Short term update Powertrax unit and 4.30 gears
#1
04-07-2002, 06:46 PM
Short term update Powertrax unit and 4.30 gears
This may be a little lengthy but some have asked.
First the Powertrax unit:
I like it but you do have to get use to it. The only problem is it can be a little jerky when taking off from a stop into a turn. This only happens under pritty good throttle or when the road is wet and results from the power wheel loosing traction and LOCKING with the outside wheel (which is what the unit is suppose to do). All other times you don't know its there. There is NO klunking or ratcheting of the unit. While driving normally thru turns it is like an LS unit. I have yet to use it in snow or off road so I can't talk to that. I don't know of any other unit that works as well so I can't give an alternative. I can tell you from a light It really lets you blast out with both wheels turning.
Now for the 4.30 gears.
I got my Autometer tach installed and can give you the following rpms at speed. This is for the 4.6L with 4R70W AOD trans in OD and TQ locked.
speed rpm
50 1600
55 1760
60 1920
65 2080
70 2240
75 2400
I really like these gears and I continue to get BETTER milage then I did with my 3.55's. I can't tell you why but I have corrected the speedometer and verified its acuracy.
The gears give a slight harmonic sound at 40-50mph when at part throttle and the same at 75-80mph. We have tried to adjust it out but it seems to be more in the drive shaft then the rear. We put it up on a lift and spun the tires to 75mph. Could not hear much noise in the rear with a scope but can hear it comming thru the drive shaft. It seems the hollow drive shaft amplifies the sound.?? I don't know what to tell you. Its not bad but I sure would like to get rid of it. Any suggestions are welcome.
Over all I am quite pleased with the total package and would recomend it to anyone wanting the performance. Like any performance modification, there is some give and take but MUCH MORE TAKE THEN GIVE.
MORE TO COME!!!
First the Powertrax unit:
I like it but you do have to get use to it. The only problem is it can be a little jerky when taking off from a stop into a turn. This only happens under pritty good throttle or when the road is wet and results from the power wheel loosing traction and LOCKING with the outside wheel (which is what the unit is suppose to do). All other times you don't know its there. There is NO klunking or ratcheting of the unit. While driving normally thru turns it is like an LS unit. I have yet to use it in snow or off road so I can't talk to that. I don't know of any other unit that works as well so I can't give an alternative. I can tell you from a light It really lets you blast out with both wheels turning.
Now for the 4.30 gears.
I got my Autometer tach installed and can give you the following rpms at speed. This is for the 4.6L with 4R70W AOD trans in OD and TQ locked.
speed rpm
50 1600
55 1760
60 1920
65 2080
70 2240
75 2400
I really like these gears and I continue to get BETTER milage then I did with my 3.55's. I can't tell you why but I have corrected the speedometer and verified its acuracy.
The gears give a slight harmonic sound at 40-50mph when at part throttle and the same at 75-80mph. We have tried to adjust it out but it seems to be more in the drive shaft then the rear. We put it up on a lift and spun the tires to 75mph. Could not hear much noise in the rear with a scope but can hear it comming thru the drive shaft. It seems the hollow drive shaft amplifies the sound.?? I don't know what to tell you. Its not bad but I sure would like to get rid of it. Any suggestions are welcome.
Over all I am quite pleased with the total package and would recomend it to anyone wanting the performance. Like any performance modification, there is some give and take but MUCH MORE TAKE THEN GIVE.
MORE TO COME!!!
#2
04-07-2002, 09:17 PM
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To avoid some of the noise that you are hearing, You might want to remove your driveshaft and take it to a local D/S shop and have them cut-out one yoke & install cardboard.
The cardboard will not remove the noise; however, it will make less noise transmit to the cab. Be sure to have your D/S re-balanced.
If Your D/S is aluminum, you probably will have difficulty finding a shop that is set-up to weld aluminum d/s's.
The cardboard will not remove the noise; however, it will make less noise transmit to the cab. Be sure to have your D/S re-balanced.
If Your D/S is aluminum, you probably will have difficulty finding a shop that is set-up to weld aluminum d/s's.
