either.
The transmission was a lot more involved as I was flushing through the factory cooler. I simply unbolted the line closest to the passenger side to let the fluid run into a marked container... started the engine and watched the stream until it wasn't consistent anymore (~4qts). With the transmission pan empty, I unbolted it without all the drama of an ATF shower. Wiped off the magnet, pan, and mating surface. I reused the old gasket, so I cleaned that, too. I also found a plastic piece in the pan as well (see last photo.) No idea what it does.
Popped in a fresh filter, reinstalled the pan, dumped 4 quarts in, and had at it... Started/killed the engine to pump out about 2 quarts at a time; replenishing with fresh oil after killing the engine. Halfway through, I cycled through the gears to move some fluid through the valves and junk. After everything, I used about 14.5qts of max ATF.
After a quick test drive, I noticed a smoother 1-2 shift and not much else. The truck still drives the same and makes the same noises. No chatter from the LSD either.
Last edited by AndersonS; 09-20-2011 at 09:31 AM.
#27
09-20-2011, 09:24 AM
