Might keep it and ugrade?

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  #31  
Old 11-19-2008 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Code
If you go with leafs there's no coil overs or 4 links to do. A 4 link is not for looks...it has it's own set of advantages just like leafs, or RA's do. You will want to scrap both stock axles for 1 ton axles IMO. For those saying to buy a f2/350. You'd need to do most of the same suspension mods to get the same amount of performance so that's moot. Bout the only thing you'd gain there is a steering box. I don't think i'd care for the diesel offroad but that's me.

Buy vs. Build?
BUILD!!!


I wont be able to build is my only thing bc i will be in Iraq while the truck is getting done and wont see anything of it till i get home. Its going to be my christmas present to myself haha. I will have someone drive it somewhere for it to be built.

Also so heres the plan then its gonna be an SAS that will fit up too 42s. Leaf springs in the rear. Four link conversion with Fox coilovers up front shocks and foxs in the rear.

Now questions are after looking at that other thread of the guy who also did an SAS is that like the same set up that i keep talking about? Not too sure what exactly his is. https://www.f150online.com/forums/su...-sas-swap.html

Besides doing the SAS what are some other things i do need or will have to upgrade on the truck? Bc i saw that he upgraded his t-case. Do i need too? will it wear faster if i dont? What about transmission? Would like to know exactly everything that i will have to buy or get too get this SAS done.
 

Last edited by mhockey9090; 11-19-2008 at 09:00 PM.
  #32  
Old 11-19-2008 | 09:14 PM
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Decide wether you want 4 link or leaf sprung dont combine them.

the trans and t-case you can swap out later if you want to swap a different engine in.

Anything can be upgraded. Atlas t-cases are amazing. they make doubler kits. Id say chromoly axle shafts would be an upgrade. Hydro steering is a nice setup but gotta have a permit to run it on the street. Traction bars are a must if you plan on alot of torque.

Id say delete all the blocks and have it custom leaf packs. It will take about 15-17" of lift to clear 41's but id go alittle taller incase you want 44's some day.

If the frame hasnt been boxed in id say that would be a must.
 
  #33  
Old 11-19-2008 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 4.2trimble
Decide wether you want 4 link or leaf sprung dont combine them.

the trans and t-case you can swap out later if you want to swap a different engine in.

Anything can be upgraded. Atlas t-cases are amazing. they make doubler kits. Id say chromoly axle shafts would be an upgrade. Hydro steering is a nice setup but gotta have a permit to run it on the street. Traction bars are a must if you plan on alot of torque.

Id say delete all the blocks and have it custom leaf packs. It will take about 15-17" of lift to clear 41's but id go alittle taller incase you want 44's some day.

If the frame hasnt been boxed in id say that would be a must.



4 Link would be alot nicer and may be the road i go with this but if the money comes into play then it will be the leaf springs. So well play that one out. Right now it just seems like so much trying to squeeze into me and trying to learn at the same time with this as well. Hopefully i can get a hold of some good custom shops around here or even if i have to drive somewhere to get this done thats fine. If you guys could help me out with that too that would be great. Now hyrdo steering is that alot to run that setup? How would i go along in getting a permit for that? What do you mean by deleting all blocks? The rear stock blocks in the back? The more knowledge i have about this will be better when i start calling Custom Shops tomorrow and talking to with about what i want. Sorry if im asking a lot of questions i just want to know exactly everything im going to need to do in order for this too turn out into one of the best investments i have made by throwing so much money into it as well.
 
  #34  
Old 11-19-2008 | 09:35 PM
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Well im just a little confused here , i thought the point in a SAS was to give your truck a stronger foundation up front and eliminate trouble spots etc...... if its a street queen whats the point.??? and one more thing is if its on pavement it will never see 4wd so wtf the only thing practical i could see is throwing a procharger on it and roasting all 4 that would be badd ***
 

Last edited by x_sgs_x; 11-19-2008 at 09:41 PM.
  #35  
Old 11-19-2008 | 09:36 PM
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also what do you mean by boxed in ?
 
