pinion seal leaking ??
#1
11-11-2011, 09:04 PM
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pinion seal leaking ??
I noticed a little drip from the bottom of the flange and then noticed the pinion nut and u joint was wet with gear oil, but theres no wet oil under were the seal is. Im getting ready to install a trac loc anyway so i guess that would be the time to install a new seal. I think i know how to install the seal, mark the flange and bolt and count the amount of turns to get the bolt off then install the seal and put the bolt back in the same spot?? Thanks for any input guys. Steven
#2
11-11-2011, 09:49 PM
Senior Member
Well, seems you have it figured out! Below is a copy of a posting of how I do it and why ... Good Luck!
Originally Posted by "Me"
Pinion Seal Replacement.
My method is to first get the truck / car parked or raised and secure where I can get under it. F-150, I'ld just back it up on my 8" ramps. Set parking brake and block front wheels .... don't need tire tracks on my shirt. Put trans in neutral, paint or punch mark driveshaft at rear yoke so it can go back same as removed, then remove driveshaft from rear axle at U-joint.
Now, I clean the exposed threads of the pinion shaft, the nut, the rear flange / yoke with wire brush if needed. Once clean, I take a sharp center punch and hammer and I punch mark ... the end of the pinion shaft ... the pinion nut ... and the yoke or flange.
I also measure the length of the threaded pinion shaft sticking out past the nut and count threads, and I write it down.
This way when time comes, I can put that yoke back on that shaft and tighten that nut back to exactly the same relationship ... and NO FURTHER. I do NOT want to compress any crush sleaves any further, I want to retain the exact same bearing clearences .... I just need a new seal wrapped around it all.
Now, I use a BFW and remove the nut and yoke and then pull the old seal and install a new seal (and if it's a lose fit inside the housing, you can use a locktite product on the outer side of the seal to fill voids but not on the lips) driving it straight in (not ****ed at an angle) ... lube it's lip ... slide yoke back on so it's punch mark is same relationship to that punch mark on the end or the shaft ... and then I slip the same nut back on with same side against yoke as it was when removed ... and apply some locktite on the threads.
I tighten it until close to original setting, then I sneak up to final setting so when I stop, the three punch marks are in the same relationship with each other and same length of shaft sticking out as when I started .... and NO FURTHER.
DO NOT GO TOO FAR.
I then .... if the nut was a loose fit, may take a punch and punch the threads of the pinion shaft in two spots just to make sure the nut doesn't loosen, though the locktite should prevent that.
But that's just my way. I've done it on my vehicles a few times over the years, even a couple police cars ... always sucessfully.
My method is to first get the truck / car parked or raised and secure where I can get under it. F-150, I'ld just back it up on my 8" ramps. Set parking brake and block front wheels .... don't need tire tracks on my shirt. Put trans in neutral, paint or punch mark driveshaft at rear yoke so it can go back same as removed, then remove driveshaft from rear axle at U-joint.
Now, I clean the exposed threads of the pinion shaft, the nut, the rear flange / yoke with wire brush if needed. Once clean, I take a sharp center punch and hammer and I punch mark ... the end of the pinion shaft ... the pinion nut ... and the yoke or flange.
I also measure the length of the threaded pinion shaft sticking out past the nut and count threads, and I write it down.
This way when time comes, I can put that yoke back on that shaft and tighten that nut back to exactly the same relationship ... and NO FURTHER. I do NOT want to compress any crush sleaves any further, I want to retain the exact same bearing clearences .... I just need a new seal wrapped around it all.
Now, I use a BFW and remove the nut and yoke and then pull the old seal and install a new seal (and if it's a lose fit inside the housing, you can use a locktite product on the outer side of the seal to fill voids but not on the lips) driving it straight in (not ****ed at an angle) ... lube it's lip ... slide yoke back on so it's punch mark is same relationship to that punch mark on the end or the shaft ... and then I slip the same nut back on with same side against yoke as it was when removed ... and apply some locktite on the threads.
I tighten it until close to original setting, then I sneak up to final setting so when I stop, the three punch marks are in the same relationship with each other and same length of shaft sticking out as when I started .... and NO FURTHER.
DO NOT GO TOO FAR.
I then .... if the nut was a loose fit, may take a punch and punch the threads of the pinion shaft in two spots just to make sure the nut doesn't loosen, though the locktite should prevent that.
But that's just my way. I've done it on my vehicles a few times over the years, even a couple police cars ... always sucessfully.
#3
11-16-2011, 07:17 PM
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#4
11-16-2011, 09:13 PM
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You see actual liquid from the pinion nut and there's none behind the flange where the seal is?
That is strange.
You know where and what you saw, but any seepage past the seal that hits the companion flange will likely be flung off or blown back on the pumpkin except when you park or stop at a light ... and if it's on top it can maybe run down the front side then maybe?
If it's just a "damp stain" you see in surface rust, I'ld say that was simply the remnants of grease or something from assembly or excess from the U-joint. I've seen "wet stains" coming from axle tubes after long periods of time and many temp cycles and it be normal as the tubes are pressed in and rely on 2 or 3 large plug welds in holes to hold them in.
That is strange.
You know where and what you saw, but any seepage past the seal that hits the companion flange will likely be flung off or blown back on the pumpkin except when you park or stop at a light ... and if it's on top it can maybe run down the front side then maybe?
If it's just a "damp stain" you see in surface rust, I'ld say that was simply the remnants of grease or something from assembly or excess from the U-joint. I've seen "wet stains" coming from axle tubes after long periods of time and many temp cycles and it be normal as the tubes are pressed in and rely on 2 or 3 large plug welds in holes to hold them in.
#5
11-17-2011, 01:20 PM
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Yea the leakage looks to be commin from the pinion nut cause there's no leakage behind the flange, it does look like there's a stain there from a previous owner may have had the seal replaced once already and I've had the truck for 6 years so I guess ill replace the seal anyway and maybe put some rtv on the flange splines to keep it from leakin around the bolt. Ill see if I can get some pics once it stops raining.
#6
11-17-2011, 02:51 PM
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What i don't understand is that its leaking from the pinion nut ??? Not around were the seal is. I may have to take a pic of it. But i got new pinion seal and 2 new axle seals for when i install my trac lock. I also got a new shinny chrome diff cover too 
thanks for your input.
thanks for your input.
#7
11-17-2011, 09:07 PM
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#8
11-18-2011, 08:57 PM
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Napa / Advance / Auto Zone / etc all have sections with sealants hanging .... you want one which is oil and water resistant and non hardening. I'm picturing a white tube with blue writing, 4" long, about 3/4" diameter. Can't think of the name, it comes as either hardening or non hardening so read the label. I've used it on fittings, T-stat housings, etc .....
#9
11-19-2011, 09:46 PM
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#11
11-23-2011, 11:58 AM
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It will work but they recommend non-hardening sealant so the yoke can be easily removed again. Silicone sealants will act like glue holding the yoke to the pinion shaft. It will come off I'm sure but it will be that much harder.