Hey Rancho Owners,

Do the Rancho shocks not expand like the other shocks I've seen. There are no ties holding the piston from being forced out of the shock, is this right? Most all shocks I've seen are under Gas pressure and after you cut the ties the piston moves out of the shock automatically. Are Rancho shocks just built that way?

Thanks
Phil

 

Yep my RS5000's are the same way, i don't know why. Have you installed yours yet? Mine are great offroad, i've never bottomed out since i put them on, but they ride really stiff around town.

-Jon

 

Ford4ever,

Hope to instal mine this weekend. Can't wait to see how they feel. Thanks for the reply.

Phil
http://phildac.www8.50megs.com

 

My RS5000's are like that too, I didn't understand it at first...but when I got them on my truck, I realized they are awesome. That's just the way they are designed. I feel the same way Ford4ever does, they are great off-road, but once you hit the pavement they are too stiff.

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1994 F-150 XL 4x4
I-6 300ci 91K miles
Auto Transmisson
Standard Cab, Long Bed
3.55 Limited Slip
Rancho RS5000 Shocks
20% Window Tint
Kenwood eXcelon X715 CD Player
Diamond Plated Delta Champion Toolbox
DeeZee Bright-Tread Bedside covers

 

ENewman,

Thanks for the reply, I'm hoping these shocks help in decreasing the body rool when going around corners.

Phil
http://phildac.www8.50megs.com

 

I agree with all of you, I just got mine put on 3 days ago. They really do help stop body roll, and they are great for offroading. The only thing I don't care for is that the rear shocks are just a little too stiff on the pavement, Everytime I cross the speedbumps to get home, I have to check my mirrors to see if I got hit from behind LOL.



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http://www.f150world.com/ranger1505/

'97 F-150 4X4 reg cab long bed.Metalic Teal.
*Ravin 55 dual rear exaust
*Airaid intake
*Billet inserts
*bumper insert
*brush guard
*KC lights
*Superchip
*Delta toolbox
*Tonneau cover
*Rancho RS5000 shocks
*Rancho RS5000 steering stabilizer

[This message has been edited by ranger1505 (edited 06-15-2001).]

 

Installed my Rancho RS5000 Saturday evening. Jacked up the front and supported with jack stands then took off the tires. Then jacked up the "A" arms and removed the old shocks and installed the new ones. Let the front end back down, torqued the lugs to 95lb/ft and took for a drive to re-alligne the suspention. I could tell a definate change in body roll. Came back and did the rears with the wheels on and on the ground. 18mm top and bottom. Put some anti-sieze on the threads of the bolt and studs. I really like them. I don't mind the stiffness of the shocks at all. It corners 100% better than it did before. Hopefully will take some pic's soon and add them to my web site.

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Phil
http://phildac.www8.50megs.com

 

Yep, there's definitly no drinking coffee on your way to work when you have these shocks on your truck! Big tires makes it even worse. They are great for stopping body roll. I thought that with my truck lifted i would have to go slow around turns but now my truck corners even better than when it was stock.

-Jon

 

The initial stiffness will go away after you get some miles on them.

They will be stiffer than stock around town, but you get use to it. Offroad they are nothing but spectacular!

I had them on 2 previous trucks, then when I upgraded to 9000s, I switched them over to my moms truck (same make and model). They ride excellent on my moms truck. She has never complained, but they did have about 10K miles on them when I did the switch. I now run 9000s just because I tow my boat and haul bikes and loads a lot more than I use to.

 

To add more technical here about the 5000s is that they are NOT gas pressurized. The gas pressurized shocks will rebound on their own.

The 5000s use Twin-tube cellular gas design and ten-stage valving.

No 200 PSI nitrogen charged crap. The reason I say this is that there is so much pressure on the shock, that it will not give on smaller bumps giving a VERY harsh ride on the street.

[This message has been edited by Matt90GT (edited 06-20-2001).]

 

Matt
What about the 9000's, are they gas charged? Reason I ask is because I am thinking about a set of 5000's or 9000's. Thinking of the 9000's so I can adjust when I want the stiffness.

 

Glad to see I wasn't the only one puzzled when I pulled those RS5000's out of the box and there were no wires compressing them. I plan on doing the install this weekend along with a fuel filter change and some brake work. I looked quick last night, but I didn't see a really easy way to get at the top bolt for the rear shock mounts. Any suggestions?

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'99 F150 SC Lariat 4x4 Deep Wedgewood Blue w/Harvest Gold 2-Tone, Medium Prairie Tan Leather, most of the factory options, Polar Bear Brush Guard, 2 165W KC Daylighters, Ford Factory Steb Bars, Extang Tonnuea Cover, Duracoat Liner with Rubber Mat, Flowmaster 50 series, Superchip, K&N Filter, Airbox Mod and Silencer Removed, 2 Rockford Fosgate 8"'s and a 250 watts RF amp

 

I forget the size of the rear bolt, it is metric, could be 13mm? Anyways, you need a long socket of the proper size, and a wrench of the same size. You also need a crescent wrench or proper wrench to hold the stud bolt. It takes a lot of patience, and bloody knuckles, but it can be done. Takes about 10 minutes on each side to undo the bolt. I did it last month, and scraped my hands good, but I prevailed.

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'97 F-150 4x4 SC SB 4.6L. Riding on 265/75R16 AT's. ProComp 3000 shocks, and Steering Stabilizer. Add-a-Leafs and rear block lift, torsion lift. Side Bars and pushbar with dual Fog/driving lights. WMS Intake, Gibson SS exhaust and Superchip!

Wish list: 4.10 Gears, Hedman Hedders, electric fan mod, 3" body lift, 35x12.5 MT's!!

 

The bolts are 18mm. A deep socket will make installation much easier.

Matt90GT posted that gas pressurization will make a shock overly stiff. This is not true - the valving has far more to do with stiffness on sharp hits than whether or not there is gas pressurization. The gas pressurized Edelbrocks are very responsive to pot holes and sharp hits, while by all accounts the non-pressurized Rancho 5000's are harsh.



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1999 XLT S/C, 4.2 V-6, auto, 3.55 rear, dark torreador red/harvest gold, Ford bed liner

Clarion ARX8570z Head Unit, Sony 10 disc CD, Infinity 610cs components & JBL GTO7520 speakers; USAcousitcs 4065 amp and Polk 8" subwoofer

Edelbrock IAS, Energy Suspension anti-sway bar bushings, Steeda Rear Anti-sway bar, 2" rear drop.

Superchip, Airaid FIPK, Flex-a-Lite Black Magic electric fan

 

So I did my installation this weekend. The rear top bolt was tricky. A deep socket didn't allow me to put a driver on it and the shallow socket didn't reach the nut. I finally got it though.
In the repair manual it says to torque the top mounting to 26 ftlbs or something like that. How are you supposed to do that? The Rancho instructions say only to compress the top rubber to the washer diameter. If I would try to get that kind of torque, the rubber would be all busted. Do I need to try something else?

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'99 F150 SC Lariat 4x4 Deep Wedgewood Blue w/Harvest Gold 2-Tone, Medium Prairie Tan Leather, most of the factory options, Polar Bear Brush Guard, 2 165W KC Daylighters, Ford Factory Steb Bars, Extang Tonnuea Cover, Duracoat Liner with Rubber Mat, Flowmaster 50 series, Superchip, K&N Filter, Airbox Mod and Silencer Removed, 2 Rockford Fosgate 8"'s and a 250 watts RF amp