GVWR question

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  #1  
Old 08-04-1999 | 05:25 AM
Good_Guy's Avatar
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Post GVWR question

The 99 F-150 SC has a 6000 lbs GVWR rating if I remember correctly which means all the weight on both axles (no tow). We use this truck in our family business to haul cargo and we have yet to tow with it so everything is on the truck bed. Not wanting to overload the truck I try to be more concious to its limits. So I had it weighed and the total weight is 4600 lbs, that's the truck, Glasstite campershell, about 24 gallons of gas and all its fluids. Now with me inside, that adds 165 lbs (I round up to 200 for some leeway) which leaves me with 1200 lbs of cargo before it becomes overloaded which equates to 34 - 40 boxes worth of frozen fish. But on some of my deliveries, my mom would insist on joining as well as my sister so that leaves me with rougly about 1000 lbs to work with. So I am thinking of getting the Hellwig helper springs LP-25 hopefully buying atleast 500 lbs (the truck accessory guy I talked to says it increases to 2500 lbs) but I saw a fine print somewhere not to go beyond GVWR. My question is why buy the helper spring if you are still to limit yourself to the GVWR which the vehicle is designed to be able to handle with no fuss? I would really like to be able to haul 1750 lbs worth of cargo (not counting me and another person inside plus the camper shell and full tank of gas) with no worries. Actually I hauled that much weight back then when I delivered 55 boxes to LA from SF but it scared me seeing the springs bent in an upside down U. I want to be able to do that occasionally and still have the right side up U and not to be able to worry that the truck would collapse. Another question, what can I do to increase my GVWR and what is the weakest link in the suspesion system that is limiting the truck to its GVWR (I am suspecting the springs)? Also, since most of the cargo is in the bed, the weight is centered more on the back so I don't really plan on stiffening up the front, but should I also consider that? By the way, anyone else here have a campershell and would like to compare notes?

Leo dC

PS I have a 99 F-150 SC SB 4x2 with a 4.2L using a K&N filter and has a Glasstite Targa campershell.

 
  #2  
Old 08-07-1999 | 08:50 AM
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Wink

Only the factory can increase gvwr. However they tend to be a little conservative with the ratings.You might want to think about aftermarket shocks and a air ride kit. If you can find a copy of 4x4 Power-july99 issue it has all the details or call Air Lift at 800-248-0892 and Firestone at 800-247-4337 and tell them what you need. Good Luck

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1989 F-150 XLT LARIAT 4x4 4.9L I6 5 speed manual tranny 3.55 gears K&N FIPK 3" Flowmaster.

 
  #3  
Old 08-07-1999 | 10:57 PM
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ebn
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Good Guy,

It is hard to forget the guy who hauls frozen fish. So if I remember correctly, you've been wondering about ways to carry your cargo safely for quite some time.

When I've occasionally hauled heavy stuff in my truck--dirt, gravel, concrete piers, people's houses (okay, just contents of...)--the back end sunk down disappointingly. I don't know how much weight I had back there, but I'm sure it was close to capacity. Maybe a little more. I found this troublesome for a number of reasons. 1) no ground clearance for when I would go in and out of my driveway and things would scrape 2) ride and handling was compromised, with a lot of bounce and oscillation 3) when towing a trailer as well, the hitch was too low for my liking 4) rear mud flaps show wear from dragging on the ground 4) it just didn't feel right.

I contemplated a number of different options--helper springs, add-a-leafs, air bags, etc.--and settled on the Hellwig LP-25 helper springs. While I don't plan on overloading the truck, the helper springs maintain a respectable ride height (and therefore suspension travel), and manage to keep the handling more neutral and in my opinion, safe, when hauling close to capacity. Also, since the LP-25s are adjustable, I was able minimize the effect on ride comfort while compensating for the Snugtop Cap that I have on (about 200-250 lbs), which had essentially leveled the truck's ride height front and back.

When I bought the truck (first truck), I didn't realize how quickly weight adds up. In the future, I'll probably go with at least a LD 250 series Ford. In the meantime, I'm very happy with the LP-25s. I bought mine from JC Whitney, at their internet price (under $165 incl. shipping).

Hope this helps. Tell me what else I can share.

ehren

------------------
98 F150 4x4 4.6 Auto SC XLT--K&N, Superchip Flipchip, SnugTop XV Cap

 
  #4  
Old 08-12-1999 | 07:57 PM
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From: Sioux Falls, South Dakota
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Also watch for tire loading. Air them up to the max stated on the sidewall when carrying a load (all 4). After 10-20 miles stop and test their temperature (I just walk around the truck and place my palm on each sidewall) any hot tire (hurts your hand) indicates it needs more air. Multiple hot tires means you are overloaded.
You should also multiply the weight carrying capacity of your tires (at max air pressure) by 4 and make sure it exceeds 6600 lbs (your GVWR). If it comes to 6800 lbs - that is the most your truck should ever weigh loaded.
If you are bending the rear springs into an upside-down U, I suspect you are way past a safe load. Perhaps the original springs have been damaged. Adding a leaf or the Hellwig helpers mentioned earlier should improve your carrying capacity - as long as the tire's capacity isn't exceeded. A blow-out on the freeway with 1000+ lbs of fish won't be pretty.
Good Luck.
For your next truck, I'd consider a Super Duty. Their GVWR is 8800 lbs and my Crew Cab Long Bed weighs in at 6700 lbs with family and full gas tank (38 gallons!). That allows me to carry 2100 pounds of fish...

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1999 F-250 XLT Super Duty Crew Cab Long Bed
V-10, Automatic 4R100, 4.30 Limited Slip.
GVW = 6700# Towing Capacity = 13,300#
4 Wheel ABS disks + Reese 15K hitch
Dark Hunter Green. Ford Running Boards.
Grey Rhino-Liner. Captain's Chairs. CD+Tape
Polished Stainless Steel Wheel-well Molding http://members.home.net/jchartier/jnctrk.html


 



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