Limited Slip vs ARB Locker
#1
Limited Slip vs ARB Locker
I have read a lot of info about LS vs open diffs here lately and decided to jump in and ask a few questions of my own. I have a '91 F-150 5.0/auto 2wd XLT Lariat Reg. Cab. About 10-15 times a year I take the truck on back roads (dirt/gravel) or snowy mountains (ski resorts). I really can't justify a 4wd truck so I am looking into limited slip options:
1. How does a factory LS affect handling in normal highway driving? Any under-steer or squirrelyness?
2. I've read that LS can cause problems in icy/snowy conditions due to both rear wheels sliding out and causing loss of control. I have a lot of winter driving experience and wonder if this will be a big factor or something that a competent driver can work with.
3. I'm also considering the ARB air locker as I can switch it on and off as needed but I've read somewhere that there is a 45 minute limit on having the air compressor engaged (somthing to do with the duty cycle on the compressor). Also, does anybody have an approximate cost on install for one of these? I'll have to have a garage do it.
Thanks all for your responses and best wishes for the holidays.
DirtBee
1. How does a factory LS affect handling in normal highway driving? Any under-steer or squirrelyness?
2. I've read that LS can cause problems in icy/snowy conditions due to both rear wheels sliding out and causing loss of control. I have a lot of winter driving experience and wonder if this will be a big factor or something that a competent driver can work with.
3. I'm also considering the ARB air locker as I can switch it on and off as needed but I've read somewhere that there is a 45 minute limit on having the air compressor engaged (somthing to do with the duty cycle on the compressor). Also, does anybody have an approximate cost on install for one of these? I'll have to have a garage do it.
Thanks all for your responses and best wishes for the holidays.
DirtBee
#2
I have never had a driveability problem with a L/S diff. Everything I've owned in the last 15 years has had a L/S diff.
Only complaint with the Auburn "Pro" series in my 1979 F-150; when standing on the throttle hard, from a stand still on slippery surface, vehicle right rear jerks to the right. I have learned to over come this right hand "jerk" by getting out of the throttle for just a moment--then vehicle is hooked-up.
OEM trac-loc does not impress me at all; however, they are better than an open diff. It seems to me when OEM trac-loc gets some wear--they do not work as well.
ARB is the King, has a Royal price too. ARB's are nasty when they do fail--leave a big mess in diff. housing and sometimes diff. housing is not re-useable (espically if the diff., carrier main cap gets broken).
If your truck has an open, 8.8" diff., you may consider a powertrax or a lock-rite (something the average guy could install himself and would be as reliable as a L/S).
If you do go with a L/S: be sure to install OEM friction modifer or dana# 43161, friction modifier. Beware of cheap imitations of friction modifier.
Good luck, and Happy Holidays, Gearmanx17
Only complaint with the Auburn "Pro" series in my 1979 F-150; when standing on the throttle hard, from a stand still on slippery surface, vehicle right rear jerks to the right. I have learned to over come this right hand "jerk" by getting out of the throttle for just a moment--then vehicle is hooked-up.
OEM trac-loc does not impress me at all; however, they are better than an open diff. It seems to me when OEM trac-loc gets some wear--they do not work as well.
ARB is the King, has a Royal price too. ARB's are nasty when they do fail--leave a big mess in diff. housing and sometimes diff. housing is not re-useable (espically if the diff., carrier main cap gets broken).
If your truck has an open, 8.8" diff., you may consider a powertrax or a lock-rite (something the average guy could install himself and would be as reliable as a L/S).
If you do go with a L/S: be sure to install OEM friction modifer or dana# 43161, friction modifier. Beware of cheap imitations of friction modifier.
Good luck, and Happy Holidays, Gearmanx17
#3
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ARB is the King, has a Royal price too. ARB's are nasty when they do fail--leave a big mess in diff. housing and sometimes diff. housing is not re-useable (espically if the diff., carrier main cap gets broken).
