Might keep it and ugrade?

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  #46  
Old 11-19-2008 | 11:11 PM
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sounds good. I will be in iraq when all this is getting done and dont wanna see pictures of the final set up till i actually get home haha its going to be my own christmas present to myself sense i will be missing 2 of them haha. Thanks for your help and i will be adding more and more to my truck as this comes along and then ill be in store for another truck once i get back as well. Like i said man i appreciate all your help. Hopefully ill be moving back to florida to wheel with you guys after i get back.
 
  #47  
Old 11-19-2008 | 11:18 PM
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ok man good luck. Ill be waiting to see what happens. keep me updated.
 
  #48  
Old 11-20-2008 | 12:44 PM
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wow... this sure did take off.

You can mix leaf and four link. There is not a single problem with that, its run ALL the time. Currently I am working on gettin some Yota axles for my Sami project (gotta go pick em up.... but I have em). One I got that, I will run a 4 link in the rear, and Jeep YJ LEAF springs up front. I know plenty of rigs running something similar. So, if you want one end linked, go for it. Would help keep cost down by only do one end, and would improve ride quality.

hydro steering = generally illegal on the street. How can cops tell ? Thats a risk you run. Hydro steering isn't the best for a pavement pounding street truck. Trust me. Its a whole different animal. I would stick with regular steering box or rack and pinion. I would maybe consdier hydro-assist. Where you have a hydro ram that HELPS turn your tires, but doesn't do all the work itself. Its a helper.

Don't need a new t-case. He went with a crazy aftermarket one, because he wanted a lower cral ratio. T-case is some of the best ways to bring your crawl down. Not needed though, unless you plan to crawl.

If you want 44" tires in the long run, get those. build the truck around those. It would be your best bet, and best way to spend money IMO.

by "boxed in" he is refferring to the frame. Normal frame are similar to a C-channel or I-beam. To "box it in" means literally that. Weld plates of metal around it to make it a box. Much stronger. Good thing you have a newer F150, frame comes boxed from factory !

I know I missed a ton of stuff I wanted to cover... oh well. Any questions, ask away.

Oh, and I forgot where your located. How close is Alabama to you ??? How long of a drive ? I know one of the best Fab shops around, and they are located down there, in Birmingham. Let me know.
 
  #49  
Old 11-20-2008 | 03:37 PM
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i'm real close to birmingham

Whats so bad about 6.4's? The problem isnt the engine, its the exhaust system. You are buying the engine, not the exhaust right? If you drop the engine in and are required to change out PCM with a superduty PCM then just get a DPF delete programmer and call it a day. I don't see how you are breaking any laws, YOU haven't removed anything if you are just buying the engine. The only problem you will run into in this case is price. A new 6.4L PSD will be really expensive. Look used for wrecked one, a 6.0L, or the 7.3L. I have a 6.4L in my psd and its a rocket off the line. Even with those crap 3.73's, heavy crap 20" rims and 35's everyone who has ridden in it feels it on the butt dyno.
 
  #50  
Old 11-20-2008 | 03:51 PM
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I know its is different from state to state, but in order to do ANY engine swaps out here, it must be at least the same year as your model truck, or newer. You can't back pedal. Just thought I'd throw that out there.
 
  #51  
Old 11-20-2008 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 4.2trimble
And RJ when i say build vs buy... its stuf thats not bolt on crap. Its custom something no one has a kit for that just bolts right up. If you buy a RIZE kit and install it i applaud you. If you go out grow a pair... and custom leaf/link/rad a D60/2.5ton/5ton into a IFS truck then you are BUILDING. Im working on this now on my 99 i have the D60 and still in search of a good rear. Ill be running 38's 5.13 gears. Hopefully ill take the bed off and but a flat bed on it. Ive only been working on this for about a month or so i still got ALOT to do.

And ill take that poor technology 12v Cummins over any powerstroke. Ive driven a few 7.3's i drive the POS PowerStroke SD at work everyday. and they are just that POS. I cant blame ford on it either the emission systems are draining that motor. Those same standards would drain the 12v or 7.3. Ive drove 1 24v and was soooo disapointed in it i thought i was gonna puke.

Like CODE said diesels are the "perferred" engine offroad. They weigh alot but they are also alot easier to make power and torque with. Which with my style of ofroading is all that is needed weight doesnt matter as much. If you are rock crawling then id say no to a big diesel. But mud is another story.

And Hockey i give you mad props for wanting to do this. Even with a shop doing it. It sometimes is uneasy knowing they are cutting your truck all up. But if you dont have the skills to fab it yourself then deffinitely go get it done.





Just because i haven't swapped an engine, or thrown a lift on my trucks, dosen't mean i don't build them.

That 7.3 liter motor is damn near bulletproof. And mine's pumping out over 600 HP, don't tell me that's not a built truck. I've got more stuff under the hood of my diesel than your head can even comprehend.

I'm not trying to start no S**T, i'm just saying, IMO that motor is indestructible.

