ok, so i have come to the conclusion, it has to be possible to use spindles out of a fabtech 6" lift kit for 04+ f150s. everyone out there that has there old spindles still after purchasing fabtech,cst, or procomp lifts, measure the how far the drop is from where the spindle mounts to the upper arm down to the spindle itself on the stock one, and then on your new one, see if its 3 inches more or whataever your kit says its supposed to be longer than. then also measure how many inches or whatever it is from the mounting spot to where the steering arm mounts to, both spindles should be the exact same length to those two points since all the manufactures say they keep the same dimensions and degrees as stock. please do this for me, wont take much time, but im sick of all the lame excuses about y they cant work. its all bullshinanigans

 

if u read this please post if u agree or not, and if not state y

 

I'm not sure, but I believe it is because of the rack and pinion steering. If the companies could product lift spindles for the 04-08's, I believe they would. They would be able to sell a ton of them.

 

What exactly do you mean by spindles and who says they won't work?

The 2004+ F-150's (at least 4X4's) don't have spindles. I believe you're referring to the "steering knuckle". The spindle is the tapered surface that the wheel bearing fits over and rides on. The 2004+ 4X4's use sealed bearing/hub assemblies that aren't tapered, that's why there's no spindle. One side of the bearing/hub assembly, the bearing side, bolts to the inside of the steering knuckle; the other side of the bearing/hub assembly, the hub side, has the wheel lug studs on it and rotates.

If you wish, I could measure my factory steering knuckles and my 6" ProComp steering knuckles. I know for sure that the tie rod attachment point on the steering knuckles is not 6" higher than stock. With the ProComp lift the steering rack itself is dropped down approximately 3" and the tie rods go through the attachment on the steering knuckle from the top-down (nut is on bottom) instead of the stock way of from the bottom-up (nut is on top). That's how they overall gain 6" to maintain the steering geometry. The distance from the upper ball joint to the CL of the bering/hub circle is indeed approximately 6" farther on the ProComp steering knuckle when compared to the stock unit.

Hope this helps.

Like I said... I don't know if the 4x2 F-150's use spindles and tapered bearings or not. I know on a 4x2 Ranger... Fabtech, Camburg, H&M, Dixon, etc. call them spindle lifts because they simply relocate the spindle to a lower location on the steering knuckle to achieve more ground clearance and room for larger tires. I don't think that's the case with 2004+ 4x2 F-150's.

 

Not sure what you're looking for, but the above picture is a 4 inch "spindle lift" for 2004-2007 4x2 F-150's. Notice where the bearing location is on the steering knuckle? There's no way that would work on a 4x4 truck because there would be no room for the axle on the inside of the steering knuckle.

 

baja, do u have the camburg kit?

 

here ya go.

 

yes please measure. is yours 2wd? if so, measure from the very top of the knuckle since it flush mounts to the upper arm, down to the center of where the spindle slides through the knuckle itself on both knuckles. the procomp one should obvioulsy be longer, im not sure how much hieght they say its suppose to give alone... but when u measure from the top of the knuckle down to where your steering arms mount that should be the exact same on both since all the lift kits say the keep the geometry the same. now just for me so i know, measure the entire knuckle top to bottom and let me know it theres a difference, i know on the pre 2004 f150s there was no difference, they simply lowered the spindle on the knuckle and left all the steering mounts in the same place.

now if i am thinking correctly, if you put a "fabtech" knuckle on from there 6" kit the steering arms should not change in degree and should be able to mount right up to the knuckle with no problem as they do on the stock knuckle.

1.)now depending on if the procomp knuckle is longer in overall length it may move the geometry of the lower arm making it aim more towards the ground rather than "as close to as" parallel to the ground. if so, i understand y you might need the drop down brackets, to compensate for that angle to straighten them up again.

2.)but when u think about it... without the down brackets, your entire knuckle will point in causing your front tires to toe inwards, simply get an alignment and that should fix the wear on the tires...

3.)lastly, everyone knows even with a 2.0 or 2.5" leveling kit, it wears down ball joints and maybe bushings quicker, which is y if i did try to just put the knuckle on, i would buy a camburg upper arm for the 1" uniball and just watch the wear and tear on my bushings.



1.) if the overall length of the two knuckles is the same, there should be absolutely nothing to worry about other than maybe an align. your steering arms should be just as straight as stock, your lower and upper arms would be just as straight. the only thing would be to buy longer shocks(which i plan on buying new coilovers anyways for longer travel) AND THATS ALL IT COULD AFFECT!!!

 

as you have all noticed, camburgs long travel kit utilizes your stock bottom arm and no drop bracket, fyi

 

My truck is a 2007 4x4. I'll get you some measurments tomorrow because it's been wet and rainy here all day long, but I can guarantee that the top to botton measurment on the ProComp knuckle is about 6" taller than the stock knuckle. I installed the lift myself and I laid the knuckles side by side before I installed the new ones.

I'm kind of confused. What exactly are you trying to do?

 

im just tryin to find out y i cant use a spindle out of a procomp, fabtech or cst lift kit by itself rather than getting a full lift

 

The tie rods would be at such an angle, it'd be impossible. The ball joints would be at such an angle, it'd be impossible. The CV angles would be at such an angle, it'd be impossible. We're talking 6" of a drop.

 

he tie rods would be at such an angle, it'd be impossible. The ball joints would be at such an angle, it'd be impossible. The CV angles would be at such an angle, it'd be impossible. We're talking 6" of a drop.
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the tie rods arent a problem i can build some for 50$ with full hiem joints, the ball joints are taken care of with camburg uppers, and i have 2wd. haha so any more things to turn down?

 

What about the LCAs, are you going to build new ones? Plus unless you plan on upgrading the Camburg UCAs soon as you get them than they're going to be maxed out. What are you going to do for a coilover? I'm just trying to figure out what you're trying to do. The kit is out there for what you want but it seems like you are just trying to be cheap about it. .

PS: Where are you getting Heim Joints for $50?

 

my buddies dad owns a wholesale shop for machines and such and buys heims in bulk
i built my 96 prerunner full hiemjoint steering on equal length i beams for 125$

but yah... i only want 4 or 5 inches of lift, im mainly going for decent travel though, i dont want to spend camburgs 3400$. i already have some 12" kings and some 10" fox coilovers that i can use. pretty much, i want good a decent off road truck with not a lot of hieght just enough to sit prerunner style