Need 8" of rear lift.....no blocks if possible
#16
Awesome! I'm adding the Camburgs to the list then! I already have a little bit of nibble about half of the time with just my 2" leveler and my 35's and I don't want any more!
What about axle shims and longer drive shafts? Do I need those or will I be good with what I get in the lift kit? I noticed that the picture for the Rize 6" blocks were angle cut but the description says they are flat. I'm gonna call the place I'm ordering them from before I buy to clarify but.....
FX4life....did your Rize blocks incorporate the shim and give the axle the right angle?
Do I need to worry about the drive shafts at 8" or is it just 10"+ that those need to be addressed?
What about axle shims and longer drive shafts? Do I need those or will I be good with what I get in the lift kit? I noticed that the picture for the Rize 6" blocks were angle cut but the description says they are flat. I'm gonna call the place I'm ordering them from before I buy to clarify but.....
FX4life....did your Rize blocks incorporate the shim and give the axle the right angle?
Do I need to worry about the drive shafts at 8" or is it just 10"+ that those need to be addressed?
#17
#18
I think I'm gonna do this in stages over the next few months or so even though it would be cheaper to do it all at once. I'm going to get the Pro Comp stage 1 installed but instead of the 5.5" block I'm gonna go with the Pro Comp AAL I have and the otional 4" block.
The next stage after that will be the 4.88's.
Then the next stage(I hesitate to say 'last stage' because we all know that the modifications will never end) will be Billsteins front and back set and the 4" block will come out to be replaced by the Rize Industries 6" block. That will give me the room I need in order to put the 37's on.
Should I just check the driveshaft/u joint play after I install the 6" and assess from there?
Any thoughts on the angles?
The next stage after that will be the 4.88's.
Then the next stage(I hesitate to say 'last stage' because we all know that the modifications will never end) will be Billsteins front and back set and the 4" block will come out to be replaced by the Rize Industries 6" block. That will give me the room I need in order to put the 37's on.
Should I just check the driveshaft/u joint play after I install the 6" and assess from there?
Any thoughts on the angles?
#19
im not sure if i missed something or if everyone else missed it...
you are gonna be runnin 6" of lift in the front then with the leveling kit/ bilistiens you will be at 8" of FRONT LIFT. Correct?
Why do you want the rear at 8" aswell, the truck will not sit level this way, its going to be about an 1" lower or so. If im looking at this right.
Im not as good with the new f150's but doesnt the procomp retain that factory Rake?
you are gonna be runnin 6" of lift in the front then with the leveling kit/ bilistiens you will be at 8" of FRONT LIFT. Correct?
Why do you want the rear at 8" aswell, the truck will not sit level this way, its going to be about an 1" lower or so. If im looking at this right.
Im not as good with the new f150's but doesnt the procomp retain that factory Rake?
#20
Pro Comps kits have 3 different options as far the rear blocks go if I'm not mistaken. They have a 3", 4" and 5.5".
My truck from the factory has a 2"(possibly 1 5/8" because I have read conflicting reports and have yet to measure mine) rear block and resulted in a 2" higher rear when I measured it initially. I added a 2" front leveler kit and now my truck sits perfectly level. The same could have been achieved by removing the 2" block but the truck would be sitting lower. Sooooo... by removing the factory 2" block and adding a 2" AAL + the Rize 6" block to the rear and adding 8" of lift to the front via the stage 1 and Bilsteins set at 2", the truck will sit level but 8" higher. Make sense now?
My truck from the factory has a 2"(possibly 1 5/8" because I have read conflicting reports and have yet to measure mine) rear block and resulted in a 2" higher rear when I measured it initially. I added a 2" front leveler kit and now my truck sits perfectly level. The same could have been achieved by removing the 2" block but the truck would be sitting lower. Sooooo... by removing the factory 2" block and adding a 2" AAL + the Rize 6" block to the rear and adding 8" of lift to the front via the stage 1 and Bilsteins set at 2", the truck will sit level but 8" higher. Make sense now?
#22
#23
#24
Hey FoMoCoFan17......
What backspacing do you have on your wheels?
4.75 and I stuck with a 12.5 wide tire just to be safe
What 5" block are you talking about? Do you mean the Pro Comp 5.5" or is it another brand?
