BellTech Leafsprings
#5
If you have already made a request of the online store on this site, with no luck, go to www.hotchkis.net
then click on "online cataloge"
then click on 97-2003 f-150
then you will see choices for sport leaf springs (they are 3 inch lowering springs that keep your towing capacity due to the overload leaf. Remember, by gaining lowering and suspension performance, you will have a stiffer ride. It gives the prices and ability to call or order online.
Site rules prohibit the discuss of specific pricing in the forums.
They also sell the best front swaybar and a matching rear swaybar. (I have the Hellwigg front and back and like them.)
I heard their coil springs are great as well. However, after not getting a stiff enough ride during crosswinds with my DJM 2 inch front coil springs, I cut my own stock springs for a true 3.5 lowering infront. VERY stiff since you increase the spring rate when you cut them and it is a very rough ride, but the best thing I could have done for crosswinds (better than swaybars, lower profile wider tires, stiffer shocks or hard bed cover). However, in the end, I should have went with front lowering control arms instead of lowering front coil springs. You keep your tie rod geometry and do not have bumpsteer as YOU will have with front lowering coil springs. But that is another topic....
then click on "online cataloge"
then click on 97-2003 f-150
then you will see choices for sport leaf springs (they are 3 inch lowering springs that keep your towing capacity due to the overload leaf. Remember, by gaining lowering and suspension performance, you will have a stiffer ride. It gives the prices and ability to call or order online.
Site rules prohibit the discuss of specific pricing in the forums.
They also sell the best front swaybar and a matching rear swaybar. (I have the Hellwigg front and back and like them.)
I heard their coil springs are great as well. However, after not getting a stiff enough ride during crosswinds with my DJM 2 inch front coil springs, I cut my own stock springs for a true 3.5 lowering infront. VERY stiff since you increase the spring rate when you cut them and it is a very rough ride, but the best thing I could have done for crosswinds (better than swaybars, lower profile wider tires, stiffer shocks or hard bed cover). However, in the end, I should have went with front lowering control arms instead of lowering front coil springs. You keep your tie rod geometry and do not have bumpsteer as YOU will have with front lowering coil springs. But that is another topic....
Last edited by iron horse; 05-15-2003 at 02:03 AM.
#6
#7
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#8
Re: Control Arms?
Originally posted by SteedaSuperCrew
Who has the best control arms? Where to find them? I have a 2/4 drop Coil/Hanger/Shackle kit an I'm looking at maybe trying something different.
Who has the best control arms? Where to find them? I have a 2/4 drop Coil/Hanger/Shackle kit an I'm looking at maybe trying something different.
#11
If you replace your a-arms and not the springs then you do not have to replace shocks. The distance is still the same between the mounting points. It's typically advisable to use a shock made for a lowered application, but one thing I have found out this week as I've called various shock mfgrs. is that the extended and compressed lengths for a stock shock and one made for a 2" drop are the same. In fact many use the same part number.
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