#3
04-07-2002, 10:05 PM
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04-07-2002, 10:58 PM
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I'm having my Powertrax No-Slip installed May 2nd. Thats the first Four Wheel Parts Wholesalers could get me in. I am also having them install 4.11 gears in the front and rear. Will be a big difference from my 3.05 gears. I'm psyked. So what all is involved with adjusting the speedometer and how hard is a tach to install? I know with my 4.11s my RPMs will be running a little high on the highway with 31"s
#5
04-07-2002, 11:43 PM
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WLF,
Thanks for the update. I am one of the people that asked you to post back with your likes/dislikes. The powertrax locker you have sounds more streetable than the one I used to have. The talk is that they have definitely improved this product. Thanks for taking time to give your thoughts. After hearing your report I'm considering going with 4.56's along with the locker. Good luck, Rich.
Thanks for the update. I am one of the people that asked you to post back with your likes/dislikes. The powertrax locker you have sounds more streetable than the one I used to have. The talk is that they have definitely improved this product. Thanks for taking time to give your thoughts. After hearing your report I'm considering going with 4.56's along with the locker. Good luck, Rich.
#6
04-08-2002, 08:19 AM
UrbanCowboy,
On my model year (1997-1998) adjustment of the speedometer is simply removing the drive gear and putting in a new one with more teeth. I have approx 31 inch tires and so needed the highest gear available (23 tooth thru Mustangs Unlimited). The gear is very easy to install and there are some recent posts where fellow F150ers gave me valuable advise.
If your tires are about the same as mine then you will probably need the 21 tooth available thru any Ford dealer. 1999 and later require a reburn of the computer program.
As for the Autotech tach, the install is simple for my truck. The hardest part is finding the correct wire to connect to. I had to pull the wire harness off the computer and count to the 48 pin (white with red stripe wire). The green wire from the tach goes to that wire and the rest of the install was pritty strait forward. Worked right the first time. The hardest part is finding a place to put the tach. I have the 3.5 inch and mounted it to the steering column left of the speedometer. The model I have allows adjustment of the dial so it can be mounted at any angle (i.e. 10 o'clock, 2 o'clock, ect.). Mine is mounted at 10 o'clock just clear of the signal stick in its uppermost position. I recomend the smaller 2 1/4 inch as this will allow more options for install.
Have fun!!!
On my model year (1997-1998) adjustment of the speedometer is simply removing the drive gear and putting in a new one with more teeth. I have approx 31 inch tires and so needed the highest gear available (23 tooth thru Mustangs Unlimited). The gear is very easy to install and there are some recent posts where fellow F150ers gave me valuable advise.
If your tires are about the same as mine then you will probably need the 21 tooth available thru any Ford dealer. 1999 and later require a reburn of the computer program.
As for the Autotech tach, the install is simple for my truck. The hardest part is finding the correct wire to connect to. I had to pull the wire harness off the computer and count to the 48 pin (white with red stripe wire). The green wire from the tach goes to that wire and the rest of the install was pritty strait forward. Worked right the first time. The hardest part is finding a place to put the tach. I have the 3.5 inch and mounted it to the steering column left of the speedometer. The model I have allows adjustment of the dial so it can be mounted at any angle (i.e. 10 o'clock, 2 o'clock, ect.). Mine is mounted at 10 o'clock just clear of the signal stick in its uppermost position. I recomend the smaller 2 1/4 inch as this will allow more options for install.
Have fun!!!
Last edited by WLF; 04-08-2002 at 08:22 AM.
#7
04-09-2002, 03:46 AM
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#8
04-09-2002, 02:12 PM
jayntguru,
I spoke with the guys at Randy's ring and pinion and they are sure this sound is not a problem with the ring and pinion itself. To quote them "if the sound is continious at all speeds or if it is continious when accelerating or decelerating then there may be a ring and pinion problem or an installation problem". This is a harmonic sound that is resonating with something (probably the driveshaft) and can only be heard as certain speeds.
I plan to coat the rear diff with ruberized undercoat and to undercoat the area above the driveshaft to try to keep the noise out. I may also (carefully) put some kind of coating on part of the drive shaft to try to change the harmonics.
I will let you know if anything I do works.
I spoke with the guys at Randy's ring and pinion and they are sure this sound is not a problem with the ring and pinion itself. To quote them "if the sound is continious at all speeds or if it is continious when accelerating or decelerating then there may be a ring and pinion problem or an installation problem". This is a harmonic sound that is resonating with something (probably the driveshaft) and can only be heard as certain speeds.
I plan to coat the rear diff with ruberized undercoat and to undercoat the area above the driveshaft to try to keep the noise out. I may also (carefully) put some kind of coating on part of the drive shaft to try to change the harmonics.
I will let you know if anything I do works.