Fabtech - (this was before production of the 5.5" from ProComp)
Do you have a driveshaft spacer added?
Nope
Do you have a shim in the blocks also?
Nope
Sorry for the laundry list of questions!
It's cool... Any more just feel free to ask!
What backspacing do you have on your wheels?
4.75 and I stuck with a 12.5 wide tire just to be safe
What 5" block are you talking about? Do you mean the Pro Comp 5.5" or is it another brand?
Fabtech - (this was before production of the 5.5" from ProComp)
Do you have a driveshaft spacer added?
Nope
Do you have a shim in the blocks also?
Nope
Sorry for the laundry list of questions!
It's cool... Any more just feel free to ask!
#25
Pro Comps kits have 3 different options as far the rear blocks go if I'm not mistaken. They have a 3", 4" and 5.5".
My truck from the factory has a 2"(possibly 1 5/8" because I have read conflicting reports and have yet to measure mine) rear block and resulted in a 2" higher rear when I measured it initially. I added a 2" front leveler kit and now my truck sits perfectly level. The same could have been achieved by removing the 2" block but the truck would be sitting lower. Sooooo... by removing the factory 2" block and adding a 2" AAL + the Rize 6" block to the rear and adding 8" of lift to the front via the stage 1 and Bilsteins set at 2", the truck will sit level but 8" higher. Make sense now?
My truck from the factory has a 2"(possibly 1 5/8" because I have read conflicting reports and have yet to measure mine) rear block and resulted in a 2" higher rear when I measured it initially. I added a 2" front leveler kit and now my truck sits perfectly level. The same could have been achieved by removing the 2" block but the truck would be sitting lower. Sooooo... by removing the factory 2" block and adding a 2" AAL + the Rize 6" block to the rear and adding 8" of lift to the front via the stage 1 and Bilsteins set at 2", the truck will sit level but 8" higher. Make sense now?
For some reason i still think you are gonna be sitting higher in the front. Maybe not.
Ill just wait for the pics, no need to try to explain i probably still wont get it. lol
good luck man cant wait to see it.
#26
so what you are saying is that you plan on getting rid of the 2" Block, correct? Replacing that with a 2" add a leaf? then adding a 6" block to that giving you a total of 8" of rear lift and 8" of front lift?
For some reason i still think you are gonna be sitting higher in the front. Maybe not.
Ill just wait for the pics, no need to try to explain i probably still wont get it. lol
good luck man cant wait to see it.
For some reason i still think you are gonna be sitting higher in the front. Maybe not.
Ill just wait for the pics, no need to try to explain i probably still wont get it. lol
good luck man cant wait to see it.
HAHAHAHA yeah you got it right bro.
From what FoMoCoFan was just saying about what he did and looking at his pics, I should be sitting about a full inch higher in the rear if I go with the Rize 6" block and Pro Comp AAL.
I might end up going with the Pro Comp 5.5" instead. I'll see how it adds up with the 4" Pro Comp and AAL and decide from there.
Hey FoMoCoFan.....
Do you have any type of rubbing issues with your wheels or tires?
I plan on going with a 37x13.5 but I already have some trimming done to my fenders and valance. That and I plan on going with a 4.5" backspaced wheel.
I'm **** when it comes to planning stuff.....can anyone tell?!
#28
Just to throw this out there, if it hasent already been thought of, you could loose the blocks all together and go with a lifted rear spring, and a shackle flip. There arent any for the 04-up trucks that I know of, but you could make one fit with little to no work besides maybe drilling a couple new holes in the frame. I added one to almost every truck I have had, and it add's approx. 4" of lift. Just an FYI
#29
Just to throw this out there, if it hasent already been thought of, you could loose the blocks all together and go with a lifted rear spring, and a shackle flip. There arent any for the 04-up trucks that I know of, but you could make one fit with little to no work besides maybe drilling a couple new holes in the frame. I added one to almost every truck I have had, and it add's approx. 4" of lift. Just an FYI
It would be better than 6" blocks anyway.
#30
The rize blocks dont have shims built in. You really shouldnt have to worry about the axle degree too much. Driveshafts are hit and miss as mentioned above, check the yoke when all is said and done. If its pulled out alot definately get some driveshafts made, mine was out a little over 2". New driveshafts front and back ran me about 450-500 locally.