I have a factory nav HU with a factory sub under the rear seat.I was wondering if anyone can suggest a replacement Sub(just the woofer) for the factory sub box. Or am I better off getting a whole new set up. I'm not looking to bounce quarter off my roof, Those days are over. I'm also going to swap out the rest of the speakers. I will put 6.5 components in the front and 6.5 in the back(with converter plate)
I may decide to replace the factory sub woofer amplifier. I have the wiring diagram for the sub . Does anyone know if the plus and minus wires are RCA or will I need a line converter. Thank

 

Some one any one. Please help.

 

The factory sub is an 8" with a dual voice coil, the box has only 3.5" clearence for mounting depth so if the new sub is deeper than that, you will need to put a spacer ring on to gain depth. I put a Kicker Comp VR 8" in mine with a 3/4" spacer ring under it to get the needed 4.25" clearence.



The wiring is pre out level - NOT speaker level, so no line convertor is needed for the sub. The amp turn on lead is only 5v on the factory system, so if you put in an aftermarket amp you should run the amp lead thru a relay or transistor to step it up to 12v.

The factory amp-sub combo will bump pretty good when it's not castrated by the stock HU, trust me I found out the hard way, after I spent the money on the new sub, amp, wiring kit, etc.

My suggestion, sell off the stock sub-amp combo in tact (its worth more) and the audiophile speakers then just upgrade the whole system while keeping your stock nav system. Get the metra harness kit 70-5520 and 70-5521 to put your own amps in or a L.O.C. the speaker harness adapters are 72-5600

 

Thanks for all the info. Wow, I don't know that about the sub line levels . Thought you would need line level kit. What did you use as a harness or did you solder RCA ends on? That's the sub I bought. How does it sound? Did you use an after market amp? I'm not looking to go crazy just clean up what I have so as long as I get a little more thump or just cleaner thump I should be happy. If not I will sell the factory box and get a after market box and amp. I decided to go with Boston's in the front and back . Boston Acoustics SL65 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers in the back and component Boston Acoustics SR60 in the front. If I'm not happy I will start with either 2 amps or I'd rather just get a 5 channel amp for the whole job. What do you think?

 

You can use the factory amp if you want, it's 2 ohm stable. The stock sub is a dual voice coil, 4 ohm per coil and wired up in 2 ohm from the factory so you could just plug the kicker 07CVR84 and call it a day.

I used an old kenwood PS-150 (75w RMS x 2) to power mine and I have a kenwood in dash dvd, gps hu so I ran rca's straight from the hu to the amp. If you run an aftermarket amp, run a relay to step up the voltage, connect the 5v amp turn on lead (voilet wire)to pin 86 and ground pin 85 to the black wire. Now connect pin 87 to the 12v supply (The large green wire in the sub harness) and pin 30 to the amp turn on terminal on the new amp. The brown is the rca signal + and the red is rca -

 

I have a defferent sub. It's the Kicker 07CVR82. It's 8" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils. Is that ok? So I guess I have to do some soldering for the RCA ends. The HU I have doesn't have RCA outs. Oh well. Thanks for your help.

 

You can use the 07CVR82, just not with the factory amp. What ever amp you go with, make sure it can handle a 1 ohm load, if you wire it up that way, and the sub is only rated for 200w RMS total or 100w per coil.

 

My apologies to hecklerd as I'm not trying to hijack this thread, but I've been following it closely and have couple of question for 05RedFX4 concerning this setup.

Are you saying that the 07CVR84 will work with the factory amp? Also, what did you fabricate your spacer ring out of? Thanks!

Redeye

 

Yes, it will work with the factory amp. The stocker is a single channel amp and the stock sub is a dual voice coil with each coil @ 4 ohm, it is wired up in parralell or 2 ohm from the factory. The 07CVR84 will literally just plug right in.

The spacer ring is made from 3/4" MDF available at your local audio shop. Make sure you tell them what model sub it is going under, each brand has different size hole requirements. The 07CVR84 requires a minimum cutout diameter of 7-1/16"

If you want to go back to a single coil sub, try the kicker 10CVT82. Its a shallow mount sub that needs 3-3/8" mounting depth and the stock audiophile box has 3-1/2" depth so no spacer ring is needed. The 8" cvt can hold 200w RMS on the only coil.

 

Has anyone done something similar to the 09-10 trucks with the Sony sub setup???

 

Try taking the sony sub box apart and see what your dealing with, thats what I did. while your in there, take some measurements for mounting depth and so on and then you can let everyone know what you found.

 

I looked at the stock amp and it has 4 wires coming out of it .2 wires go to one terminal on the woofer and 2 go to the other terminal. Is the amp wired internally parallel? If I return the woofer I have and get the 10CVT82 how would I wire that to the factory amp with four wires?

 

Thats strange, mine only had 2 wires. Oh well. Just get a CVR84 and plug it in.

 

[QUOTE=05RedFX4;4125521]Thats strange, mine only had 2 wires. Oh well. Just get a CVR84 and plug it in.[/QU

This is a pain. I think I might just sell the stock unit and get the 10CVT82 and a five channel amp and call it a day. Or just get the 10CVT82 and bridge the factory Amp and see if it works and if it does great if not sell the whole thing and get a new box from this guy on eBay rodneyt74 >

 

Hooked up the CVT82 to the factory amp and made a 3/4" spacer ring out of MDF and it worked perfect. I sealed up the spacer to the box with black silicone and screwed it to the box and then the woofer to the box. It sounds great .obviously not as good as it would with an aftermarket amp but it's better then it was.