  #36  
Old 11-19-2008 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by x_sgs_x
Well im just a little confused here , i thought the point in a SAS was to give your truck a stronger foundation up front and eliminate trouble spots etc...... if its a street queen whats the point.???

Well if its going to cost me just a little bit more in doing this thats fine. Plus stronger foundation means less breaking parts even though its a street queen. Bc i will be running 41s 0r 42s. If i were to put that with a 12inch rize and 3 inch body lift and Camburg UCAs im sure i will still break something. Plus i will need gears to run with those 41s or 42s so now saying that i cant run anything higher than 4.88s so just right there im screwed. Ill deff break something. Why not its going to be one of the most bad *** f150s on this site and it will be paid off so what the heck. Only live once right?
 
  #37  
Old 11-19-2008 | 09:50 PM
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This is my dream set up
I think you should do all the suspension stuff but dropping in a diesel would just make it totally awesome
Good luck
 
  #38  
Old 11-19-2008 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 4.2trimble

I cant believe you guys. Telling the man to start payments on another $50K+ truck.

Powerstrokes are ahh blah. All new diesels IMO are ahhh blah. They have too much emission control systems that are sucking power and mileage from them.

And if you want to get a diesel to drop in your truck skip the powerstroke. Go for a Cummins 12v they are hands and feet better than Powerstroke or duramax.

I see there are 2 types of people on this site, people that buy their crap, and people that build what they want.


I've built both my trucks to how i want them. I've paid my money for both, and done all installation myself. Yes, I'm still not done with them, and yes i want to do a lot more but I'm still in high school dude, don't tell me I don't build my trucks. I didn't say he had to buy a brand new one either. Get a used diesel, they go for YEARS.

AND, as for emissions control, mine has none, its a '95, thanks.

AND, as for a cummins, yea they are great motors, but the technology that's put around them is total JUNK. Dodge ruins those trucks by putting the pieces of crap that they produce all around that motor. If he were to drop a diesel motor into the F150, I would definately say go with a cummins or 7.3 liter powerstroke, that way there's no problems.


But i still believe the 2004- up body style with lifts ont hem look sick! (yes i know it's 2 different body styles, the new ones look good to)
 
  #39  
Old 11-19-2008 | 10:13 PM
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We have a 2000 Powerstroke diesel in our shop with 330,000 miles only problem a leaking trans dipstick.
 
  #40  
Old 11-19-2008 | 10:18 PM
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That's that good ol' 7.3 liter powerstroke my friend!!!

although, my friend has a '99 F150 4.6 with 300,000 miles and it's running strong!

haha, the danged thing barely gets it's oil changed and had it's spark plugs changed for the FIRST time ever at 280,000 miles. haha.

sorry for getting off topic!
 
  #41  
Old 11-19-2008 | 10:28 PM
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the chuckstrucks.net have a hydro kit. they sell it for 1500 i think. Im sure thats around average. Not sure what all that includes but you will still need some tubing im sure. Dom is the most common.

What i mean by delete the blocks. When you setup the leaf springs only keep the one block that you need to set the springs on dont get those lift blocks that they sell for cheaper lifts. If you spend money you will want to do it right. Id seriously consider powder coating the suspension and axles this will keep them looking nice for as long as possible.

What i mean by boxing in the frame is that the frame on my truck looks like a U turned on its side to box it or sleeve it would be to turn that U into a square basically add another side. I dont know if the newer F150's are like this or not. If not then id do it for added stregth to the frame. Its not mandatory but i like it. Another thing that helps is more crossmembers. Im making my front crossmember right now. It will connect the VERY front of the frame rails together. Then ill make a bumper for that.

