'04 F-150 Lariat 5.4ltr 3V 2 wd

Drove truck 30 Mile's on interstate without any problems, End of exit ramp waiting on light to change to cross road truck started ruff idle so bad i had to put in Neutral and rev motor to keep it from dying.
After an hour of shopping truck started fine, drove 30 miles back home only to have same thing happen waitinng to exit interstate.made it home finaly but had to leave 20 minutes later. Drove 1/4 mile then trruck just shut off, would not start, cranked fine just no start.
Starter burnt up trying to get started. Acted as if it was going to start but would not.

Repairs done in order:

1. Replaced starter, Crankshaft sensor and MAF Sensor, hard reset ECM by removing Neg battery cable, turning lights on for 30 minutes. Reconnected everything, truck would crank no start.
2. Checked if fuel pump was working, it was.Checked continuity with multimeter on Fuel Pressure Sensor, had no continuity. Replaced Fuel Pressure Sensor on fuel rail with new sensor had continuity truck finally started after priming fuel 3 times, idled ruff for 10 seconds till i moved accelerator pedal which immediately killed the engine. Now showed a CamShaft Sensor code on scan tool.
3. Replace both CamShaft sensors and battery due to age and low amp's. new Fuel Pressure Sensor then showed no continuity. Replaced Fuel Pressure Sensor under warranty, reset ECM as before, truck finally started and ran ruff for about another 10 second till it died on its own. Scanned again but no code's.

Was told by part's man, he had same trouble, replaced everything on his truck that i replaced on mine. He then told me he replaced both his VVT "VCT" sensor's and his truck started and has been running fine for past 3 years.

I have not replaced the VVT "VCT" sensors yet. Should I? Does this sound as it might work? Please tell me what to do, only vehicle i have and money from low SSI check is almost gone.

Please, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Brian, I deleted the other thread you posted in V8 engines because we've found that multiple threads on the same problem can cause conflicting responses that waste your time and can cause you to spend extra money trying to follow all the different ideas. Let's keep everything in this thread and that way all responders will have the complete picture.

I don't have an answer for you but I think you've been chasing a fix with all those repairs and that's not the way to do it. Try to be patient and someone will come along with better advice than I can give you.

- Jack

 

Thank you, I am very sorry. I am just so despite to have my truck back because it is also my home here inn Tennessee.

 

Would like to help, so here are my thoughts.

First of all, replacing parts before testing most often wastes money and leads to more frustration, so what should be tested first? There are many things that could be the problem, but here are some tests to do next, if you haven't already. You can find lots of help online for doing these tests.

• Check the ground below fuse box in passenger footwell. Do same on driver's side.
• Examine the FPDM ( Fuel Pump Driver Module).
• Test fuel flow from injectors.

 

I like the FPDM idea. It's mounted over the rear axle as I recall and is a common cause of run problems in those model year trucks. You can just look at it, If it looks "cracked", or corroded with the enclosure falling apart, it probably is bad and needs to be replaced. I think this fault will cause the symptoms you are having. I believe they are not too expensive either, so replace it if it looks faulty.

- Jack