So im thinking of giving the expo a 75 hp shot of nos. what is the best kit and what type of kit wet or dry. Im going to be using a after cooled vortech v-1 set up. where do you go to get the bottles filled can u do it by mail? can the system be set up like my snow meth set IE. can it be set by a psi swich at such a amont of boost it kicks on?

 

talk to boss1984, he used to run nitrous and yeah a progressive switch will be what you want

 

First and foremost. NOS is a company. Please refer to it in general as Nitrous.

IMO in ANY application, wet will always be the best. People will argue about that until they are blue in the face, but the idea of spraying nitrous and relying on the computer to make fuel adjustments just doesn't fly with me.

You will need to get your bottles filled locally. Tracks and speed shops normally have the equipment. It is 100% illegal and DANGEROUS to ship a full nitrous bottle by mail.

Yes it can be set up with a psi switch. It can be setup with a progressive controller as well. Nitrous technology has made leaps and bounds over the past 5 years.

When it all comes down to it, for a safe reliable nitrous system you are going to look to spend around $1000+

What type of fuel system do you have? What power level is your blower currently at?


I used to work for a nitrous company(2 actually) and with just about all of them at one time or another. So if you have any question I can help.

 

Thaks for the correction I was assuming the the NOS was the signs on the periodic table to make the compound had no idea. One of the biigest fear i have with the whole nitrous thing is fire or worse. Is this stuff safe to have in the cab"the bottle" what is the risk if ever there was to be a leak? I have 8psi from a 928 powerdyne now aftercooled but Carl will have my Vortech done hear any day at which point i will bring it back to my tunner to retune for 10 to 13 psi max. I will begoing to a larger after cooler here in the next week or so. Are the gains that much greater then my snow set up now? Ive been told that Nitrous is much cooler then meth/water/nitro? but i feel safe with it. I feel theres very little cance it will hurt someone if it goes wrong. will i get this safty net with the set up. for all detailed info and too not suck up to much space take a look at my profile please, my new set up will be much the same as my old but with the 928 moded v-1 and a larger cooler with a kick *** tune. So your a fan of the wet idea can you tell me why in a nut shell Thanks for all the help the cost is not a issue but the filling of the bottles at only local shops blows how much on avarge is it to fill the bottles and is it safe to leave the valve on all the time? I know nothing at all about it I want some input from people such as your self as to wheter its worth the risk of fire

 

I run a Nitrous Express wet kit. It's just a basic kit. I put the bottle in the bed ,added a bottle heater and a remote bottle opener. And a purge of course. 1000 bucks is pretty much right on the money.
I just run the WOT switch that came with the kit. You shouldn't be spaying it unless your WOT anyway!
I get my bottles filled at a local welding shop. So check the welding shops in your area and one might do it. It's less money to have it filled there then most speed shops.

Phil

 

N20 is the formula for it, 2 parts nitrogen, one part oxygen. The oxygen is the part that allows more fuel to be added to create more power. It's basically a "liquid" form of forced induction. When the 2 nitrogen turns from a liquid to a gas it helps cool the charge, an added benefit to Nitrous. This is why on blown applications a "50 shot" will be a equivalent to a "75hp" pill or bigger.

Nitrous itself is not flammable. It is not a fuel source. The chance of itself catching on fire because a spark got near it is non existent. Mounting it in the cab is not a problem at all IF you have a rupture disc and a blow off tube that will lead the nitrous outside the cab. No matter where you mount the bottle should have a rupture disc. If the pressure gets to high the rupture disc will pop and release the nitrous, instead of the bottle exploding....

The reason you must have a blow down tube if it's in your cab is that sulfur is added to all publicly sold nitrous to prevent people from huffing it. This does not hurt performance at all, and getting medical grade nitrous has no added benefit.

Yes gains can and will be much greater then a W/M system. W/M cools the intake charge slightly and the meth allows you to run slightly more timing.

A wet nitrous system not only adds fuel and oxygen, it has a MUCH colder charge. Anytime you can cram more fuel and air into cylinder, the more power you will get.

