6" ProComp
#31
04-23-2008 | 12:28 PM
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 860
Likes: 1
From: Memphis, TN
#32
04-23-2008 | 01:05 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,858
Likes: 0
From: Rohnert Park, CA
#34
04-23-2008 | 01:47 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,858
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From: Rohnert Park, CA
I think this is the one:
http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.as...9&scid=FROOGLE
Looks like it runs right around $210.00 or so
http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.as...9&scid=FROOGLE
Looks like it runs right around $210.00 or so
#35
04-23-2008 | 02:36 PM
Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake, va
#38
04-23-2008 | 03:13 PM
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 860
Likes: 1
From: Memphis, TN
traction bar rant
I think I paid 180 for mine. I wish I had the $109 hook-up
The traction bars are easy to install but a pain in the butt (here's where I explain). I had a buddy of mine help me do it. you basically have 3 parts: rear bracket, bar, and front bracket.
The rear bracket is easy to install. You just unscrew your ubolts and the bracket mounts underneath the axle. It was a pain in the butt because one of my U-bolts fused and we had to replace all of them. It was then that I realized that you can't reuse u-bolts. So i had some fabbed at a shop here in memphis and got the brackets and the rear end all setup.
After reading the instructions, we realized that we would have to do some drilling to get the front brackets in. It was here that we got very lazy and said screw it. I paid a tech at 4wp 20 bucks to weld the front brackets on and there you have it.
So in essence, install can be completely bolt-on. I paid $75 to have 4 extended length u-bolts bent while I waited (it took me longer to find the place then it did for them to make them) and $20 for the welding. If I were to do it again or share advice, I would say buy the u-bolts up front, do the rear yourself, and pay someone to weld front brackets. Theres a whole lot of screwing with the frame and I just got lazy.
Performance-wise: truck is much much much more stable. Rear-end stays put, less sway, i can accelerate and not worry about blowing up my rear end. Next weekend when I go hunting (talk about washboard roads!) I'll be able to talk about the off-road performance.
The traction bars are easy to install but a pain in the butt (here's where I explain). I had a buddy of mine help me do it. you basically have 3 parts: rear bracket, bar, and front bracket.
The rear bracket is easy to install. You just unscrew your ubolts and the bracket mounts underneath the axle. It was a pain in the butt because one of my U-bolts fused and we had to replace all of them. It was then that I realized that you can't reuse u-bolts. So i had some fabbed at a shop here in memphis and got the brackets and the rear end all setup.
After reading the instructions, we realized that we would have to do some drilling to get the front brackets in. It was here that we got very lazy and said screw it. I paid a tech at 4wp 20 bucks to weld the front brackets on and there you have it.
So in essence, install can be completely bolt-on. I paid $75 to have 4 extended length u-bolts bent while I waited (it took me longer to find the place then it did for them to make them) and $20 for the welding. If I were to do it again or share advice, I would say buy the u-bolts up front, do the rear yourself, and pay someone to weld front brackets. Theres a whole lot of screwing with the frame and I just got lazy.
Performance-wise: truck is much much much more stable. Rear-end stays put, less sway, i can accelerate and not worry about blowing up my rear end. Next weekend when I go hunting (talk about washboard roads!) I'll be able to talk about the off-road performance.
#39
04-23-2008 | 04:05 PM
Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake, va
I think I paid 180 for mine. I wish I had the $109 hook-up
The traction bars are easy to install but a pain in the butt (here's where I explain). I had a buddy of mine help me do it. you basically have 3 parts: rear bracket, bar, and front bracket.
The rear bracket is easy to install. You just unscrew your ubolts and the bracket mounts underneath the axle. It was a pain in the butt because one of my U-bolts fused and we had to replace all of them. It was then that I realized that you can't reuse u-bolts. So i had some fabbed at a shop here in memphis and got the brackets and the rear end all setup.
After reading the instructions, we realized that we would have to do some drilling to get the front brackets in. It was here that we got very lazy and said screw it. I paid a tech at 4wp 20 bucks to weld the front brackets on and there you have it.
