check the valve that you purchased it may work fine blow through it if it has a positive seal and fits the hose and cover it will work the only differance it may flow a differant rate. I am not sure of the ev98 motorcraft application but I would think that it will be a mid 70's to mid 80's truck v8 360 or 390 I have the same one on my 69 428 cobrajet but who know's if it is actualy for that application. Get the parts man to get out some of the old valves an compare them. That EV98 is stamped right on the valve all motorcraft Pcv valves start with EV emission Valve then the part number.

 

Alright, I found the right one:

EV-98-B

Ford p/n: D9ZZ-6A666-A

I think it's from an '89 Mustang 5.0

However, after reading tons of threads on the various Lightning forums, it seems that the factory PCV valves were designed to flow both ways. I guess under vaccum, clean metered air is drawn into the duct that attaches to the intake boot then to the driver's side valve cover, then it comes up and out the passenger side into the upper intake.

However, under boost, the opposite happens and the passenger side becomes pressurized, and the oil mist is blown in to the intake boot through the driver's side tube.

What I don't understand is why is it that the driver's side doesn't become pressurized by boost since the tube is wide open? Seems that once you add boost, you need the bi-directional PCV flow, making it a useless system pretty much. (Oil is blown all over hell from both sides.) I also don't understand why the Lightning guys block off the hole in the upper intake coming from the pass. side PCV valve. Wouldn't that disable scavenging all together?

 

BTW, thanks for the link desparado, I just clicked it and it covered much of what I had been reading on some other Lightning forum. How does this all work out with the Procharger system as opposed to the Lightning setup? How do other manufacturers address this issue in blown vehicles? How do the Roush and Saleen Mustangs work?

 

You can easily replace the pulley bearings with Part Number 203VV OR 203FF. They're about $8ea from O'Reilly. I keep spares in the garage.

Just pop the snap ring out of the pulley and push the bearings out. Pop the new ones in and replace the snap ring. Pretty simple.

 

Good info man, thanks. Any idea what the diff. is between the VV and FF? Anyone have and idea about the PCV issue?

 

Do a search in the Lightning forums. There's a guy on ebay who sells a PCV "kit" that replaces your existing valve. If memory serves me correct, it's approx 20 bucks. I bought one for my truck and it works great. Absoultely no oil in the TB or intake ducting. Basically it's a replacement valve along with some adapters to tie it in. However, Jordan not Mike's kit looks pretty sweet as well.

 

Are you talking about the Swanson Performance PCV kit? If so, it's the same PCV valve we are talking about and a dime sized piece to block off the inlet to the upper intake plenum. I don't like that idea, and I think it's only good for the "L". Their PCV issue may be a little different since they use a roots setup. I want a solution for a centrifugal application.

 

Dude, you rock

Thanks for the tip!

 

I've got the roots (M90) and it works well for me, not sure about the centrifugals. However, I thought I read on Crash's site some time ago that some Procharger guys were using this as well.

 

Thanks for your input man, I'll keep it in mind, but I worry about the long term effects on my engine as well as oil ingestion. I think the PCV valve swap will help on the pass. side, but I wonder how important it is to be able to back-flow, and I don't know jack about how the driver's side will work with the Procharger installed. I'm sure someone will come along with the answers sooner or later.

 

Anyone have anything else to add to the PCV issue?

 

Thanks Crash, I got my EV98 PCV valve...should I just toss it on there (in place of stock) and call her good? Even while NA?

 

all i can say is this, i have done the bolt on thing with other vehicles i have owned. the supercrew i have now has a used ebay vortech that has been on for over 2 years with zero issues (if it did i would tell you, my pocket book overrides my ego) . i dropped 1.5 seconds of my 1/4 mile with no other modifications. i dont think that for the money you could drop that much time with bolt ons. worse case your s/c needs to be rebuilt, call and get a price on a rebuild. lets say the s/c craps out in the middle of nowhere, disconnect the belt and drive home.

if you think a chip and pulleys , electric fans and an exhaust system will get you the gains of a s/c then i think you are in for a disappointment.

do yourself and everyone a favor and get a base dyno pull or a base 1/4 mile run and do a before and after, way to many people that claim the big gains dont tell you the whole story (how much $$ and all the extra parts) and are just interested in pumping up their ego. The a$$ o- meter lies.

the exhaust, fans and chip (with a reburn) will be a nice complement to a s/c if you deside to do that latter.

 

Good points, Brotherdave.

I wasted so much dough on mods that "I think made my truck faster" but then the Taurus in the lane next to me would smoke me.

Should have bought the used blower way sooner. I would not have wated money on mods that may or may not make a noticeable difference.

For example:
Exhaust: ~$400 (went to true duals after the blower for more flow, could have kept the first system but would have made less power)
Chip: ~$300
Intake: ~$250

That's $950 wasted right there. About half the cost of the used blower that I paid $2200 for.

 

Hey man, I decided that I was either going to do the s/c right, or not do it at all. The way I was going about it, basic kit Procharger, wasn't the "right" way. I didn't so much have a problem with a used kit, as I did with the fact that I couldn't afford to do the in-tank fuel pump, injectors, MAF, and custom tune. I just wasn't willing to drop $3,500 plus into it at this point. Instead I spent $1,300 and finished out my intake, e-fans, pulleys, and the custom tune. I should see about a 35 RWHP gain and if I'm lucky, slightly better fuel economy at 1/3 rd. of the cost and it's being done right. My next mod will be to Line-X the body, then I will look into having the upper intake extrude honed and port match the heads. (Suppose to be good for another 25 RWHP) I assume I will either be happy with it at that point, will have traded it towards something else, or will drop the bank on a pos. displacement blower sometime down the line, and you can bet I will be doing it the "right way". A cent. blower isn't for me in a truck that doesn't see 4,000 RPM very often.