I thought I would post this up here, because you guys seem to know about my setup. Got a couple of questions. I have a bone stock 07 Roush Nitemare.

I have raced it a few times and have won a couple events. I race my Mustangs on a regular basis also, so I am not new to this. But I have an issue.

At the better prepared drag strip, the best 60ft I can knock down is 2.1. I have no spinning issues on these street tires. I was going to add Drag Radials, but why.... If I am not spinning then I don't need them. Which brings to question....I should be spinning the tires.

I have tried many different launch methods and I can cut near perfect launch eveytime. I hold the break and keep my accelarator foot up off the gas, then when it turns green, I let off the break and at the same time smash the accelorator to the floor. It launches pretty hard this way.

With no spin and only a 2.1 60ft, one of two things happening. Either the tranny is not completely locking in or the throttle is not reacting when I hammer it.

The tranny seems to be fine. It is shifting hard and the MPH on the runs seem right, so I don't think it is slipping. But the launches are weak.

What do you guys think? Should I consider a new Stall Converter? I know the fly by wire throttle is an issue for hesitation, but I imagine Roush would have tuned this out.

And BTW, I can do burn outs just fine. So spin is there on other situations. But the track is very sticky.

 

Custom tuning will take care of the problem. There are several issues with Roush's tune which can be addressed:

1. Roush dumps boost until 80% throttle. You're losing a split second at launch due to this.
2. Roush doesn't switch from closed to open loop quick enough. It should be on the order of .5 to .75 seconds instead of 1.5 (maybe 3, need to look it up, don't remember right off hand).
3. The driver demand tables aren't set up optimally and the engine isn't giving you all it's capable of.
4. VCT rework... can make a big difference at higher RPMs.
5. Fueling. Roush's tune runs damn near 100% duty cycle on the fuel pump at WOT. A good tune can reduce this to 80-85%.
6. Throttle lag... yes its better than stock but not as good as it can get.
7. AC control. More power to be gained with the PCM turning off AC for a longer period of time. Obviously, you're probably not running AC at the track, but it'll help on the street.
8. Higher idle speed. This will help get the engine into the torque curve slightly faster.
9. More aggressive timing. Roush leaves a bit on the table.
10. Torque reduction. Roush's torque reduction values leaves a lot on the table.
11. WOT A/F ratio. A dyno tune will make sure it's optimal. With both custom and standard tuning, keep this in mind: at WOT the first run it'll run rich. The tune leans out to where it needs to be after a couple of runs. Make sure you do a couple of WOT runs before you get to the track.
12. WOT shift points need to be moved up about 100 RPM with a stock converter. This will move the RPMs to a better point in the torque curve after the shift.

There's a lot more, but those are some of the issues. I've seen Roush's tune up close and personal, and its not that good.

 

Get a looser converter, traction bars, gears, drag radials, a valve boby or shift kit for the trans, and a better tune than the roush.

Troyer is an authorized dealer for roush and his tunes are covered under the roush warranty. You can get a tune from troyer with a 2# lower and a 4r75 valve body, and get a looser converter like this one from dirty dog http://www.dirtydogperformance.com/c...w/prod_26.html and you should hit 1.8-1.9 60' and hit mid 12's with ease.

 

A looser converter will definitely help. It'll require some good tuning if you want to remain happy with it on the street but it makes a difference. If it were me, I wouldn't combine it with gears, at least not if you plan on a lot of street use (go one or the other). I have a high stall converter and it'll launch unbelievably well for a Supercrew with heavy 20" Roush wheels, but I would not want the higher RPMs it would give with different gearing (already, it has to have very aggressive TC lockup control to make it streetable). You'll be able to get away with 4.11 gears if you only go with slightly higher stall (stock is 1800 RPM), but if you go with a wider ratio I'd stick with something close to the stock stall speed. Just my personal opinion, based on a lot of street use with a high stall converter --- you want to be able to enjoy the truck off the track as well as on the track.

If you go with a higher stall converter make sure you get one with a lot of material on the lockup clutch. This will allow the tuner to command lockup immediate after the 1-2 shift at WOT, and it'll help 1/4 mile times. Stock surface area, or just a little more isn't going to hold up to the torque and weight of the truck --- you need to get something with a lot more surface area. The Dirty Dog converter lists 87 sq inches of disc surface area... my truck is running around 110 sq inches (yes, they are available, ask Darrin here: http://www.bc-automotive.com/html/to...onverters.html ).

The Nitemare has a Roush suspension, and its stiffer than stock. It ought to hook up well -- get traction bars if you're getting wheel hop or axle wrap: with stock tuning and stock boost (or even 8-10 lbs).. this shouldn't be an issue.

 

True story ^

 

good info here and yes the Roush tunes are crap, Troyer made another 30rwhp over the stock Roush tune I believe. There's a article on ford-trucks somewhere comparing the tunes. I'm interested to know what the gearing is? 3.55's, 3.73's?

 

All the stock blower tunes suck, they leave alot of on the table. I spin an ungodly amount and pull a 2.3, Id rather not spin and get a 2.1!

 

All the Nitemare trucks are converted to 3.73 gear