need help replacing shocks - too rusted to remove...
#1
need help replacing shocks - too rusted to remove...
hey folks,
I'm trying to replace my old Rancho rsx shocks, and starting on the back ones. the top mount threads are quite rusted, and I cannot keep that shaft from spinning when I try to turn the nut.
I had a vice grips on the flange underneath the shock mount, and that worked for a while, but now I can't figure a way to keep that thread shaft from spinning.
any ideas, besides a blow torch? I can' see well enough up there to tell if there's an area to slide a wrench in to hold it or not. maybe someone can enlighten me.
I appreciate the help.
I'm trying to replace my old Rancho rsx shocks, and starting on the back ones. the top mount threads are quite rusted, and I cannot keep that shaft from spinning when I try to turn the nut.
I had a vice grips on the flange underneath the shock mount, and that worked for a while, but now I can't figure a way to keep that thread shaft from spinning.
any ideas, besides a blow torch? I can' see well enough up there to tell if there's an area to slide a wrench in to hold it or not. maybe someone can enlighten me.
I appreciate the help.
#2
I dont really know what threaded shaft you are talking about(I have never looked at them) but I have had to do this w/a couple of bolts and stuff. If you have a dremel, grind 2 flat sections on either side essentally making a bolt and put a wrench in there to keep it from spinning. I dont know how much room you have to play with or the diam. of the threaded shaft but I hope this helps or gives you a idea.
#4
#5
I don't remember on the ranchos if the rubber sleeve goes all the way up but if there's something solid to latch onto I've always used a pipe wrench and gone from above with a socket wrench and an extension, but if you have enough slack just go with the hacksaw route, you're just throwing away the old shocks anyway. good luck
#6
i do the same as Buck
If your shocks have the shaft exposed then take the vice grips and grab the actual shock SHAFT then turn your nut, works well with small pipewrenches too.
If your shock DOESNT have a shaft exposed, i usually take the vice grips to the flat tip upper portion of the threaded shaft then turn the nut, after you get a bit up with the nut you can either change the vice grip to bellow the nut or hacksaw it off.
Quick question though, are you sure your rears have a top threaded shaft and nut?
i thought most truck rears had an eye-and-bolt design.
If your shocks have the shaft exposed then take the vice grips and grab the actual shock SHAFT then turn your nut, works well with small pipewrenches too.
If your shock DOESNT have a shaft exposed, i usually take the vice grips to the flat tip upper portion of the threaded shaft then turn the nut, after you get a bit up with the nut you can either change the vice grip to bellow the nut or hacksaw it off.
Quick question though, are you sure your rears have a top threaded shaft and nut?
i thought most truck rears had an eye-and-bolt design.
#7
Originally Posted by Fabian06SC
i do the same as Buck
If your shocks have the shaft exposed then take the vice grips and grab the actual shock SHAFT then turn your nut, works well with small pipewrenches too.
If your shock DOESNT have a shaft exposed, i usually take the vice grips to the flat tip upper portion of the threaded shaft then turn the nut, after you get a bit up with the nut you can either change the vice grip to bellow the nut or hacksaw it off.
Quick question though, are you sure your rears have a top threaded shaft and nut?
i thought most truck rears had an eye-and-bolt design.
If your shocks have the shaft exposed then take the vice grips and grab the actual shock SHAFT then turn your nut, works well with small pipewrenches too.
If your shock DOESNT have a shaft exposed, i usually take the vice grips to the flat tip upper portion of the threaded shaft then turn the nut, after you get a bit up with the nut you can either change the vice grip to bellow the nut or hacksaw it off.
Quick question though, are you sure your rears have a top threaded shaft and nut?
i thought most truck rears had an eye-and-bolt design.
And the rears were a real pain in the butt to get to.
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#8
thanks, folks
I solved the issue by putting the old rancho back on, driving 60 miles to a friend's shop, and putting the truck on his lift, and using his air tools to get those buggers lose. bought him and his gf dinner and everybody's happy
truck is a lot better than it was, the ranchos were not tightened down enough and they were rattling a bit over rough roads. Bilsteins are riding pretty nice.
I solved the issue by putting the old rancho back on, driving 60 miles to a friend's shop, and putting the truck on his lift, and using his air tools to get those buggers lose. bought him and his gf dinner and everybody's happy
truck is a lot better than it was, the ranchos were not tightened down enough and they were rattling a bit over rough roads. Bilsteins are riding pretty nice.