Fatherford change only his fuel pump with the Ford GT supercar one and ran several thousand miles pushing 450/450. Also JDM went to their double 255lph setup ($320) and ran their Saleen truck at ~ 470 hp. Neither changed fuel rails, or lines, just the pump and maybe the filter. If you're shooting for 700 hp, then you may want to change the whole system, but for 450 or less hp, I think that's overkill.

I want to change mine to the Ford GT one as well. Wish someone who has done it will chime in.

 

He hasn't built a fuel system or even changed his pump YET.He was only asking about it.

The OP changed his pump.

Phil

 

What needs to be done with these trucks and is fairly cheap is to run 2 Ford GT 310lph pumps within the stock hat. Upgrade the wiring from the pump to the top of the hat and then from the hat to the FPDM. Then have the FPDM modified by zone5performance to drive the 2 fuel pumps. Then you TIG weld a -8an bung on to the fuel hat and run new hose to a set of aftermarket fuel rails. This is what I will be upgrading to in the near future.

 

Wow, this thread took off haha.

As for me changing a stock 255 for an aftermarket one, I haven't found anything set in stone as to what was actually in my truck. I have a hard time believing it was a 255 or all the Mustang guys would be putting them in their cars instead of the SVT focus pumps. Although I could be wrong.

I do know I have seen a 595 rwhp Camaro run on a single Walbro 255 so I think it should be plenty to do the job I need it to. I'm also installing a Kenne Bell boost-a-pump just in case.

 

Im going Ford GT pump with KB boost a pump

 

What kind of RWHP are you guys running which requires an upgraded pump? You should be seeing around 90-95% WOT duty cycle on the stock pump at 410-420 RWHP using 43 lb injectors (Roush application). I would think a KB boost a pump with the stock fuel pump would be plenty unless you're pushing some serious horse-power. Have you guys data logged the fuel pressure and pump duty cycle (voltage) to see how much extra is really needed? There's serious power out there with a stock pump using only a boost a pump.

 

DigitalMarket, you may very well be right, but I already had the boost a pump from another project and $80 for a brand new fuel pump that I KNOW will handle the power is just for more piece of mind than anything.

 

I would rather push a fuel pump 50% duty cycle then 90%. Same thing with injectors, I'd rather have them be overkill then put a strain on the system.

 

With a boost-a-pump you'll drop the duty cycle to about 50% on a boosted F150 and it actually ends up running cooler. Kenne Bell has sold tons of them since 1998 without a single stock pump failure, has flow tested them against dual pumps, temperature tested, etc. They put a lot of research into them. I'm considering adding one right now. Nice thing is you don't have to go through the extra work involved in installing a pump. I don't know about you, but I don't cherish the thought of working with a gas tank on my back!

With injectors... yeah, you want some margin, but not too much. The larger you go the more difficult good idle and low RPM flow becomes.

 

I will have to agree with the gas tank comment... That thing is huge on these trucks and extremely heavy haha.

And the boost-a-pump is amazingly simple yet effective method to upping fuel pressure, to anyone who is interested I definitely recommend it.

Digital, what do you have done to your truck?

 

Question... how much power do you plan to produce? (If you're like me... you don't know when enough is enough!)

 

I don't plan on making anything to crazy, but I have been known to go a little overboard at times haha.

While all my parts are not currently installed I have purchased everything for my setup that I plan on running.

Roush S/C with +2LB lower (8 PSI total)
42LB injectors
Pacesetter headers
Ford Racing Catback
SCT Xcal 3

I've already had my transmission built and reinstalled with a 3000 RPM stall and a Trans Go shift kit.

I'm not going for a trailer queen of any sorts, just a fun street truck.