So in essence, install can be completely bolt-on. I paid $75 to have 4 extended length u-bolts bent while I waited (it took me longer to find the place then it did for them to make them) and $20 for the welding. If I were to do it again or share advice, I would say buy the u-bolts up front, do the rear yourself, and pay someone to weld front brackets. Theres a whole lot of screwing with the frame and I just got lazy.
Performance-wise: truck is much much much more stable. Rear-end stays put, less sway, i can accelerate and not worry about blowing up my rear end. Next weekend when I go hunting (talk about washboard roads!) I'll be able to talk about the off-road performance.
The traction bars are easy to install but a pain in the butt (here's where I explain). I had a buddy of mine help me do it. you basically have 3 parts: rear bracket, bar, and front bracket.
The rear bracket is easy to install. You just unscrew your ubolts and the bracket mounts underneath the axle. It was a pain in the butt because one of my U-bolts fused and we had to replace all of them. It was then that I realized that you can't reuse u-bolts. So i had some fabbed at a shop here in memphis and got the brackets and the rear end all setup.
After reading the instructions, we realized that we would have to do some drilling to get the front brackets in. It was here that we got very lazy and said screw it. I paid a tech at 4wp 20 bucks to weld the front brackets on and there you have it.
So in essence, install can be completely bolt-on. I paid $75 to have 4 extended length u-bolts bent while I waited (it took me longer to find the place then it did for them to make them) and $20 for the welding. If I were to do it again or share advice, I would say buy the u-bolts up front, do the rear yourself, and pay someone to weld front brackets. Theres a whole lot of screwing with the frame and I just got lazy.
Performance-wise: truck is much much much more stable. Rear-end stays put, less sway, i can accelerate and not worry about blowing up my rear end. Next weekend when I go hunting (talk about washboard roads!) I'll be able to talk about the off-road performance.
#40
04-23-2008 | 04:28 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,858
Likes: 0
From: Rohnert Park, CA
I think I paid 180 for mine. I wish I had the $109 hook-up
The traction bars are easy to install but a pain in the butt (here's where I explain). I had a buddy of mine help me do it. you basically have 3 parts: rear bracket, bar, and front bracket.
The rear bracket is easy to install. You just unscrew your ubolts and the bracket mounts underneath the axle. It was a pain in the butt because one of my U-bolts fused and we had to replace all of them. It was then that I realized that you can't reuse u-bolts. So i had some fabbed at a shop here in memphis and got the brackets and the rear end all setup.
After reading the instructions, we realized that we would have to do some drilling to get the front brackets in. It was here that we got very lazy and said screw it. I paid a tech at 4wp 20 bucks to weld the front brackets on and there you have it.
So in essence, install can be completely bolt-on. I paid $75 to have 4 extended length u-bolts bent while I waited (it took me longer to find the place then it did for them to make them) and $20 for the welding. If I were to do it again or share advice, I would say buy the u-bolts up front, do the rear yourself, and pay someone to weld front brackets. Theres a whole lot of screwing with the frame and I just got lazy.
Performance-wise: truck is much much much more stable. Rear-end stays put, less sway, i can accelerate and not worry about blowing up my rear end. Next weekend when I go hunting (talk about washboard roads!) I'll be able to talk about the off-road performance.
The traction bars are easy to install but a pain in the butt (here's where I explain). I had a buddy of mine help me do it. you basically have 3 parts: rear bracket, bar, and front bracket.
The rear bracket is easy to install. You just unscrew your ubolts and the bracket mounts underneath the axle. It was a pain in the butt because one of my U-bolts fused and we had to replace all of them. It was then that I realized that you can't reuse u-bolts. So i had some fabbed at a shop here in memphis and got the brackets and the rear end all setup.
After reading the instructions, we realized that we would have to do some drilling to get the front brackets in. It was here that we got very lazy and said screw it. I paid a tech at 4wp 20 bucks to weld the front brackets on and there you have it.
