shock installation
#1
#3
Shock installation is pretty easy on these trucks - provided you don't have terribly rusted mounting bolts and studs like I did after 4 winter seasons and the associated salt.
I replaced the stockers with Monroe Reflex Shocks. I did the fronts the night I got the shocks. I apologize for not remembering the exact sizes, but you should check it out before attempting this anyways. It took a 11 or 12mm wrench on the bottom mounting bolts in the front, a 20mm wrench to hold the mounting stud in place, and a 21mm deep well socket to remove the nut on the stud. The studs were so rusted on mine, I broke one of them off while removing it. I reused the bottom mounting bolts, and the top stud and nut were a different size on the new shocks. Check that out before attempting! I was able to do this with the front end lifted on Jack Stands just high enough to flex the suspension to full drop with the wheels barely touching the ground. Others claim they had to remove the wheels.
The rears were easy. The bottom bolt and nut required an 18mm wrench and an 18mm socket. The top required a deep well 17 or 18mm socket, and another wrench to hold the stud in place, 16 or 17mm (I think - been a while now). The new shock barrel was much larger than the stockers. The retaining straps on the shocks were the perfect length to drop them in place without the need to compress the shocks. Bolt 'em back in and cut the strap.
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1997 F150 XLT, Flareside , Moonlight Blue, 4x2, SC, Auto, 4.6L, 3:08's, Cargo Cover by Century, Penda bed liner, Blue Oval reciever hitch plug, Driver Design bug deflector, Monroe Reflex Shocks, 235/70/16 Firestone Wilderness AT's, sliding rear window, captain's chairs, Valvoline Durablend Oil, Purolator Pure One Oil Filter, 280 lbs. of traction sand (ahh, winter in the great white north! ), and 119,000 miles and counting!
I replaced the stockers with Monroe Reflex Shocks. I did the fronts the night I got the shocks. I apologize for not remembering the exact sizes, but you should check it out before attempting this anyways. It took a 11 or 12mm wrench on the bottom mounting bolts in the front, a 20mm wrench to hold the mounting stud in place, and a 21mm deep well socket to remove the nut on the stud. The studs were so rusted on mine, I broke one of them off while removing it. I reused the bottom mounting bolts, and the top stud and nut were a different size on the new shocks. Check that out before attempting! I was able to do this with the front end lifted on Jack Stands just high enough to flex the suspension to full drop with the wheels barely touching the ground. Others claim they had to remove the wheels.
The rears were easy. The bottom bolt and nut required an 18mm wrench and an 18mm socket. The top required a deep well 17 or 18mm socket, and another wrench to hold the stud in place, 16 or 17mm (I think - been a while now). The new shock barrel was much larger than the stockers. The retaining straps on the shocks were the perfect length to drop them in place without the need to compress the shocks. Bolt 'em back in and cut the strap.
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1997 F150 XLT, Flareside , Moonlight Blue, 4x2, SC, Auto, 4.6L, 3:08's, Cargo Cover by Century, Penda bed liner, Blue Oval reciever hitch plug, Driver Design bug deflector, Monroe Reflex Shocks, 235/70/16 Firestone Wilderness AT's, sliding rear window, captain's chairs, Valvoline Durablend Oil, Purolator Pure One Oil Filter, 280 lbs. of traction sand (ahh, winter in the great white north! ), and 119,000 miles and counting!
#4
If you've changed them on other vehicles, you won't have any problems with these. Straight forward, easy access, a great do-it-yourself project, and a welcome change over struts, etc.
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2000 F-150 XL, RC, LB, 5.4L, 4R70W, 3.55LS,
Class III tow, Payload #3, & Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS, Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner w/Paintsaver & gas/wheel/spare locks,
K&N F.I.P.K. w/Outwears pre-filter, Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back w/ 3" Y-pipe,
Hellwig front & rear anti-sway bars, Rancho RS 9000s,
Mobil 1, K&N oil filter.
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2000 F-150 XL, RC, LB, 5.4L, 4R70W, 3.55LS,
Class III tow, Payload #3, & Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS, Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner w/Paintsaver & gas/wheel/spare locks,
K&N F.I.P.K. w/Outwears pre-filter, Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back w/ 3" Y-pipe,
Hellwig front & rear anti-sway bars, Rancho RS 9000s,
Mobil 1, K&N oil filter.
#5
Just did my Expy last weekend. No problem.
Most difficult for me was the drivers side rear with the 30 gal. fuel tank in the way of the top bolt but a 12" extension did the trick. It's not hidden, just a little far to reach.
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2000 EDDIE BAUER EXPEDITION 4x2
-->Come share my Addiction<--
Most difficult for me was the drivers side rear with the 30 gal. fuel tank in the way of the top bolt but a 12" extension did the trick. It's not hidden, just a little far to reach.
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2000 EDDIE BAUER EXPEDITION 4x2
- Estate Green
- 5.4 ltr
- 3:55 LS rear
- Superchip!
- Airaid FIPK
- Gibson S/S Swept Side Cat Back Exhaust
- Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar
- Edelbrock Performer IAS Shocks
- Xenon Super White Head and Driving Lights
- Clear Corners
- Tow Package
- Rear Load Leveling
- Moonroof
- Century Child Seat!
- Front Polyurethane Anti-Sway Bar Bushings recieved, wrong part number
-->Come share my Addiction<--
#6
Just a suggestion...drop the spare tire, it saves a lot more time on installation than it does to drop it.
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MY TRUCK:
99 F-150 4x4, 5.4 Triton, 3.55 gears, Amazon Green-Harvest Gold two-tone.
MY MODIFICATIONS:
Superchips Flip Chip
Lund bug shield
Window vent visors
17" Chrome ORP wheels
Clarion Pro-Audio in-dash CD
Connex 3300HP CB radio, K-40 antenna
Husky floor liners
Custom dual exhaust w/Flowmaster muffler and dual 3" chrome tips
Hidden hitch
K&N Filter
Extang tonneu cover
Rancho RSX Shocks
Tekonsha sentinal, inertia activated electric brake controller
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MY TRUCK:
99 F-150 4x4, 5.4 Triton, 3.55 gears, Amazon Green-Harvest Gold two-tone.
MY MODIFICATIONS:
Superchips Flip Chip
Lund bug shield
Window vent visors
17" Chrome ORP wheels
Clarion Pro-Audio in-dash CD
Connex 3300HP CB radio, K-40 antenna
Husky floor liners
Custom dual exhaust w/Flowmaster muffler and dual 3" chrome tips
Hidden hitch
K&N Filter
Extang tonneu cover
Rancho RSX Shocks
Tekonsha sentinal, inertia activated electric brake controller
#7
Gcole,
I just talked with a local 4x4 shop and they will install shocks that I bring to them for $40. I could do it my self and take 2-3 times as long, or have them do it. I'm also having them crank the t bars and align.
Regards,
Sean
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2000 F150 XLT 4x4 Extended Cab
I just talked with a local 4x4 shop and they will install shocks that I bring to them for $40. I could do it my self and take 2-3 times as long, or have them do it. I'm also having them crank the t bars and align.
Regards,
Sean
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2000 F150 XLT 4x4 Extended Cab
- Deep Wedgewood Blue
- 4.6L Manual Trans
- Ford Tonneau Cover
- Magnum Bug Deflector
- Panther 16x8 wheels with 285/75 R16 BFG All Terrain T/A
- 'Superchips' Performance Chip
- K&N FIPK (With custom mod)
- Westin Side Bars (Black)
- 3" Jardine Cat-Back Exhaust with Crome Tip
- Clear Corners
- Tinted Font Side Windows