Here is an article I copied

The idea behind a higher stall converter is to allow the engine to rev more freely up to the point where the powerband begins, and therefore, enable it accelerate from a stop under more power.

In simple terms, for best performance, the stall speed should be raised at least to the point where the torque curve is heading for it's peak. As a rule of thumb, the stall speed should be set to match the rpm at which the engine is making at least 80% of it's peak torque for a street driven vehicle.

As you can imagine, a vehicle that can accelerate from a stop with 80% of its peak torque will easily outperform the same vehicle that can only launch at 50% of its available torque.

 

Also, I don't have launch the truck at 3,000. It moves before then, it just allows me hold the break and launch that high if I wanted.

Lets face it, our trucks even being supercharged are pigs out the hole.

 

yeah thats basically what i was saying, but your problem is that launching at an rpm with that much torque will break those tires loose and the time that you spend spinning will totally defeat the benefits of all that power. at a 3000 rpm launch you will spin for such a long time that you wont be accelerating any faster than me who say launches at 1500 rpm and gains traction much quicker. the only way to solve this problem is to make your truck have excellent dry pavement rear wheel traction, which is impossible with street tires and the shear nature of a truck, no weight in the a$$ end...

now if you were a 4x4, you may get some traction that way, but it would still be very hard on your drivetrain...

 

With my 22s on there, the truck doesn't break loose so bad with the big stall... My stock 17s are another story though haha.

I figure some drag radials will do the trick and BTW, I love the way your truck looks. Reminds me of mine

 

i totally agree that launching in the power band would make a huge difference in the 1/4 mile and 0-60 times compared to lauching at 1000 rpm where there is as much power. unfortunately, i spin even if i dont launch at all (just mash the pedal at GO)

that high stall TC can make a huge difference, but now you need to do mods to help traction. maybe if you can get by on 8 psi with the stock fuel system, you can use the money you save toward a set of lightweight wheels and some drag radials, and some traction bars and driveshaft loop. heck those mods may give you more of an increase in speed than the +2 psi

of course these mods only help with launching at the strip, the added boost will give better acceleration at any time

 

hehe thanks. yeah ive tried a few times with my 22's and with my 17's and the 17's are ridiculous. but even despite how much they can spin, i ran 3 tenths quicker with the 17's. 22's really hurt overall acceleration. a set of real wide 17's with some drag radials would be sick. i would do it if i had the $$ but i cant see spending $700+ just to go faster at the strip right now...

 

Well 3000 stall is a bit high for the truck, I would do like 2500 or a little lower. With traction it can make a huge difference launching that way.

Myself with 18's I cant do even half throttle without badly spinning.

Drag radials will be ordered soon!

 

Stall speed is dependent on torque output. If the stall speed of 3,000 is on a naturally aspirated application, it's likely to stall higher with a blown engine.

 

Windsor, your right... Mine is a 3000 nitrous converter which are always a little lower... Probably more like a true 2800.

I don't have a doubt in my mind that a set of drag radials will cure any traction issues I may have. There are cars running 7s on drag radials, and I have seen some local stock suspension cars do 9s on em. They should be more than capable of holding my 13 second truck

Now I need to find someone who wants my 22s so I can put some race style wheels on the truck.

Anyone running anything like that on the board?

Irons1n, those whipples make WAY more power than my Roush. If my kit wasn't so damn cheap, that's the route I would have went.

 

its a shame that it takes 22's to make our lowered trucks look good. the problems with the drag radials are:

-they only make them to fit on 18" max wheels i believe, and have a maximum overall diameter of like 27" or so max. they would look weird as your primary tires...
-they get horrible rainy weather traction, so not good for daily driving...
-im sure they have low relative treadware so youd be going through them like crazy if used on the street

the lightnings had a pretty good idea with using lightweight 18's with decent performance tires, but you still wont get nearly the traction that you would with drag radials or true slicks. real slicks would be the way to go, but unfortunately i dont think they make them for anything over a 16" wheel, which i dont think we can even fit on our trucks. maybe with some caliper shaving we could. ill tell ya a set of 16" racing wheels with some hoosiers would be killer...

i guess the problem boils down to, its hard if not impolssible to have a drag strip vehicle that performs just as well on the street. ive come to the conclusion that i will keep my 22's for daily driving. i will have the nice looks, but it will be slower on the street. i may one day invest in two more wheels with some race tires, but again its not cheap...

 

I'm running a 2500 stall and 18s nitto drag radials and have good traction as long as I warm them up first with a nice burn out.. I'm curently running 13.2 and haven't had problems so far with the shaft

 

nitto I know makes a 20inch drag radial

and the truck doesn't have to be driven everyday, I have 6 speed trans am for good gas milage hahahaha

 

wow i didnt know they made a 20"... but even so a 17 or 18 will give you much better acceleration, if your going to spend all that money on race tires, might as well go as fast as you can

and at least you have another nice car to drive around in

my only other vehicle besides my wifes toy taco is my work van which i affectionately named Jean Claude Damn Van

 

Hey smok][n, check out M&H Tires I plan to run 18's. They are basically 11.5/28. Ive talked to them and they fit on a 10" wide rim. They make them in 17s too.

Also what body kit do you have on ur truck? Front is street scene, but what is side and rear?


Whipples can make more power then any of the other blowers made for our trucks. But out of the box all I/C ones make about the same. After looking at whipples tune in my software I can honestly say the truck is about at 60% of its true potential on stock tune. They limit alot of things.

 

that looks like a good size but you would need to find 18x12 rims which could be hard, and look at those prices! the 275/45/18 size might be better as you could use a more common 18x10 rim, but they arent any wider than the 275/50/17's.

ok now with a 17x9 rim and 275/50/17's, the overall diameter is 27.8". with my 4.10 gears, i can trap in 3rd gear(drive) at 110 mph and my rpms would be at 5400 which would be about as high as i would like to go. and a 110 mph trap speed would prolly mean i was running mid to low 13's which is as fast as i ever plan on running. so that size would work for me. the only drawback is that those tires are only 10.5" wide which could be a little wider, but the wheels should be a bit lighter than 18's which would also help some. my bro-in-law used to work at a company called wheel pros and i think i can get some 17x9's for about $90 each, so id prolly be looking at around $600 for the whole setup. i think that would be the best, cheapest option IMHO

my sideskirts are made by DG Motorsports. my roll pan used to be the street scene gen 1 until i was rear ended and now i have the street scene gen 2

heres some useful link for determine best wheel and tire sizes:

http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp

www.4lo.com/4LoCalc.htm