10inch plus rear leaf springs and drive shaft noise

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  #16  
Old 02-09-2010 | 06:14 AM
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Ok man let us know what goes on with that. I hope I don't get killed with shipping prices for a steel one haha. Maybe you can find someone to buy your aluminum driveshaft
 
  #17  
Old 02-09-2010 | 09:31 AM
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I might want to buy that aluminum one if you decide to get rid of it and go with a steel one. Of course I might go with a double cardan myself ton though.
 
  #18  
Old 02-10-2010 | 02:42 PM
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I just talked to one of the guys and he said only way to go double cardan joint is to go with steel. He said they start about 250 and go up from there. But I was saying I was gonna be running 14 inches of lift and then he started asking about angles and possibly dropping my transfer and all that for it to work
 
  #19  
Old 03-04-2010 | 01:43 AM
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Trev,

Can't remember if I told you or not but I talked to my guy and he said no can do with a double cardan on an aluminum shaft. He said it will get chewed up pretty fast and did not recommend it. He did say he wanted to do a slip-yoke eliminator with a steel double cardan shaft. Said the price would be north of 600 if I went that route but it would be bomb proof and pretty safe and better on the tranny side if I lost the shaft for whatever reason. F'ing truck is soo dam expensive!

I'm still going to try the shim route though first as the current shims are not cutting it.
 
  #20  
Old 03-04-2010 | 05:28 AM
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Damn $600+ for a shaft is nuts dude! Hope the shims work out for you. I don't see why it wouldn't. Shouldn't be too hard to fabricate either.
 
  #21  
Old 03-04-2010 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by tlt008
The only noise I had was when I let off the gas like mhockey said. It was a noise that you could feel too if that makes sense. I tried to get info on a double cardan shaft and the guy who put my lift on said a local company would be able to do it for around $250 he thought. I know that PST offers a double cardan shaft in their line-up so you might just talk to them. They might let you send your aluminum one back and do the conversion for cheap and you can just run your stocker and a Fabtech spacer in the interum. Just an idea. Might be beneficial to dtch the aluminum and go to a steel set-up again. Either way, PST is the cheapest route I think. Theirs a little info on their site about the topic. Good luck either way bro!
You describe the exact damn noise/symptom I have been trying to diagnose for 3 years; and I thought it was in the tranny or the rear end....

Anytime you let off from the gas say 55ish-70 you can feel it through the floor/gas pedal; and its like a loud grinding type noise... kinda like grrrrttt grrrrt grrrrrrrrrrt maybe

I went through about 2-3 sets of ujoints last year; maybe I need to see about some new drive shafts too... :o


You guys will have to educate me on this "double cardan" driveshaft/joint deal; I have steel driveshafts right now
 
  #22  
Old 03-05-2010 | 03:49 AM
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Matt that is the exact noise I have. Can most feel it in the floor when you let off the gas.

This is what a double cardan joint looks like that will fix the problem. They are far from cheap too. I have one on my front drive shaft and it doesn't make any noise at 50+ in the snow in 4h.

 
  #23  
Old 03-05-2010 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by sbchris
Matt that is the exact noise I have. Can most feel it in the floor when you let off the gas.

This is what a double cardan joint looks like that will fix the problem. They are far from cheap too. I have one on my front drive shaft and it doesn't make any noise at 50+ in the snow in 4h.

I guess I need to invest a bit more in my driveline because my front one made a hell of a lot of noise in the snow a few weeks back.
 
  #24  
Old 03-05-2010 | 11:06 AM
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Yah I'm going to go with the double cardan as well to prevent this noise from happening. I'm hoping to not spend anything over 600 shipped just for the rear driveshaft
 
  #25  
Old 03-05-2010 | 02:11 PM
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So... I have done a little bit of research to help educate myself on the subject; after nearly 3 years of this garbage noise/vibration I'm ready to have it gone!

Does this cardan joint go only on the connection to the axles? Not say the connections to the transmission side of the driveline?
 
  #26  
Old 03-07-2010 | 09:42 PM
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They put them up on the transmission/transfer case side. Normal u-joint on the axle side.
 
  #27  
Old 03-08-2010 | 03:12 PM
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the rear axle is clocked to the correct degree
Is your pinion parallel to the output of the tcase??? If it isn't then that would be your problem. With a double cardin you wnat your pinion pointed at or 2 degress low of the output but with a standard ujoint DS you want it parallel.
 
  #28  
Old 03-08-2010 | 08:30 PM
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The standard u-joint on the setup is parallel. When I added more leafs to my springs the angle just got too severe. At the normal Rize height, the PST shaft was perfect, but it was also designed for 6-8 inches of lift. I took it a little bit out of the normal operating range and went above 10-11 inches. I'll figure something out in a while as I can't fix it at the moment.

I must add PST reached out to me via this thread. They have some excellent customer service!!!
 



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