towing classic cougar

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  #1  
Old 11-02-1999, 02:13 PM
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Question towing classic cougar

I just put a hidden hitch on my 1997 F150 4X4 ORP and am going to be towing my 1967 Cougar on a trailer. My questions are: What drop should the drawbar be? Should it be enough so that the trailer is as level as possible or can it be inclined slightly one way or the other?
 
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Old 11-02-1999, 02:42 PM
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Keep it LEVEL. That way neither end will drag when going over bumps and dips.
Good luck
 
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Old 11-03-1999, 11:59 AM
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It depends on how high your trailer tounge is when level. Just back em up close togeter on level ground and measure. I find a 6 inch drop is right for both my trailers but you might need an 8 inch.

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97 F-150 SC Lariat, Styleside, White over Gold, 4.6L (Windsor), Automatic, 3.55 rear end, electronic 4X4, w/ every option of Lariat and ORP packages except the 17" wheels and the 4X4 decals, MODs so far: K&N air box mod, Gibson Super Truck, clear Bugflector II, Leer TSC 600 hard cover, Bridgestone Dueler OWL ATP 265/75 R-16's, TrailMaster Invader N7 shocks, Smittybilt step bars, Ford moulded mud guards, "White-white" head lamps.


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Old 11-03-1999, 03:44 PM
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I can think of all kinds of good reasons why the trailer should be level. My drawbar is a 3" drop and is reverisble, it was $30(chrome). If I had a 4x4 I would have sprung for that $70 drawbar that has 2 plates with the 4 holes that marry up. Adjustable to a wide variety of applications and really gives you a way to fine tune the leveling of a trailer.

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raoul_oba@hotmail.com (Virginia)

 
  #5  
Old 11-05-1999, 01:25 PM
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JimB,
It is the principle of leverage.

With a typical rear hitch, the ball is about 4 feet behind the rear axle. Extending the ball another foot would multiply the effective hitch weight by about 25% (or from 325# to about 400#).

More leverage = more strain.

Is there a real requirement to open the tailgate after you're hitched? Or is this a "I'd like to be able to do it" thing? If you just load your truck bed before hitching, you won't have to worry about banging the tailgate on the trailer jack. IMHO - I'd avoid the extension.

I must have my tailgate DOWN to hitch my 5th wheel but can't hitch with it down because it would hit the trailer! I back up until the hitch clears the tailgate, then close the tailgate, then back the rest of the way to hitch. Yes, I know they make tailgates that would eliminate that extra work - but I don't like their looks and I'm not towing all the time. A little care and preparation goes a long way.

BTW, are you using a Class III or Class IV hitch? How do you like the Casita? They are made near my current home.

I see you're from Utica. I grew up in Mt.Clemens and used to drive through Utica when I went to Oakland University (30+ years ago )
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1999 F-250 XLT Super Duty Crew Cab Long Bed
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[This message has been edited by J-C (edited 11-05-1999).]

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Old 11-06-1999, 12:41 AM
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Question

Next question is; what length drawbar?

I have the towing package and will be pulling a 17' travel trailer(www.casitatraveltrailers.com). The camper has an A-frame jack bolted through the coupler; all standard stuff. I know that an 8" long ball mount is too short to open the tailgate with the trailer attached. The tg hits the trailer jack. I'm wondering which ball mount to get. Reese makes a 10.5" long mount (#21175) that I can get anywhere for about $20. They also make a 13" long mount (#21241) with the same rise/drop. I would have to order it for about $40. The price is only minor factor. The trailer tongue weight is approximately 325 pounds. Does the added length of the 13" mount affect the weight and hitch leverage dynamics of towing?

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1999 XLT 4x2 SC - DOB: 7/19/99
Dark Toreador Red
4.6L, Auto, P255/70R-16 OWL, 3.55 LS, Rear Slider, Towing pkg, Pwr 40/60 Bench, RKE
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1998 Windstar
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[This message has been edited by Jimb (edited 11-05-1999).]

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Old 11-10-1999, 08:05 PM
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J-C, Thanks for the info. I still haven't decided which mount to get. I'm not sure the extra 2.5" or 5" would make a major difference. All three of these ball mounts are rated at 500/5000 pounds, well over my needs.

Wanting to open the tg with the trailer attached is definitely a "I'd like to be able to do it" thing. No real requirement, just easier access to the bed.

I have the class III hitch with the towing package.

My wife and I love the Casita. It is only about 2500 pounds fully loaded and very easy to pull. It is very unique and ets lots of looks and I get a lot of questions about it. Unfortunately, we didn't have enough opportunity to use it this summer. We drove to Dallas in July to get it and pulled it back to Michigan with the Windstar, no problems, just a looong drive. There is a very similar fiberglass trailer called Burro which is made in Escondido, but that was just too far away.

S.E. MI is OK, but it can't beat S. CA.

JB

------------------
1999 XLT 4x2 SC - DOB: 7/19/99
Dark Toreador Red
4.6L, Auto, P255/70R-16 OWL, 3.55 LS, Rear Slider, Towing pkg, Pwr 40/60 Bench, RKE
Added:
Ford drop-in Bedliner
Ziebart rustproofing
Smittybilt nerfs - textured black #FN1730-S4T
Ford molded splash guards

1998 Windstar
1993 Taurus

 
  #8  
Old 11-12-1999, 11:19 AM
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Cool

Jim,
I would be afraid to extend a Class III hitch. They are a lot lighter duty than a Class IV hitch. In fact, for those with large campers that want to tow, a Class V hitch is available. It's purpose is to handle the same load as a Class IV - but with an extension to clear the camper.
Perhaps you should consider upgrading to a Class IV before adding the extension.
I once had a hitch break. Fortunately, I was going slow enough that no major damage occured. You cannot have a hitch that is too strong. You can break a hitch that is rated for your load. Be careful. Enjoy the Cassita.
 



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