Really...is this a Ford part? Does it replace the PCV valve or does it go inline? Thanks!!!

 

while I don't know much about F150 Boosting - I do know about boost in general. Fuel Pressure? Good gauge. EGT - Great gauge. I believe an Exhaust Gas Temp gauge will do a better job of telling you 'easy, speed-racer, things are getting 'lean' than an A/F would.



As mentioned, tap your Boost gauge off ANY place or T into an existing vac. line. If you use an FMU I'd suggest 'not' tapping into that one - as you don't wanna play with your fuel pressure.

- darin

 

Got two EV68C's on order. Do they replace the existing ones? Thanks for the advice dmp, I'll likely do boost first, then EGT and FP on down the line. Think I might try to port & polish my TB and elbow this weekend. One thing at a time I guess.

 

I'd argue your boost set up isn't complete with out at least one of those two...preferably both... But good luck, and post up the results!

 

Wow...I guess my PCV valves already came in. He said they are plastic with metal inside and come with a cap so you can run two lines off it if you wanted. He did say it was a 70's style part number. Any idea what makes them so much better than stock? Would there be a problem running them NA till I get the blower? Are these also suppose to keep the oil from entering the TB / intake tract? The "L" guys should be all over this huh? You should post your results on their forum too.

 

EGT gauges are more appropriate for diesels. The gas equivalent to this, from an importance point of view, is an air/fuel ratio gauge.

Diesels love to get lean, this doesn't hurt the engine. But burning fuel causes the EGTs to climb, and this can hurt the engine.

Boosted gas engines go lean and you burn holes in pistons. But you don't really need to watch EGTs so long as the A/F ratio is OK.

 

...but A/F gauges only tell you what's going on a WOT - and then it's vague. EGTs show real-time, constant conditions; the heat of your combustion chambers, indirectly...in that aspect, they provide 'better' data in terms of 'keeping your engine safe' than the standard, jiggly, oscillating A/F Gauges.

 

But pretty much every modded diesel gets an EGT gauge because it's relavent.

I've never seen a EGT gauge on any boosted gas car. Doesn't really matter so long as your AF ratio is correct.

If you connect to the downstream O2 sensor it's not as jiggly and is much easier to read. And it should be accurate at all throttle positions.

 

Here's the relavence:
A diesel will continue to make power so long as you can keep dumping more fuel into the combustion chamber. But you eventually get too-high EGT readings because more fuel = higher EGTs. This will destroy a diesel engine.

A gasoline engine needs a precise AF ratio to make peak power. Simply dumping more fuel into the combustion chamber will increase EGT but the engine will make less power. So nobody is ever going to run their gas engine so rich that EGTs get too high, as power will have fallen off long before this happens.

 

EVERY seriously-boosted car i've seen used EGT gauges....Unless you're talking a specific wide-band A/F gauge, 95% of boosted people buy the autometer which attaches off the O2 sensor. I agree, a good wide-band A/F is usefull..

 

Jackal, I posted the wrong pcv number it is EV98 yes it is a motorcraft pcv valve if it has a letter after the EV98 it is an updated part. This pcv valve is a direct fit replacement for my 2001 f150 4.6 I just pulled the old one out of the valve cover gromit pulled the valve from the hose and reinstalled.
How I stumbled on to it I was looking on the vorteck websight when looking for an aftercooler and noticed they supplied a special pcv valve, so when I kept having all this oil over my valve cover and in the vent hose I removed the pcv to check it. I removed it and shook it then i blew in the hose end and it did not seal off, I had checked hundreds of valves in my life and never remembered one that you could blow back through but when I looked closer it is designed that way it has a wave washer in it so it can't seat, maybe this is for a fail safe that it can never get stuck.
At that point I wnt to a box of new old pcv valves that I had in a cabinate and found the first one that fit both ends and sealed when you blow into it. I installed it and checked to see ig it would affect the idle in any way, and it was just fine, and as I say no more oil out the breather or in the hoses.
When I had my tune done I installed an open breather instead of the oilcap this is what I mean by breather. After a short time oil would be blown over the valve cover and even some on the side of the battery.
I believe WLF did the same and has had good results also.

 

Well, I'm stuck with the other one's, but they were only $4 a pop so no biggie. However, he said that EV98 wasn't a good part number because it won't reverse lookup. He has to know the full number or at least the intended application before he can order the right ones. I looked under the hood at lunch and I only have one PCV valve, on the pass. side. The driver's side hooks up to the intake. I assume this is how it works with the Procharger as well. Won't I need to install one on the driver's side when I install the Procharger? Why no driver's side PCV from the factory? Is this mod suppose to keep oil out of the intake tract / IC / TB? Thanks man.

So the A/F guage just hooks up to an O2 sensor? That sounds easy enough...how about a fuel pressure guage? Any idea how much I should expect my MPG's to drop in a 4.6L 4x4 with 3:55's?

 

Brake booster check valve? Is this a generic part? Inline with the PCV or replaces it? Do you install one inline to the blower inlet as well or are we just talking about the pass. side? Sorry for all the questions, I just want to know all about it. I'd prefer to just get the correct PCV valves if you can find a full part number though. Thanks for your time guys.

 

This discussion may be a little premature, in that you are still in the "deciding mode" however, if you have 20 minutes and like a good flame war, read this thread! It has a lot of really GREAT info, as well as lots of disagreement.
Clicky Clicky!

 

The A/F gauge hooks up to the 02 sensor signal wire. I don't know which on your engine. I hooked to the front and rear through a toggle switch. The rear will give you a more or less "average" reading, while the front will cycle rapidly. During heavy boost, you must see the front pull a full rich signal or you are too lean. Unfortunately, it is not accurate enough to tell you if it is "optimal" for full power. You can have it modified by GadgetSeller to read in the optimum range for about $30.

Again, the fuel pressure gauge has an electronic sender that mount on the Schrader valve fitting on the top of the fuel rail on the passenger side. You will want to get the Ford adapter.

Your mileage loss will be up to your right foot