question on that kit pipe, does that go in between the original filler hose and the new kit hose PA supplies? can i just replace the PA kit hose with a better size instead of using a full single line like you did?

 

Everything looks good, but one thing looks very messed up.

That license plate...
<a href="http://tinypic.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i3.tinypic.com/2i7v3x4.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a> there ya go haha

 

The kit comes with that red filler hose extension and the metal pipe that shows in my pics. PA provides both and clamps. So the intent is to clamp the metal pipe to the original filler hose and clamp the red extension filler to that other end of the metal pipe. So yes, you could just replace the red extension the kit provides and clamp it. I didn't like that concept, not to mention the oversize filler they provided, so I went to Autozone and rumaged through their hoses to find one that has the same curve and was long enough to replace the whole kit extension thing. If you replace the whole thing, you'll want a hose with a bend in it. Look under the driver's rear wheel well and you'll see the factory filler hose to get an idea. Remenber, the bed and thus the filler pipe that connects to the bed @ the gas cap will go up 3", thus the need for the longer hose. Good luck.

 

so the red filler hose they give you is actually to big for the pipe they supply and the neck of the gas tank? so if i went out and got a better hose to fit the pipe, will the other end fit the neck of the gas tank? is a special hose needed or...?

 

sorry, special hose meaning material that will hold up and wont crack or deteriorate from the fuel.

 

The red hose was clearly too big for the metal pipe they provide to connect the two pieces. The red extension is intended to connect to the filler pipe connected to the gas cap, not down by the tank although they both appear to be the same size fittings given the fatory hose is the same on both ends. What I got was a radiator hose and I'm assuming that will hold up. Gas is inert to plastic and rubber and the stress of radiator hoses take is extreme. Corrosive chemicals and extreme heat. It looked exactly like the factory fuel fill line.

 

you say it is intended to go onto the gas cap, from the directions http://www.performanceaccessories.co...ions/70063.pdf page.26, it is showing the red extension they supply, going on to the tank itself, then it looks like that extension is then clamped onto the pipe they supply then on the other end of that pipe, the oem hose is clamped. is this right, or am i missing something? thanks for your help, i appreciate it.

 

Not to thread jack, but I have a question. I'm doing a 3" on my 93 and was wondering if anyone had any easy ways to get the nast carriage bolts out of the bed. I've tried drilling a few out, even tried a nut splitter with no luck. I've been told heating them is the key, but there are at least two that are very close to the fuel lines/tank and I do not feel comfortable having a torch near those. Also, I have one that seems to have the square "mount" in the actual bed stripped.... ! haha, thanks! BTW your truck looks badass!

 

Thats what im going to do to my truck brother.. Can you give me any pointers and the cost of the kit with body lift and did you crank your torsion bar up also.. Im putting 20 inch rims with 35inch tires on my think they we fit..

 

"crowning" is an issue I thought of right after I posted that. The F150 came stock with aluminium rims, so it's pretty hard to widen them without weakening them. It's pretty hard to make aluminum welds as strong as steel welds.

 

Zepplin27... My advice for a Do it Yourself job (like I did) is eliminate all the things you can through the week so when you start the lift on the weekend you've cut down the job to the essentials. Remove the rear seat, buy the special Ford Torx wrenches (buy a set with 8 or so sizes b/c you'll use at least 3 of them), remove the two front bolts by the raditor support with air tools (they're threaded all the way through the bushing so it a chore to manually wrench them out), and take out the bedliner (to get to the bed bolts) if you have one. You'll need to set aside an entire day on Saturday and the better part of Sunday. The rear bumper has to be welded so you may have to drive a day or so with it 3" lower than the bed until you can get it to a weld shop. If you don't have a strudy vise and a big *** hammer, know someone that does. A couple of the bolts are press fitted and you have to beat the crap out of them to get them out of the bushings.

I purchased my kit from 4wheelonline.com ~$300 plus gap guards. I did not touch the torsion bars. As for the tires and rims, backspacing on the rims is key. There are some pretty knowledgeable guys on this forum that can help with fitment. I posted a thred on a backspcing primer on 9/26/06 in Wheels & Tires titled "Backspacing & offset confusion, this may help! ". Check it out, may help. Good luck.

BTW - It's well worth the effort. The truck looks great. There are a lot of trucks having to look up at me now

 

nooq - You're right, I thought the red extension was going to connect to the cap. I took one look at that and said no way, didn't care what end it was going on. If you have your kit you'll have to make you own decision if you want that on your truck. Maybe my kit got a wrong part thrown in????

 

SAMSON-Owns-You - Man I wish I could help but with mine being an '04 the bolts came out pretty easy. However, I think I would have drilled the head off the bolts and lifted the bed completely off so I could get some penetrating oil and some vise grips on them.

 

do you know the measurements on the hose you bought to replace the one PA gave you. i have 3 sitting here that fit very nicely around the kit pipe but wondering if it will fit around the fuel tank neck.

 

The replacment hose for the gas fill was 1 3/8" ID and 1 3/4" OD.