And RJ when i say build vs buy... its stuf thats not bolt on crap. Its custom something no one has a kit for that just bolts right up. If you buy a RIZE kit and install it i applaud you. If you go out grow a pair... and custom leaf/link/rad a D60/2.5ton/5ton into a IFS truck then you are BUILDING. Im working on this now on my 99 i have the D60 and still in search of a good rear. Ill be running 38's 5.13 gears. Hopefully ill take the bed off and but a flat bed on it. Ive only been working on this for about a month or so i still got ALOT to do.

And ill take that poor technology 12v Cummins over any powerstroke. Ive driven a few 7.3's i drive the POS PowerStroke SD at work everyday. and they are just that POS. I cant blame ford on it either the emission systems are draining that motor. Those same standards would drain the 12v or 7.3. Ive drove 1 24v and was soooo disapointed in it i thought i was gonna puke.

Like CODE said diesels are the "perferred" engine offroad. They weigh alot but they are also alot easier to make power and torque with. Which with my style of ofroading is all that is needed weight doesnt matter as much. If you are rock crawling then id say no to a big diesel. But mud is another story.

And Hockey i give you mad props for wanting to do this. Even with a shop doing it. It sometimes is uneasy knowing they are cutting your truck all up. But if you dont have the skills to fab it yourself then deffinitely go get it done.
 
  #42  
Old 11-19-2008 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 4.2trimble

And Hockey i give you mad props for wanting to do this. Even with a shop doing it. It sometimes is uneasy knowing they are cutting your truck all up. But if you dont have the skills to fab it yourself then deffinitely go get it done.
and custom leaf/link/rad a D60/2.5ton/5ton into a IFS truck

Thanks alot man and just a quick question? By this statement you said above me here does this mean that i can just buy those axles and have some one install thoses and then install the 12inch rize with fox coil overs and fox shocks for the rear and 3inch body lift and camburg UCAs and still work out with those big of tires?While not putting major wear on parts or even breaking them?Would it be just as good as an SAS? And be cheaper than just going totally 4linked with coil overs, hydro steering SAS and all that?
 

Last edited by mhockey9090; 11-19-2008 at 10:47 PM.
  #43  
Old 11-19-2008 | 10:56 PM
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No you arent getting it totally. I was just listing those. all those where different types of SAS's and axles that can be used. the only real way to maintain good performance with huge tires and alot of power is though a solid axle. D60 is a popular one. 2.5 Rockwells are used more for offraod only rigs but i have seen some on the road every now and then. but the gearing on those are pretty low like 6's i think.

From what i have read a Leaf Sprung SAS will be cheaper than a 4 link. this is because of its simplicity. When you 4-link it you have to have a sub frame made of tubing and all trianglated stuff it can get really annoying setting this up. Which is why its more expensive.
 
  #44  
Old 11-19-2008 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 4.2trimble
No you arent getting it totally. I was just listing those. all those where different types of SAS's and axles that can be used. the only real way to maintain good performance with huge tires and alot of power is though a solid axle. D60 is a popular one. 2.5 Rockwells are used more for offraod only rigs but i have seen some on the road every now and then. but the gearing on those are pretty low like 6's i think.

From what i have read a Leaf Sprung SAS will be cheaper than a 4 link. this is because of its simplicity. When you 4-link it you have to have a sub frame made of tubing and all trianglated stuff it can get really annoying setting this up. Which is why its more expensive.

Yeah so i got it figured out now and know what i am gonna do when i get my money in.

-SAS 4link if the money is there if not then leaf springs.
-Fox coils up front. Fox shocks all around ( If leaf springs then Fox Shocks all around).
-Hydro Steering most likely.
-Hopefully everything powercoated black
- 41X14.5 R18 Iroks-44s in the long run.
-Anything that i missed that i cant think of.
-Extras i cant think of right now haha.
 
  #45  
Old 11-19-2008 | 11:06 PM
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theres ALOT of little things like mounting tabs, drag links, and such but normally the builder will let you know what he needs. Then either buy it or have him add it to the install fee.
 


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