Powerdyne Pulley

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 10-09-2006 | 10:04 PM
98Navi's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Powerdyne Pulley

OneLow and chuck, whats the diameter of your pullies? I have just swapped to a 2.5" and its creating enough boost to blow the silicone elbows apart from the intercooler piping. I can see them expanding like a ballon when I rev it up. I am ordering the new hard silicone (rubberized type) fittings to try and remedy this. Do you guys have this problem at all? I don't know what boost I am running, as the boost guage line melted on the EGR tube, plus going over 4000RPM blows the tubes apart.
 
  #2  
Old 10-10-2006 | 01:39 AM
ONELOWF's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 2
From: NEVADA
Interesting. I'm not running the Powerdyne anymore, but a 2.5" was making about 8 psi after the air/air cooler. I can't think that you are making enough boost to blow off hoses! I was seeing 11 psi with my Paxton, and never had a problem.
As I recall Chuck was at 10 psi with a 2.5", but I don't remember him having a problem. Good luck.
 
  #3  
Old 10-10-2006 | 03:43 PM
98Navi's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
I'm thinking that since I don't have a bypass online, the air is becoming hotter and forcing the silicone to heat up and expand, hence it flexing and blowing off. What was that setup you and chuck used with a BOV from napa?
 
  #4  
Old 10-11-2006 | 06:52 PM
chucks bp's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 796
Likes: 3
From: Charleroi PA
With the 2.5 pulley I am seeing 10 to 10.5 pound at 5200 I am using the Bosh bypass valve It is connected at the outlet side of the after-cooler on the underside of the elbow and goes back to the intake elbow. My system works well and has had no problems, other than a bad electrical connection on the after-cooler pump wiring, through away the 3M connector and soldiered the wire and never had any other problems. My usual air-charge temps. are 10 degrees over ambient, Withe the low charge temps. the tune allows a lot of timing advance with no detonation.
 
  #5  
Old 10-12-2006 | 12:31 AM
ONELOWF's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 2
From: NEVADA
Chuck - Do you change to a Winter s/c pulley - larger?
 
  #6  
Old 10-12-2006 | 12:56 AM
Jordan not Mike's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
From: The LBC (Long Beach, CA)
Since you don't have a bypass valve, do you think that, perhaps, when you close the throttle the boost is stacking-up behind the throttle plate, blowing your IC tubes?

Without a bypass, when you close the throttle at high rpm, the pressurized air from your SC has to go somewhere. Yours is the first forced-induction setup I've ever heard of that lacks a bypass...

I mean, you aren't running that much boost with a powerdyne, yet are popping hosese that guys running high boost levels never have a problem with.

Not trying to knock your setup, just a thought. But I recall another thread (https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=255608) where you claim that you and Chuck's BP are the only guys without a bypass...and now Chuck is saying that he indeed has one.

IMHO it's not the heat.
 

Last edited by Jordan not Mike; 10-12-2006 at 01:41 AM.
  #7  
Old 10-12-2006 | 01:13 AM
ONELOWF's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 2
From: NEVADA
^^^ Good explanation. I particularly like the "perhaps" in the first line.
For fifty bucks this problem could be solved.
 
  #8  
Old 10-12-2006 | 09:02 AM
ONELOWF's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 2
From: NEVADA
Navi - Try this Bosch PN - 0 280 142 103. I'm pretty sure this is the one I am using, and have had good results to 11 psi. I know there is a newer upgraded one, but I don't see it anywhere. G luck.
 
  #9  
Old 10-12-2006 | 12:11 PM
98Navi's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
I actually said I don't THINK chuck is using one. I looked back at his pictures and see he has something there. THe guy I bought it from had never run a bypass, and had plugged the holes so I, having not ever run a blower, figured I could do the same. So you just run a line with a BOV at the end to vent into the air. I can screw with that later.

I think that whats happening with the blowing off connectors is that they are getting to hot. See, you could drive normally from here to hell and back and it wouldn't blow anything off. But after driving for a while, if you hammer the hell out of it then it blows off the connector. It did this one about a year ago, then it stopped suddenly. Now suddenly, it starts again.

Where'd you get that valve Low?
 
  #10  
Old 10-12-2006 | 02:12 PM
98Navi's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
  #11  
Old 10-12-2006 | 03:04 PM
LowFast's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
It is not the heat, the silicon conectors are high temp and are not affected by heat variations to the extent that you think. Plain and simple you need a bypass valve. And no you cannot just vent to the atmosphere, it must recirculate into the intake after the MAF, otherwise the truck will run like crap.

The bosch valves are availible at your local VW dealer and should not run you more than $50. I am actually about to upgrade the piece of crap that prochager sends in thier kit for a Bosch valve.
 
  #12  
Old 10-12-2006 | 03:07 PM
ONELOWF's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 2
From: NEVADA
Originally Posted by 98Navi
That looks like the one!
 
  #13  
Old 10-12-2006 | 05:55 PM
98Navi's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Ok, so drill into the intake pipe somewhere amongst all the crap I already have drilled in and pipe it back to just behind the maf. If that sounds right, I'll order it up.

But I still don't understand why it just all of the sudden started doing it, and its getting colder outside
 
  #14  
Old 10-12-2006 | 06:15 PM
98Navi's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Ok, in the picture below, the pipes that come apart are the fitting that is on the blower output. The two big black connectors have taken care of the intercooler piping seperating

 
  #15  
Old 10-12-2006 | 06:27 PM
ganiman's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
From: miami florida u.s.
Navi,
The bypass feed should be anywhere between the blower outlet and the i/c.The best way to feed it back into the loop is if you can direct it straight at the impeller.That black plastic housing looks like a good spot,but its hard to tell from the pic.
 


Quick Reply: Powerdyne Pulley



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:36 AM.