And you STILL can't tell me i don't build my trucks.

Even on my F150, the only thing i really have is exhaust, i still bought my own muffler and custom bent my own pipes, and welded it all myself. I understand that's not the stuff you're getting into, you're talking more technical, but it's just an example for you, i don't do bolt-ons, i do it myself.

Haha, like i said man, not trying to start anything with you, and it's all in good fun, i just don't like being told how I do stuff.
 
  #52  
Old 11-20-2008 | 04:51 PM
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If you get a 6.4 and do a DPF and cat delete along with a Spartan Tuner and an intake you will be making a crazy amount of power.
 
  #53  
Old 11-20-2008 | 05:02 PM
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i think you shoudl worry about your suspension. With all that said an done, then perhaps look into a diesel. but check laws in your area regarding this. It wouldn't pass anything out here. It could only be used as a Farm truck or off road toy if you swapped in the diesel. Just look into it.
 
  #54  
Old 11-20-2008 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MercedesTech
i think you shoudl worry about your suspension. With all that said an done, then perhaps look into a diesel. but check laws in your area regarding this. It wouldn't pass anything out here. It could only be used as a Farm truck or off road toy if you swapped in the diesel. Just look into it.
Yeah that is very true. All states are different. Florida has no emissions testing so we can get away with alot more around here.
 
  #55  
Old 11-20-2008 | 06:33 PM
Drdudsads
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Nothing sounds meaner than a turbo on a lifted diesel smoking the 40's through a intersection will beating a mustang!
 
  #56  
Old 11-20-2008 | 06:44 PM
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From: Rohnert Park, CA
Originally Posted by Desert Racer
Nothing sounds meaner than a turbo on a lifted diesel smoking the 40's through a intersection will beating a mustang!
AMEN !

I have a buddy, its only on 35" cooper tires (the all terrain version) and man ! He can chirp through every gear ! while towing, he still races ricers and what not, and WINS !! its so awesome watching it billow a black cloud. Makes me drool.... unless I am behind him. Then it makes me cuss....
 
  #57  
Old 11-20-2008 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by MercedesTech
wow... this sure did take off.

You can mix leaf and four link. There is not a single problem with that, its run ALL the time. Currently I am working on gettin some Yota axles for my Sami project (gotta go pick em up.... but I have em). One I got that, I will run a 4 link in the rear, and Jeep YJ LEAF springs up front. I know plenty of rigs running something similar. So, if you want one end linked, go for it. Would help keep cost down by only do one end, and would improve ride quality.

hydro steering = generally illegal on the street. How can cops tell ? Thats a risk you run. Hydro steering isn't the best for a pavement pounding street truck. Trust me. Its a whole different animal. I would stick with regular steering box or rack and pinion. I would maybe consdier hydro-assist. Where you have a hydro ram that HELPS turn your tires, but doesn't do all the work itself. Its a helper.

Don't need a new t-case. He went with a crazy aftermarket one, because he wanted a lower cral ratio. T-case is some of the best ways to bring your crawl down. Not needed though, unless you plan to crawl.

If you want 44" tires in the long run, get those. build the truck around those. It would be your best bet, and best way to spend money IMO.

by "boxed in" he is refferring to the frame. Normal frame are similar to a C-channel or I-beam. To "box it in" means literally that. Weld plates of metal around it to make it a box. Much stronger. Good thing you have a newer F150, frame comes boxed from factory !

I know I missed a ton of stuff I wanted to cover... oh well. Any questions, ask away.

Oh, and I forgot where your located. How close is Alabama to you ??? How long of a drive ? I know one of the best Fab shops around, and they are located down there, in Birmingham. Let me know.

Thanks alot MT both you and trimble have been a good help with this. I always liked the looks of a four link so hey if the money is there im throwing it all in there so well see what i get but its still gonna come out bad *** haha either way.

I looked it up to that one shop that other guy went too and its about 800 miles away from where i am here in texas which isnt bad at all. I can drive the truck there or have someone else do it while im gone and get the process started. When its done i could either have it shipped back or maybe drive it back it all depends. Whats the shops name? Contact info? Anything closer but if not then they will be the ones ?
 
  #58  
Old 11-20-2008 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MercedesTech
I know its is different from state to state, but in order to do ANY engine swaps out here, it must be at least the same year as your model truck, or newer. You can't back pedal. Just thought I'd throw that out there.
Interesting- I did not know that.
 
  #59  
Old 11-21-2008 | 01:34 PM
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Contact info from that place by any chance MT? Know of anywhere closer? If not then they will be the ones
 
  #60  
Old 11-21-2008 | 01:47 PM
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this is there website, witht he contact info. You can look around the site and see some of their work.

http://www.bluetorchfab.com/contact.html

I will look into other local shops. I know there are ones closer. These people carry quite "the name" with them, and are well known. But I am sure you can find equally awesome of work with out the name brand. I will keep looking.
 


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