ok i'm in the process of installing a 6" suspension lift and i've run into some snags. torsion bars will not budge no matter how much pb blaster and force i use with them, sway bar end link can not be removed, i removed the top nut and the bolt will not come out. last but not least, cv joints will not come loose. i've used mass amounts of pb blaster on them but nothing. i've used a 1/2" impact, both electric and air and nothing. any help would be appreciated.thanks justin

 

For the CV joints, if you're referring to the spindle nut, use a breaker bar on them. Wedge a large pry bar across a pair of the lug nuts (install the nuts on the studs) then use a good 24" breaker bar with a cheater pipe if necessary. If it's the spline that's stuck, put the nut on the threads loosely, then hold a brass hammer on the end of the stud, then whack the end of the threads with a baby sledge. If necessary, use a large 3-jaw puller to apply a massive amount of force, then whack it... It'll come loose.

For the sway bar end link, cut them off. You can't re-use them anyways.

For the torsion bars, once you've released the tension on them, you may need to use a pipe wrench with a cheater pipe on them. I had one here at work that took a 3 foot pipe wrench with a 4 foot cheater pipe and most of my weight before it broke loose.

Good luck!

 

thanks for the response and sorry i didn't clarify more on the cv joints but what i am referring to are the actual bolts that go into the differential. they will not budge whatsoever.

 

ok i've got it down to just the torsion bars now and no amount of pb blaster will work, no matter how long i leave that torch on there i get nothing. i'll try that pipe wrench tomorrow and see if that works. if anybody else has got any ideas let me know. thanks again,

Justin

 

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE.... Let me know what did/didn't do....I'm at the beginning of a new clutch kit/slave cyl. I am at an absolute stand-still until I can get my torsion bars freed up. P.S.: When I say beginning, I mean I'm 3 days into it, and the furthest I've got is, 1) Both driveshafts removed. 2) All crossmember bolts out (minus trans mount assy). That's about it...
So, if you could please, please, please let me know what you've found out.
Thanks,
Steve

 

Nevermind...I had to resort to an air hammer. Got'em out.

 

which end did you hit it out with and what chissel did you use?

 

I run into this quite often with the 88-98 chevys and 97-03 F150s. You can leave the torsion bar in the lca and still do the entire lift. You do need to get the key off of the torsion bar so you can remove the rail since you have to lower it down anyways. So take out all of the bolts holding the torsion rail to the frame and then you'll want to air hammer on the key directly from the front going to the back. There will be a big hole in the torsion rail where you can access the key. You may need to heat the key up to break the rust loose and expand the metal (don't heat the torsion bar, just the key). I'm assuming you have the torsion bolt out and the keys unloaded because you don't want any tension when you're trying to do this. If you have to heat the key up a lot you may want to purchase a new set from Ford or find someone who put lift keys on their truck and still has their factory ones on. You should try some good penetrating oil like zep 45 or pb blaster and if that doesn't work then heat the key up.

 

tried an air hammer today and nothing. i'm going nuts with these torsion bars. this is all thats holding me back from moving on with the lift.

 

anybody? went at it again today with the little time i have and got nowhere, used the pipe wrench and destroyed a tapered punch chissel with the air hammer. used a propane torch and then the air hammer and nothing. took out all bolts to the crossmember. just getting nowhere folks, getting to the point where its ridiculous. any help would be appreciated.

 

Trying to remove just the keys, right? I had to go from the front of the x-member. There's just enough room to get in there with an air hammer. Seriously, just barely. You'll have to work at it to the point of where your hands go numb, you're deaf, and you feel as if the truck is going to drop on top of you. Try the following....: 1) Have a beer or 3. 2) Crawl under there and give the keys a decent SOAK of PB...3) Wait a while....I waited a day....I know, IT KILLS to wait that long after all the bull****, but it's worth it...really. 4) You'll notice the holes on the front side of the crossmember. Well, one hole(where the t-bar feeds through) and a notch (where the key retainer goes). Just beat the **** out of the keys (from the front, as to knock them backwards). You'll have two shiny spots on each key when you're done....and slight indentations on the keys. When you've removed them.....(Don't worry, you'll get'em out!) You'll be happy, and truly know the meaning of "Built Ford Tough". I'm still not done with the over-engineered slave cylinder/clutch job I was doing. Trust me dude. You'll get it! BTW...What kind of bit are you using in the hammer? I HAD to use the narrowest one I could find.
I hope this helps somewhat, this is more or less, the best I can do, for now, throw me your e-mail add. and I show you the pics of the keys when I was finished with mine...I can't figure out how to post on here.
OH....One more thing, Take ALL of the hardware out from the x-member out, if you haven't already. That way the keys will move back w/ the crossmember. AND....DO NOT....repeat....DO NOT be under the keys when they drop. They'll either put a huge dent in your forehead, or ruin any chance of procreation, whatsoever. Those keys ain't light!!!
Steve

 

Nevermind....I should have read the other posts first...."This just in from the 'Department of Redundancy Department'". But, seriously; beer is good. And, one more.....while hammering away, use a prybar on the opposite side of the key. Pushing it back at the same time to keep it from binding up. And grease them when you've got them out. The bars, and the inside of the keys. That's the best I can do for ya. Wish I was there to help.

 

 

thanks for the response, my e-mail is woody3344@msn.com and believe me, plenty of beer has been consumed, sometimes i think i do more drinking then working.

 

the bit i'm using is a tapered punch and honestly i dont think that air hammer has enough power behind it, i've been going back and forth from the air hammer and a small sledge and large punch. nothing yet, i'm going back out to work some more(had to get more beer first), wish me luck.