I am currently running a '02 F-150, extended cab, 4x2 w/ towing package and 4.6L (with an AT).

I'm just kind of curious what the limiting factor is when determining the maximum payload that the F-150 is rated for. Is it tires, shocks/springs/leafs, brakes, frame, axel, etc..??

I'm just kind of curious because I was looking at different tires and the different load ratings that you can get with them, and it got me thinking - What would it take to upgrade the "usability" of the truck?

Thanks,
Steve

 

No one has any info on this?

 

If you look at the different tow ratings in the manual that came with your truck you'll see the only difference is the axle ratios, engines, tranny (& cooler) and gross vehicle weight of the truck itself. For instance the 4x4 will have slightly less tow rating because it weighs more compared to the 2wd truck with the same motor, tranny and rear axle ratio.

When you step up to the F250 and F350 you're talking bigger brakes, heavier frame, larger rear axle, etc that make the difference.

Legally you can't change the tow rating that is on the sticker in the door jamb, you can certainly equip your truck to tow more but as far as the cop is concerned that pulled you over - he/she is looking at your door sticker... so you're screwed. Don't think you could explain yourself out of that one unless you had a dozen fresh donuts in the truck.

If you tow past the legal tow rating you're not only not legal but you'll have a funny look on your face if the trailer brakes ever give out on a hill.

 

When it Breaks !

 

Lets just say that you are talking about staying within the listed GVW of your truck. Which, for the most part is probably 6250 lbs.

The towing package actually does not add any additional GVW. It's main purpose is to add the hitch and 7 pin plug for trailer brakes and to charge the battery. It adds some other goodies too, like a larger tranny cooler and "heavy duty" shocks (which still suck, BTW...) and a bag of relays for the fuse box.

All the items you listed as "limiting factors" are pretty much it. Whatever is the weakest link of those is your limiting piece. So, if you still have the stock "P" rated tires, then I'd say that's gonna be your weakest link. I upgraded to Load Range "C" tires and noticed a huge difference right away. All for the good. I've also added additional "helper springs". Not to be able to load more in the bed, (which I can do, but usually won't..) but to keep the thing from hitting the stops when I put #1000 in the bed. That's the max you can legally haul for the most part. I've not officially weighed my rig yet, but estimate it at ~5000 with me and fuel in it.

I'm going to get it weighed really soon, as I've just purchased a TT that has a GVW of #5000 (that's the max it can weigh). That way I'll know for sure what the combo weighs and how to load all the stuff my wife will want to load up in the thing.

Anything you "add" to the truck is only for a greater saftey margin when maxed out on the listed GVW of the vehicle. I just didn't like the kid at the Home Depot shaking his head as he set down a half pallet of bricks in my truck and it sank to the stops! Now, it only sets down 2" with the same load.

 

Mitch

I understand the fact that the towing package does not add anything that cannot be simply bolted on at a later date. And without going outside to look, I think you are correct about the 6250 GVW.

My curiousity on this topic came about from listening to my dad talk about his dump truck (13+ ton variety). He's mentioned before that he can upgrage the weakest componet on his truck, then go the state (I think) and get a new sticker showing the increased rating (please note that some owners downgrade a component so that they can get their rig(s) under 26,000 lbs - so they won't need a class A CDL).

And I was just curious if anyone around here has looked into (or knows) what the limiting factors are. Now before anyone says it, I perfectly understand that if I wanted to haul more weight then I should have gotten the 7700 option or an F-250 - I agree. But it would be nice to legally be able to get a little bit more out of the truck, especially if you've already upgraded what needs upgrading.

I saw in another thread that you had the helper springs. What kind did you get? I was thinking about adding the Hellwig Progressive LP-25 springs. Also, I've looked on tire rack at the General Grabbers (and other tires) and Tire Rack rates the load rateings in letters (like SL), any idea how that translates to the load numbers found elsewhere?

Thanks,
Steve

 

I was not aware you could do that with the state. I guess depends on the state......

I understand a bit more of what you are asking now. IMO, I'd say the weakest link is the stock tires and the stock springs. The next thing would be the axle rating. I don't recall the exact numbers, but I "think" my 9.75" is ~#5500. Could be wrong, but I think that's close......... I just noticed that you have the 4.6 motor. That means you probably have the 8.8 rear end. It'll have an even lower rating then the 9.75.........

Here's a pic of my Hellwig Springs. They are the LP-25's and I just love 'em!!



I'm not sure what a "SL" tire rating is. Could be some sort of new "speed rating"?? Anyway, for trucks, you want to look for "LT" (Light Truck) rated tires. The range is from C to E. E's are what 3/4 and 1 ton trucks require. They are rated upwards of ~#3300 each @ 80 psi (max cold). My C's are ~#2270 each @ 50psi. My next set will be D's...... Just for that extra bit of security while towing my new TT!!

 

You can probably pull alot more than you can stop. Be safe!

 

Mitch-

Where did you get your LP-25's? I saw them on truckperformance.com. And when I read about them at Hellwigs website, they mentioned that you need to purchase the mounting hardware separate. Did where-ever you purchased yours from include the mounting hardware?

Thanks,
Steve

 

Got them locally at a 4x4 shop called Central 4 wheel drive. Yeah, I've seen them in the catalogs/internet saying that you have to purchase the mounting hw separate........ Like I had the mounting hw just laying around my garage....

Anyway, the place I bought it from included the mounting kit. It was in a separate box, but the price included it, which was $150 + tax. Took me all of an hour to install. You do have to assemble the springs on the bench first, but after that, it's really easy. I didn't even have to take the wheels off.