So in essence, install can be completely bolt-on. I paid $75 to have 4 extended length u-bolts bent while I waited (it took me longer to find the place then it did for them to make them) and $20 for the welding. If I were to do it again or share advice, I would say buy the u-bolts up front, do the rear yourself, and pay someone to weld front brackets. Theres a whole lot of screwing with the frame and I just got lazy.
Performance-wise: truck is much much much more stable. Rear-end stays put, less sway, i can accelerate and not worry about blowing up my rear end. Next weekend when I go hunting (talk about washboard roads!) I'll be able to talk about the off-road performance.
(whatcha hunt for?)
#42
04-23-2008 | 08:16 PM
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 860
Likes: 1
From: Memphis, TN
Mercedes: Tennessee turkeys!
Johnnyt: i paid 180 for the skid plate. I think mercedes said he could get it for 109, but that might have been the blocks (i might have read his post wrong). You can get the blocks for about 120 at most places i think. Traction bars can go for 500 for pro comps, i think 700 for superlifts. I think rize makes a set that you can make work on an f150.
Johnnyt: i paid 180 for the skid plate. I think mercedes said he could get it for 109, but that might have been the blocks (i might have read his post wrong). You can get the blocks for about 120 at most places i think. Traction bars can go for 500 for pro comps, i think 700 for superlifts. I think rize makes a set that you can make work on an f150.
#43
04-24-2008 | 04:59 AM
Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Youngsville NC (Outskirts of Raleigh)
Pro Comp works
My 6" pro Comp has not give me any trouble at all going on 2 years now. Lots of hard mudding and some minor rock crawling (so ta speak)
And it rides and handles curves as good as stock. Nothing has broken as of yet. Had one alignment done in the past year with my usual tire rotation and balance.
Just so you have another opinion to work with.
And it rides and handles curves as good as stock. Nothing has broken as of yet. Had one alignment done in the past year with my usual tire rotation and balance.
Just so you have another opinion to work with.
#44
04-24-2008 | 11:25 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,858
Likes: 0
From: Rohnert Park, CA
$109 is for the Pro Comp rear lift blocks, sorry guys. I think the lowest price for the skid is what TN already said, right around $180.
Turkeys ?
Tis the season right ? And I aven't even got out and nabbedme one yet ! Whats your guy's limit over there ?
JT: Really dig that front light ba. Looks real nice. How heavy duty is it? You think you coud stand on it ? and ho makes it ?
I was looking through your photos and remember seeing that first album before. Gorgeous scenery ! But, is that your truck all torn up in there ? Was there a thread about it ? Looks pretty beat up man, hope everything turned out ok and you were fine.
** oh, and here is the guy who can get some pretty decent prices on lifts, tires, wheels, andother accessories (like lift blocks). Heck, I have gotten all my mods from him.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/members/81799-crash_lucky13.html
Just let him know your a member of this site, and that I sent you over his way. He'll help you out.
Turkeys ?
Tis the season right ? And I aven't even got out and nabbedme one yet ! Whats your guy's limit over there ?JT: Really dig that front light ba. Looks real nice. How heavy duty is it? You think you coud stand on it ? and ho makes it ?
I was looking through your photos and remember seeing that first album before. Gorgeous scenery ! But, is that your truck all torn up in there ? Was there a thread about it ? Looks pretty beat up man, hope everything turned out ok and you were fine.
** oh, and here is the guy who can get some pretty decent prices on lifts, tires, wheels, andother accessories (like lift blocks). Heck, I have gotten all my mods from him.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/members/81799-crash_lucky13.html
Just let him know your a member of this site, and that I sent you over his way. He'll help you out.
#45
04-24-2008 | 12:17 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
From: Montana
Thanks for the info Mercedes. The list of mods never ever ends. If you look carefully in my album (thread is 9/8/7) my FX4 that was rolled twice with 4 people who walked way has the same light bar on it. After buying it back from the insurance retards, the frame was pretty twisted. So I realigned everything and welded in some support. It was a pretty cheesy bar to begin with (especially for $600, I just wrote a review on it)
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=330705
But now I wouldnt have any problem standing on it.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=330705
But now I wouldnt have any problem standing on it.