Pro Comp 6in. w/ coil spacers and add-a-leaf
#16
10-08-2008, 06:29 PM
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#17
10-09-2008, 02:27 AM
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#19
10-09-2008, 06:48 PM
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[QUOTE=sbchris;3405189]Who sells the drive shaft spacer? I can't find it online when I did a few searches.
4 wheel parts said they sell a fabtech spacer for 114... kind of expensive for what it is...[/QUOTE
i got my spacer for my truck from 4wheelparts for $80 with installation
i have the 8" rize kit. y don't you want it?
4 wheel parts said they sell a fabtech spacer for 114... kind of expensive for what it is...[/QUOTE
i got my spacer for my truck from 4wheelparts for $80 with installation
i have the 8" rize kit. y don't you want it?
#20
10-10-2008, 11:14 AM
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Just because I am in highschool right now and dont have enough money to buy a whole new lift. Plus i do drive 90 miles a day for school so the 37's is somthing i want to do, but not on the top of my priority list. I have to pay for most of my gas, so i dont really need 37's, its killin my right now with just 35's.
#21
10-10-2008, 05:12 PM
I was just curious if it was tapered or not. That would have saved me from having to shim my leaf-pack.
Right now, I'm running a "5.5" inch RCD block and and add-a-leaf. Actually, the block is only 5 inches. But it isn't isn't tapered, so I had to shim it. I put a shim between the block and leaf spring, which added about another .5 inch.
The problem with a tall, non-tapered block is that they'll increase your wheelbase by about an inch.....which doesn't help driveshaft length. After I shimmed the block so it sits vertical and added the add-a-leaf, I actually have MORE slip yoke in the transfer-case than I did with the block alone. This is partially because my pinion is rotated farther up that what it should be. I have a nearly zero driveshaft angle at the pinion. It "should" vibrate.....but doesn't. So I seem to be alright without the driveshaft spacer. My yoke is only about .75 inches farther out than stock. I could see how it could be a problem with the shorter supercrew driveshaft.
Hey thanks Jspeers!! I don't have a gallery cause I haven't had a chance to wash my truck since I got my wheels........had to wait nearly 2 months for them. But when I get it cleaned up, I'll try to snap a few more pics. For now, this is all I got:
Right now, I'm running a "5.5" inch RCD block and and add-a-leaf. Actually, the block is only 5 inches. But it isn't isn't tapered, so I had to shim it. I put a shim between the block and leaf spring, which added about another .5 inch.
The problem with a tall, non-tapered block is that they'll increase your wheelbase by about an inch.....which doesn't help driveshaft length. After I shimmed the block so it sits vertical and added the add-a-leaf, I actually have MORE slip yoke in the transfer-case than I did with the block alone. This is partially because my pinion is rotated farther up that what it should be. I have a nearly zero driveshaft angle at the pinion. It "should" vibrate.....but doesn't. So I seem to be alright without the driveshaft spacer. My yoke is only about .75 inches farther out than stock. I could see how it could be a problem with the shorter supercrew driveshaft.
Hey thanks Jspeers!! I don't have a gallery cause I haven't had a chance to wash my truck since I got my wheels........had to wait nearly 2 months for them. But when I get it cleaned up, I'll try to snap a few more pics. For now, this is all I got:
#22
10-10-2008, 09:41 PM
#23
10-11-2008, 04:57 AM
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Hey, I'm gonna wash it tomorrow and take some pics. It's 4.5 inch brackets with 6 inch inch Bilsteins.....approx 7 inches in the front. 5" block +.5 shim + 2.5" AAL in the back. It sits slightly higer in the rear.....so that I'm not sagging with 700lbs of ATV in the bed. And, I tow......heavy stuff. That's why I went with wheels with 6" backspacing.....to avoid adding extra leverage to the rear axle. You can't run wheels with that much backspacing on the RCD and Fabtech kits. Plus, both of those kits increase track width 1.5 inches per side. So, using one of those kits I would have had to used wheels with less backspacing AND space them out an additional 1.5 inches in the back so that they matched the front. That's alot of extra stress on the rear axle that I don't want if I'm pulling a 12,000 mini excavator!!
So that's why I went with my current setup. And it wasn't cheap either. I threw away most of the stuff that came in the Superlift box. And bought almost an entire RCD kit piece by piece. I'm still waiting on a couple things......like brakelines. The RCD stainless lines were......well lets just say they wouldn't work. Still waiting on replacments. I have the RCD stainless steel lateral compression struts that I haven't mounted yet. I'm working on some way to relocate the sway bar to BEHIND the drop brackets. And, no, you can't simply remove the drop brackets and put the sway bar back in the factory location. On the Superlift, the sway bar drop brackets are actually a structual component in the crossmember assmebly. Combined with the bellypan, they eliminate the need for compression struts. But, I wanted the struts anyways cause they "look cool".
I seriously doubt you want to go through all the trouble I had to go through. But if you don't mind having your wheels stick out a little more.......and you don't need the extra ground clearance and skid plate up front.....the easiest thing to do is: get the 6" lift of your choice. Put both an add-a-leaf and a tall block in the back. And then shim up the front a little bit...untill you get the right "stance" you're looking for. Like maybe get the Procomp kit. Get the optional 5.5" block and add-a-leaf. And then put some leveling Bilsteins up front. They have several settings, which would allow you to set the front just where you want it. I also believe the Pro-Comp kit doesn't widen the front trackwidth?? Maybe someone else can confirm??
So that's why I went with my current setup. And it wasn't cheap either. I threw away most of the stuff that came in the Superlift box. And bought almost an entire RCD kit piece by piece. I'm still waiting on a couple things......like brakelines. The RCD stainless lines were......well lets just say they wouldn't work. Still waiting on replacments. I have the RCD stainless steel lateral compression struts that I haven't mounted yet. I'm working on some way to relocate the sway bar to BEHIND the drop brackets. And, no, you can't simply remove the drop brackets and put the sway bar back in the factory location. On the Superlift, the sway bar drop brackets are actually a structual component in the crossmember assmebly. Combined with the bellypan, they eliminate the need for compression struts. But, I wanted the struts anyways cause they "look cool".
I seriously doubt you want to go through all the trouble I had to go through. But if you don't mind having your wheels stick out a little more.......and you don't need the extra ground clearance and skid plate up front.....the easiest thing to do is: get the 6" lift of your choice. Put both an add-a-leaf and a tall block in the back. And then shim up the front a little bit...untill you get the right "stance" you're looking for. Like maybe get the Procomp kit. Get the optional 5.5" block and add-a-leaf. And then put some leveling Bilsteins up front. They have several settings, which would allow you to set the front just where you want it. I also believe the Pro-Comp kit doesn't widen the front trackwidth?? Maybe someone else can confirm??