If you buy a complete nitrous system yes. The only thing to worry about is just putting to much power through the engine to where the internals can't handle it. Window switch with progressive controller and boost recognition would be the key. Add a wideband to it and you will have bout the safest nitrous system you can get.

Wet kits add fuel and nitrous using two different solenoids. Therefore no matter what the right amount of fuel will spray along with the nitrous(unless your fuel pump can't keep up)

Dry setups rely on the factory computer to spray more fuel using the injectors. Lots of variables that could go wrong that would cause the computer to not add enough fuel.

There are aftermarket computer systems that will work with dry nitrous kits, and this setup could arguably be the best over wet. This is a totally different subject and should be addressed in length.


You can rent a mother bottle and buy a fill station and fill your own bottles.

I have seen anywhere from $30-$60 to fill a 10lb bottle. Normally It's around $4.00-$4.50 a lb.

In theory yes, but I and everyone else with common sense will tell you no. Only have the valve open on the bottle when you plan on using it. If you are going to do a little street racing it's ok to open the bottle when you leave the house and play around for the night. Just when you get home shut the valve and purge the system.

Once again the risk of fire is irrelevant. This Fast and the furious "NOZ" and the car blowing up 30' off the ground is pure movie hype. The tanks won't explode if there is a rupture disk. What it would do though is add much more oxygen to the fire and it will cause it to burn hotter. But Nitrous itself being the cause of the fire just can't happen.

 

From a safety stand point, they are pretty safe in the bottle.

I have seen several engine manifold explosions. Someone not installing it correctly and/or a bad activation switch letting Nitrous build up in the manifold, then boom. Or backfire. It can be pretty exciting, but you would have to be right over the engine to have anything personally bad happen to you.

I know lots of people who run it all the time and never had an issue. But those who have had an issue, normally toasts the engine.

Like any mod, there are always risks. There is no "safe" mod. I had 600 miles on my Nitemare motor when it went boom. Not form nitrous, just one of those things where something let go.

 

Hose it till it dies!...i use a WOT switch,for the activation of my nawzz....but a boost pressure switch would work best.

 

actually I'm pretty sure it the formula is NO2, or maybe N2O2 (with a small 2 after the O), otherwise CO2 would make a better oxidizer, i believe N2O is Nitride, N2 won't bond with anything unless it is some form of ion, but i don't really remember a hole lot from chemistry , so i may be wrong.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrous_oxide

 

wiki is good enough for me, i stand corrected.

 

im so glad someone got to this first thing, NAWZ is for ricers

 

X2

Phil

 

Bust disk and blow down tube if mounted in the cab
WOT Switch
Window switch
fuel pressure safety switch
Wide band and 02 switch so if you go lean it shuts off

This is what you need to run a safe setup, it will cost close to if not over $1000 to do it right. I would also add a fuel cell with its own pump and run C16 or something of the sorts in it, that would make it that much more safer (and much more expensive, plan on spending about the same on the fuel cell and pump)

Most of this was said already, just throwing in my $0.02 and agreeing with most.

Oh, I have went the nitrous route in my past, way cheaper to buy your own mother bottle and pumping station ($600 for the pumping station) if you plan to run a lot. I had it on my 03 Cobra, 10lb bottle would last about 2.5 passes and then run out of steam. Would I do it again? Nope, I would run a better blower and more boost......hands down. Nitrous is fun, but gets EXPENSIVE fast.

Greg

 

How big of a pill were you spraying?

When you start getting into the bigger shots, 200-300 It start's emptying the bottles fast. My viper has two 15lb bottles on the 300rwhp pill and it will drain the bottles with a quickness.. They key to getting the most out of a bottle is a automatic heater. 50/75 pill of spray should last a looooong time.


Agreed on the fuel cell, but like you said this all starts adding up and then you will drop 2,3,5k+ in a nitrous setup before you know it. MY cost on my viper setup was knocking on the door of 5k. Might as well buy a better boosted setup then IMO...