Bad and EXPENSIVE news about my squeaking and shaking issue.

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  #16  
Old 02-27-2009, 12:41 AM
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Learning to do a few simple repairs to your vehicle will save you HUGE amounts of money over your lifetime. Get the parts, do some research, and go for it ... you'll do fine. If you run into problems, ask here.

Good Luck!
 
  #17  
Old 02-27-2009, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw
https://www.f150online.com/forums/19...0-vs-e150.html

Im okay, GF was a little sore but recovering


For ford parts online check out http://www.discountfordpartsaty2kford.com/
wow your truck got screwed for a SCrew! but anyway. but on the partsbin.com igot all the parts they told me to get for less than $300 and i went to the site u gave me and they kicked me off there cause they screwed me over and i refused to send the part back when i had already told them i wasnt going to in the first place and then they closed my account with them. they are dumb. but do you think parts from "thepartsbin.com" is a good web site to order from? do they have good quality parts?
 

Last edited by cadkins09; 02-27-2009 at 01:55 AM.
  #18  
Old 02-27-2009, 09:36 AM
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If its ford parts its gonna be good, Or if you buy something from autozone/orilies make sure it has a lifetime warranty
 
  #19  
Old 02-27-2009, 11:02 AM
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I don't know anything about those sites online, but I buy all my oem parts from NAPA and haven't had any problems with them the last few years. I'm pretty sure they come with lifetime warranties as well.
 
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Old 02-27-2009, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by _cashel
I don't know anything about those sites online, but I buy all my oem parts from NAPA and haven't had any problems with them the last few years. I'm pretty sure they come with lifetime warranties as well.
I forgot about NAPA. Are they pretty cheap?
 
  #21  
Old 02-27-2009, 12:22 PM
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yeah I guess they are. Back when I bought this truck a little over a year ago, I replaced all the tie rods + upper/lower balljoints and I remember it being somewhere around $300 for parts. I later replaced the idler arm and later pitman arm for pretty cheap as well. I just go to the NAPA here because I know everybody there and can trust them, which I can't say for the Vatozones and discount autos around here.
 
  #22  
Old 02-27-2009, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw
bring it up here ill do the work for you, alignment included
say cheers for that! good fellas around!
 
  #23  
Old 02-28-2009, 10:26 PM
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What squeeks and while doing what? Over bumps, I'd say upper or lower ball joints or both, side to side, pitman or tie rods. Bounce the front end, if it keeps bouncing, shocks = crap. Considering this mechanic figures by looking at your rotors that in deed all 4 are warped at the same time, he's trying to throw one in you a bit.
 
  #24  
Old 03-05-2009, 09:35 PM
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replaced my inner, outter tierods, upper and lower ball joints and had the alignment the within factory specs. in 3 hours and it was the first time i had ever done it.

bet i cant do that agian.

i also only payed 250 for everything... connections from NAPA.

The guy doing the alignment charged me half price cause it was so close. lol
 
  #25  
Old 03-05-2009, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 4.2trimble
replaced my inner, outter tierods, upper and lower ball joints and had the alignment the within factory specs. in 3 hours and it was the first time i had ever done it.

bet i cant do that agian.

i also only payed 250 for everything... connections from NAPA.

The guy doing the alignment charged me half price cause it was so close. lol
was yours squeaking too? i dont think ill do it myself. im either gonna pay or gonna get my friend who has a 67 Stang help me, he knows alot about mechanical stuff.
 
  #26  
Old 03-05-2009, 10:35 PM
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yeah it squeaked. but it also shaked BADLY.
 
  #27  
Old 03-05-2009, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 4.2trimble
yeah it squeaked. but it also shaked BADLY.
hmmm. thanks! my mechanic said this is a first for his shop so he couldnt give me a deffinit that it would stop squeaking. man all my freaking graduation money is going to have to go to getting my truck to stop speaking and new rotors and pads... gah. then another $500 to pay my parents back for a new computer cuz my house got struck by lightning.... i just wish when it got stuck by lightning it would have left a lightning f150 in my drive way.
 
  #28  
Old 03-06-2009, 10:33 AM
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ITS EASY AS LONG AS YOU MEASURE EACH SIDE FROM THE SAME PLACE ON THE FRAME TO MAKE SUR EACH SIDE IS EQUAL,THEN DO THE SAME WITH THE TIE ROD AND YOU SHOULD BE GOOD ENOUGHT TO DRIVE TO THE ALIGNMENT SHOP.AND FOR THE PITMAN ARM PUT IT BACK ON THE SAME PLACE YOU TOOK OFF.JUST USE A SHARPY TO KNOW WHERE IT CAME OFF PUT 2 MARKS ON ON EACH SIDE.(MARK THE ARM AND WHAT THE ARM COMES OFF OF,THEN PUT TO 2 ARMS TOGETHER AND REMARK THE 2nd ONE,THEN PUT BACK ON THE MATCHING LINES.) GOOD LUCK NOT HARD,MY BRO DID THE SAME **** ON A DODGE AND DODGES ARE HARDER TO WORK ON THAN FORD OR CHEVY.
 
  #29  
Old 03-06-2009, 06:16 PM
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ease up on the caps dude lol lay under your truck and figure it out, front end work on the F150 is super easy, whether 4x4 or 4x2. Dodge is a *****------ to do ball joints... haven't met a mechanic that likes em lol.
 



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