I have the Roush supercharger and will be installing it shortly. I have a 2008 and had to upgrade the crank pulley because the later models have no bolt holes for the supercharger pulley. I also purchased Troyer's e-fans, so I set out to get part of those parts installed this weekend. I also purchased the Roush spacer kit for the OEM electric fan clutch. It's so damn hot here in Louisiana, the less time I can spend in this heat, the happier I'll be.

Everything went fine, and I installed the new lower pulley and the Metco lower pulley for the supercharger. When it came time to install the fan, I discovered I lost 2 of the retaining nuts for the fans. I put the fans together the other night and I couldn't find those 2 nuts anywhere. I have up looking for them after an hour of so of cussing and kicking myself. So I ended up installing the Roush spacer and cutting the shroud for the factory fan set-up.

My truck has the towing package and I was expecting to see a much thicker radiator when I removed the shroud. It gives me some concern that I might have two rows of cooling tubes. Ford Racing has a replacement radiator that I'm considering using in my truck when I do the install. It might be overkill, but I'd rather have too much than not enough. The e-fans will eventually go on either way, it's just not a high priority.

Anyone have any cooling problems with the stock radiator? Anyone install the Ford Racing aluminum radiator? Any install problems and is it a direct fit?

 

I am still running the stock clutch fan setup, but i have NEVER had overheating issues. I have towed a 5000 lb trailer in 95+ degrees in heavy stop an go interstate traffic, and the temp needle has never gone above the normal mark.

now i have the tow package on my truck and i do get a little concerned about tranny temps. if any sort of extra cooling was needed, i would say it would be for some kind of additional tranny cooler.

i would think a good efan setup would also leave you with no problems, and the good thing for you is that you can easly adjust the thermostat on hot days for extra safety.

all in all, i really dont think a radiator upgrade is necessary. just keep your coolant full and verify your efan function, and you should be good to go

 

I would also add some LED's so when your fans come on you know they are working.

 

good idea

 

i have had trans temp run hot, but not the radiator, i run a 180 T stat, seems to work well my motor doesn't see past 195 even after boosted runs..

 

Never a problem here. But I have the stock fan so I wouldn't know if the electric setup behaves like.

 

I smoked my stocks transmission due to heat and I NEVER pull a trailer. The tranny cooler currently is routed through the radiator on our trucks and picks up a lot of heat there. I had mine routed away from that.

 

In 2007 I had issues as well. I have the Flex-a-lite efan 270 kit, and when the temperature got around 100 F, I blew my fan fuses a couple times. Both times, my temperature gauge pegged quickly and my truck went into a safe mode. I immediately parked it and called my wife to come get me. I changed the efan controller and engine thermostat to a 180 F. That seem to have fixed my problem. My truck never got hot again. As soon as I get past my misfire issue, I'm going to move my supercharger heat exchanger out front to improve IAT.

What city are you from?

 

I put in one of the saleen radiators that one of the members on here was selling (his name escapes me now) it bolts right in but the lower radiator hose is a complete joke, I ended up going to the exhaust shop and having a pipe bent and hacking the hose up for some ends. Overall the install was fairly easy until it came time to put the lower radiator hose on.

I have also seen those radiators on sale on ebay as well.

 

I appreciate the input. I suppose I'll wait and see how things go with the stocker. This truck has a pretty substantial trans cooler. I've also added a deep aluminum pan to the transmission to increase my fluid capacity, when I installed Troyer's valve body.

GerRod, I'm in Lafayette. This week should be a hot one.

 

FYI the Lightnings come stock with a 180 thermostat. I run a 180 in the winter and a 160 in the summer. My tune is set up for that. My cylinder head temps run 185-194 all year round unless I get on it in the dunes they can get as high as 215.


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aftermarket e-fans are nothing but trouble...stick with the tried and true fan clutch settup. The gains of an e-fan are minimal anyways a fan clutch doesnt rob much if any power unless its locked.

 

I could not disagree more I saw on the dyno 14hp from just the E-fans plus you have a ton more room to work under the hood with that shroud gone if you have to change a belt it makes it super EZ and you can get to the oil filter.

 

That's when the fans aren't running. How often do the fans kick in compared to the stock clutch one? Is it the same?

I would think the drain on the alternator would be extremely high, just like the stock fan. Not sure. That's why I'm asking.

 

well they would kick on whenever thet temps reach the thermostat setting that you set. if you set the temp setting to be the same as when the stock fan comes on, they should kick on and off at the same time.

clutch fans dont use elctricity for power so there would be no real draw from the alternator. i think the stock alternator should handle efans just fine as long as you arent running an underdrive pulley or blasting a 2000 watt system, or running 20 billion KC lights at the same time

a better than stock battery would be a good idea with the efans and there are better alternators that you can buy, but all this does cost $$$. there are some gains from the efans, and matt is right, the extra space would be nice(changing my belts with the stock fan is a PITA) personally i think ill keep the stock fan for now, i have my headers now and may look at a water/meth kit and possibly a smaller pulley before i consider efans.