Limited slip conversion?
#1
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Bought a 2001 XLT off the lot: 4.2L, 5 speed man. trans, regular cab, short bed. It has the "19" code rear end (3.55 gears, non- limited slip). Am spoiled after driving only limited slip for the past 15 years.
Can anyone tell me what it would take (in money and expertise) to convert it to limited slip? Is this a job I can do in myself at home in my garage? Any advice? Thanks.
Can anyone tell me what it would take (in money and expertise) to convert it to limited slip? Is this a job I can do in myself at home in my garage? Any advice? Thanks.
#2
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Probably estimate $400.00 to $600.00 (U.S.) to do your conversion. Maybe a little less, if you go with something like a lock-rite (which would be very easy to install yourself and would use your existing case--try getting a Jeg's Performance catalog to price the lock-rite).
Personally, I like the Auburn Pro-series L/S. Eaton Posi is a good L/S. For 3rd. choice in L/S, you may want to price ford OEM trak-loc part# M4204F318.
If you change to a L/S, I would not advise doing open to Limited-slip conversion Yourself, unless you have mechanical expertise in that area or maybe have a close friend or relative (with gear experience) that can help you with the job.
I have literally seen thousands of dollars wasted by "do it your-selfers" who did not have the experience, expertise or tools to do the job correctly. Good Luck, Gearman (native Indy Westsider)
Personally, I like the Auburn Pro-series L/S. Eaton Posi is a good L/S. For 3rd. choice in L/S, you may want to price ford OEM trak-loc part# M4204F318.
If you change to a L/S, I would not advise doing open to Limited-slip conversion Yourself, unless you have mechanical expertise in that area or maybe have a close friend or relative (with gear experience) that can help you with the job.
I have literally seen thousands of dollars wasted by "do it your-selfers" who did not have the experience, expertise or tools to do the job correctly. Good Luck, Gearman (native Indy Westsider)
#3
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Thanks a heap for the advice.
Since I'm primarily interested in not spinning the inside tire when turning on wet pavement, I think I'll look into the Lock-Right from Jegs, as the others appear to be much heavier-duty than I really need (right?).
I'm a little confused though: is the Lock-Right a do-it-yourself job, and the Auburn / Eaton types for pros? Or are ALL of these best left to a pro?
Thanks again.
Bruce in Westfield (Carmel)
Since I'm primarily interested in not spinning the inside tire when turning on wet pavement, I think I'll look into the Lock-Right from Jegs, as the others appear to be much heavier-duty than I really need (right?).
I'm a little confused though: is the Lock-Right a do-it-yourself job, and the Auburn / Eaton types for pros? Or are ALL of these best left to a pro?
Thanks again.
Bruce in Westfield (Carmel)
Last edited by bhost; 11-30-2001 at 12:47 AM.
#4
I recently had a FMS traction lok installed in my truck. I dont really remember the price of the differential by its self, but I paied just over $400 for the complete install. I would recommend that you get it installed mainly beacuse I have herd that lining the pinion to the ring gear can be a pain in the @$$ unless you know what your doing
#5
The lock rite is a do it yourself. They are fairly harsh on the street. I'd recommend the powertrax locker instead. It's still a do it yourself project, but it worked more like one of the good limited slip units. The reason the lock rite and powertrax are do it yourself is because they don't require you to pull the carrier out of the rear end. The eaton and auburn units are a new carrier that need bearings pressed on and could mess up the gear setting if installed without great care. I didn't have problems with the last one I did, but I was careful.
I put a detroit C locker in the 8.8 on my Bronco when I destroyed the eaton unit. I just julled it all apart and kept track of the shims on each side for reassembly. There was no problems with gear wear or anything.
I've got a similar truck, and I'm planning on asking for a LS for christmas. I'll see what santa brings...I'm thinking it'll be the powertrax unit or an auburn.
Mitch
I put a detroit C locker in the 8.8 on my Bronco when I destroyed the eaton unit. I just julled it all apart and kept track of the shims on each side for reassembly. There was no problems with gear wear or anything.
I've got a similar truck, and I'm planning on asking for a LS for christmas. I'll see what santa brings...I'm thinking it'll be the powertrax unit or an auburn.
Mitch
#7
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#10
Thanks to all, you've been an immense help. Based on what I've learned from you and others, I've decided to do "the right thing" and will be installing a Powertrax Limited-Slip unit in my truck.
As an employee of Delphi Automotive Systems, Energy & Chassis division (formerly General Motor's Delco Remy generators) I'm a GM A-buyer, and qualify for a significant discount on GM vehicles, and don't even have to haggle to get it. And yet I continue to buy Ford trucks... speaks volumes, doesn't it?
W50MUST:
The Powertrax P/N for my truck (2001 XLT, 4.2L, 5sp. man. trans, 2WD, 8.8" diff., 3.55 ratio, non-limited slip) is 92-0688-3107. Look in Jegs online catalog (www.jegs.com) for other applications, or call Powertrax directly (you'll have to wade through the computerized secretary to get to tech help) at 1-800-578-1020.
As an employee of Delphi Automotive Systems, Energy & Chassis division (formerly General Motor's Delco Remy generators) I'm a GM A-buyer, and qualify for a significant discount on GM vehicles, and don't even have to haggle to get it. And yet I continue to buy Ford trucks... speaks volumes, doesn't it?
W50MUST:
The Powertrax P/N for my truck (2001 XLT, 4.2L, 5sp. man. trans, 2WD, 8.8" diff., 3.55 ratio, non-limited slip) is 92-0688-3107. Look in Jegs online catalog (www.jegs.com) for other applications, or call Powertrax directly (you'll have to wade through the computerized secretary to get to tech help) at 1-800-578-1020.