are all 9" rearends created equal?
#1
#2
donate54,
i don't know if it will fit, or not. only way to tell is to measure it out. i would think it should be close. you will have to change out the yoke and re-weld the spring pads and other basic things if the length is ok. i hope it works for you. the 9" is a great rear-end. tons of gears and lockers, and if i remember correctly they are priced right for the 9". i have had many of these in cars and trucks and they are bullet-proof. btw, the 9" has the third member that drops out, one of the easiest ever to change gears on. good luck, Rich
i don't know if it will fit, or not. only way to tell is to measure it out. i would think it should be close. you will have to change out the yoke and re-weld the spring pads and other basic things if the length is ok. i hope it works for you. the 9" is a great rear-end. tons of gears and lockers, and if i remember correctly they are priced right for the 9". i have had many of these in cars and trucks and they are bullet-proof. btw, the 9" has the third member that drops out, one of the easiest ever to change gears on. good luck, Rich
#3
9" Ford is one of the best diff's. ever produced; however, it is not compatible with anti-lock brake systems. No way to install the tone ring on the ring gear. The tone ring picks-up the electromagnetic signal which communicates with the vehicle onboard computer.
When switching out a 8.8" to 9"--you will have to lengthen your driveshaft too. 9" pinion centerline sits lower in the chassis than 8.8".
Driveline angularity would have to be changed for a 9" to work.
When switching out a 8.8" to 9"--you will have to lengthen your driveshaft too. 9" pinion centerline sits lower in the chassis than 8.8".
Driveline angularity would have to be changed for a 9" to work.
#4
Donate54, Sorry for not reading your post exactly! You should be able to take a 9" center section out of a 1967 Fairlane, Galaxie, Torino, etc. and install it into a 1963 to 1979 F-100.
Watch out for different pinion yokes--ford used many different u-joint sizes at diff. yoke (eg. 1310, 1330, 1330 ford "special" and S55 saginaw). I have only found (2) different height yokes (which would effect you driveshaft length).
Many times, if Your old yoke and replacment diff. has different cap size (diameter) and distance across u-joint, You should be able to take your driveshaft to a qualified Dana Jobber and get a conversion u-joint that will make you change work for you. Remember check the height of the yokes--they must be the same, in order to prevent a driveshaft lenght change or catastrophic driveline failure after switching diff's.
Only other thing to watch-out for on 9" ford conversions: axle splines. All older cars should be 28 spline. All F-100's (that have never been changed) should be 28 spline. F-150's should all be 31 spline. Check axle splines and verify they are the same before switching out any 9" diff. center section.
Watch out for different pinion yokes--ford used many different u-joint sizes at diff. yoke (eg. 1310, 1330, 1330 ford "special" and S55 saginaw). I have only found (2) different height yokes (which would effect you driveshaft length).
Many times, if Your old yoke and replacment diff. has different cap size (diameter) and distance across u-joint, You should be able to take your driveshaft to a qualified Dana Jobber and get a conversion u-joint that will make you change work for you. Remember check the height of the yokes--they must be the same, in order to prevent a driveshaft lenght change or catastrophic driveline failure after switching diff's.
Only other thing to watch-out for on 9" ford conversions: axle splines. All older cars should be 28 spline. All F-100's (that have never been changed) should be 28 spline. F-150's should all be 31 spline. Check axle splines and verify they are the same before switching out any 9" diff. center section.