just wondering what size turbos would be needed for a remote setup and maybe where to get them. i like the sts setup and am thinking of making my own since they dont have a setup for a 97-03

 

have you evan talked to STS??? talk to Freddy, the "04-up Kit" will work on your 97-'03

anyway talk to freddy and don't do it unless you add the innercooler and plumb your intake back up to the engine bay to avoid sucking water

 

No I haven't talked to sts. This is a project that I am wanting to do in time so I was just trying to find out what I can

If the 04 up kit works how much modification does it need. It would be a little pointless tto buy the kit if none of the tubing would work for it. I was planning on intercooling it and I was trying to think of something else to do with the intake other than plumb it up into the engine bay

 

yeah, talk to STS so they can rape you with a price(5500?), I offered to test there system and they wanted full price, with me driving to Utah, and all i get was install, and if they blew up my truck i would get a "sorry" and a pat in the back

But to answer original question, if you want to do something like STS you can slap like a 60-1 or bigger on there and just run the pluming . the external oil pump is easy to find online. if you actually read the info on the page it tells you the pump. Make sure the turbo you buy has a restrictor valve in it, or buy a external one. Intercooler i would do Water to Air. Don't let anybody give you the BS that it's not a good daily driver system. They work better then air to air, and aren't as laggy.

 

Why wouldnt you go with a ATAAC? I mean its less work cause you dont have to plumb in for water and If your planning on running JWAC then the water is only gonna get as cool as operating temps. I would go ATAAC if I were going to do one. It just makes more sense.

 

Water to air is the most efficient system overall. With a turbo the intercooler isn't sitting on the engine and its rad will keep the water closer to ambient temps.

 

[QUOTE=JMC;3663273]Water to air is the most efficient system overall. With a turbo the intercooler isn't sitting on the engine and its rad will keep the water closer to ambient temps.[/QUOTE
How is water to air the most efficient system overall? Dont you think if it was the best way all of the highway diesel engines ie: Cummins, Detroit, CAT.... would have water cooled after coolers? And that also goes for the big 3 diesels.... I mean They are striving to produce the most efficient ways possible. I just dont believe that a JWAC is better at cooling than a ATAAC especially since the vehical is in motion almost all the time. Just my .02

 

I would suspect that the big rigs use air to air for cost savings There are less moving parts and less chance of failure. The pressure drop in a liquid to air system is less than an air to air. Liquid pulls air away from metal faster than air does.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

I would guess that the total length of pipe with a remote turbo through an air/ air intercooler would be in excess of 15'. Add the lag of a draw through maf to the pumping losses from all of the pipe, and water/air starts to look very good. I'm sure some of the lag would minimized with a blow thru maf with either type of intercooler.

 

Factory uses Air to air because a pump won't burn out like it will on water to air. water to air cost most money and has more parts to set up.

Which one works better? Take a hot frying pan and put a fan on it. Take that same pan and put it under room temp tap water. I'm pretty sure you know which will cool down faster.

Some of the race tanks for air to water can be filled with ice water which will really cool the system down at the strip.

 

^^^^ Did you say a frying pan? You're killin me.

 

Sure did haha!

The frying pan is an easy example to understand how effective water is at efficiently stripping heat away vs air. After all we are just trying to cool aluminum fins down so you get the idea which would work better as I'm sure you already do.

On my mustang with a YSi, I ran a huge custom air-air intercooler just for the sake of reliability, the car was a street machine. The last thing I wanted was to worry about a pump going out or the like.

 

I agree that your example is correct.

The problem is we're not talking about frying pans, or room temp tap water.
Were talking about heat exchangers and water that gets progressively hotter the longer it cools until it is heat soaked.
So, for the example, take the accumulated previously air temp water that has been heated by the frying pan and try to cool with it again. The effective cooling continues to diminish, while the air from the fan continues at the same temp as when it started.

 

but your forgetting about the Heat Exchanger, it works on the same concept as a radiator. it cools the water. water will never reach boiling point, and if it ever did, a air to air would be heat soaked to death and basically be blowing by hotter air then a water to air.

so take your frying pan and keep blowing it with a fan. my pan will be cooled down by water that passed threw the a cooler and cycling its self with cooler water by the second.

 

No, I did not forget about the heat exchanger, but you are overstating what you believe to be the efficiency of the HE. Once all of that fluid gets hot, it does not cool quickly or immediately as you suggest. On the other hand, the air/air is using the ambient air to cool. On an 80* day for example, the cooling process is always starting at 80* over and over again.