That's really all I plan on doing for it, but you never know when the bug will hit me again, after all, it's just a toy and I have a LS1 daily driver

 

Its a 2006 Roush F150 FX4 Stage 1 loaded with all of Roush's options. Basically delivered with everything except the supercharger (which was added shortly after deliver). Technically the truck should be a Stage 2 but they don't make side skirts for Supercrews. Supercrews are either Stage 1 or Stage 3. My truck has all the stage 2 options except no side skirts. Supercharger was added. Its a project truck I did as a cross-promotion with the guys at Roush, and we wanted to install a supercharger as part of it, hence the reason for the stage 1 instead of a 3. As delivered it had the front chin spoiler, Roush suspension, rear spoiler, hood scoop, top and side decals, Roush seats, Roush wheel flares, Roush dual exhaust, brushed aluminum trim kit, Roush floor mats, stage 1 badges, windshield banner and Roush 20" wheels with Roush wheel lock kit.

Added/upgraded:

- Roushcharger, 2+ lb lower pulley
- GMS coils
- Dynatech long tube headers w/Magnaflow hi-flow cats
- BC transmission w/high stall
- Dual 16" e-fans with DC Controls controller
- 5.2 inch e-fan on the tranny cooler with new style Troyer controller (he just came out with these, light years ahead of the older design)
- 5.2 inch e-fan on the intercooler heat exchanger, with new style Troyer controller. I have a 9 inch to install but its too thick, and I plan to relocate the exchanger then install it.
- Elabtronics timer. Very cool device. It has 4 modes. I use mode 3 which allows the fans to run for a preset time after I remove the keys, like a cool down timer. Unlike a cool down timer, however, it cost me a lot less and has more features.
- Mag Hytec differental cover (rear diff only) and trans pan
- Air/oil separator (I made this)
- Dash DAQ data logger connected to an LM LC-1 wide band
- Autometer gauges: Wide band, boost and G-force gauge (tells lateral Gs, acceleration, 1/4, 1/8, 0-60, 60-0, etc.)
- Roush Magellan GPS system
- Added a Lightning intercooler fluid reservior (in addition to the Roush tank). Its doubled the fluid capacity of the entire system.
- Viper alarm
- Lots of interior items to dress it up.
- Powerslot crygenically treated rotors with EBC green pads
- Futomo quick oil change valve (I change oil every 2500 miles so this is very helpful).
- Roush dash kit
- Roush door sill plates
- Roush billet gas tank cover
- Retrax retractable tonneau cover
- Brand Motion Hands Free Blue Tooth phone system
- Roush front and back oval badges
- Black Ford Harley Davidson Taillights and headlights
- Chromed "stealth" bulbs
- Silverstar Ultra headlight bulbs
- Pro-pods pillar trip gauge pod
- UPR interior billet accessories
- UPR under hood billet dress-up
- Z-Rated Yokohama Parada Spec performance tires


Its used a variety of my tunes (I used to run a shop and moved a lot of chips and tuners) and Mike Troyers. Mike and I are friends, and I've been to his shop several times (considering the distance) -- truck's been on his dyno 4 times.

My upcoming projects:

1. Relocate the heat exchanger to the front.
2. Add a larger fan to the intercooler heat exchanger.
3. Built my own version of the Killer Chiller (really not that hard, they are actually using a home/industrial heating system heat exchanger that costs about $40).
4. Kenne Bell boost-a-pump
5. Increase boost after changes 1-4 are made
6. (Working on this now) Reduce weight by removing the extremely heavy tow hooks, replace the stock jack with a lighter bottle jack and replace the stock spare with something lighter.
7. Relocate the battery to the bed of the truck and use a smaller, lighter battery. I have a Battery Tender to keep it topped off, so a smaller battery doesn't worry me.
8. Replace the idler and other pulley where possible with lighter billet versions, to reduce parasitic losses, reduce a slight amount of weight, and dress up the engine bay.
9. Install a CarPC. This will allow me replace the sound system, GPS, DashDAQ and all my gauges, and have all this managed by the CarPC. Not only cleaner looking but it also should remove about 15-20lbs of weight (the stock 6 dvd changer is heavy). I may even see if I can program it to handle the fans rather than using fan controllers. I have 25 years of computer programming experience so this shouldn't be a problem.

http://www.kennebell.net/accessories...boostapump.htm Scroll down to the bottom of the page. They have some really good articles about the boost-a-pump.