How often have you seen this happen? An actual mechanical failure of the ARB? I do a fair bit of 'core off road, ie Rubicon & the Hammers etc. and have only heard of a few break. All in dana 44's running 38"+ tires. Axals and gears usually let go first. Now, I've SEEN at least 5 Detroits let go and they are supposed to be the king of strength next to a spool. Just wondering if you have seen many actually break, not fail at the seals, lines or air source? What diff was it? I have all my experience with 44, 60's and 9"ers. Are some of the other designs not as strong and experiencing a high rate of failure?
thanks,
ARB is the King, has a Royal price too. ARB's are nasty when they do fail--leave a big mess in diff. housing and sometimes diff. housing is not re-useable (espically if the diff., carrier main cap gets broken).
How often have you seen this happen? An actual mechanical failure of the ARB? I do a fair bit of 'core off road, ie Rubicon & the Hammers etc. and have only heard of a few break. All in dana 44's running 38"+ tires. Axals and gears usually let go first. Now, I've SEEN at least 5 Detroits let go and they are supposed to be the king of strength next to a spool. Just wondering if you have seen many actually break, not fail at the seals, lines or air source? What diff was it? I have all my experience with 44, 60's and 9"ers. Are some of the other designs not as strong and experiencing a high rate of failure?
thanks,
#4
#6
Gearmanx17,
Does your Auburn "PRO" work better then the factory limited slips?
I have the factory limited slip and am going to install 410 gears. I am looking for a better lock but don't want to have to "engage" or turn on anything like in the Air locker. I might as well do both at the same time and save a little money.
I think having twice the traction in snow is a plus...
If there is anyone out there who has 8.8 lockers they really like, drop me the name and a comment.
Thanks...
Does your Auburn "PRO" work better then the factory limited slips?
I have the factory limited slip and am going to install 410 gears. I am looking for a better lock but don't want to have to "engage" or turn on anything like in the Air locker. I might as well do both at the same time and save a little money.
I think having twice the traction in snow is a plus...
If there is anyone out there who has 8.8 lockers they really like, drop me the name and a comment.
Thanks...
#7
Wlf,
Comparing the Auburn "Pro Series", which I installed in my 1979 F-150 to the OEM track-loc removed from 1979 F-150 and OEM track-loc in our 1999 F-150--I prefer the Auburn "Pro"--hands down.
I've just acquired a 1994 ranger with 8.8"-28 spline. I am considering an Auburn "Pro-series" or Eaton Posi for the Ranger.
If you buy an Auburn, be aware of the two different price levels of the "Pro" vs the Auburn performance.
The "Pro" series carrier is supose to be heavier duty.
Comparing prices on 28-spl. Eaton-Posi v/s Auburn Pro (for the Ranger); I can save probably $75.00 if I purchase the Eaton-Posi.
Eventhough the Eaton-Posi does not have the actuating pawl mechanism (like the old OEM Eaton unit had); I still am leaning toward the Auburn unit.
I have seen Eaton, OEM L/S's with the actuating pawl fail many times.
Comparing the Auburn "Pro Series", which I installed in my 1979 F-150 to the OEM track-loc removed from 1979 F-150 and OEM track-loc in our 1999 F-150--I prefer the Auburn "Pro"--hands down.
I've just acquired a 1994 ranger with 8.8"-28 spline. I am considering an Auburn "Pro-series" or Eaton Posi for the Ranger.
If you buy an Auburn, be aware of the two different price levels of the "Pro" vs the Auburn performance.
The "Pro" series carrier is supose to be heavier duty.
Comparing prices on 28-spl. Eaton-Posi v/s Auburn Pro (for the Ranger); I can save probably $75.00 if I purchase the Eaton-Posi.
Eventhough the Eaton-Posi does not have the actuating pawl mechanism (like the old OEM Eaton unit had); I still am leaning toward the Auburn unit.
I have seen Eaton, OEM L/S's with the actuating pawl fail many times.