10inch plus rear leaf springs and drive shaft noise
#1
10inch plus rear leaf springs and drive shaft noise
Has anyone switched over to a double cardan joint on the rear drive shaft, on the end that slips into the transmission?
I have a custom Aluminum PST shaft on the truck right now, 10.5 inch leafs give or take a little bit more, and the rear axle is clocked to the correct degree. I'm getting some crappy noise around 70 mph and up. I think the current lift angle is just too much for the single u-joint to handle.
Anyone have any idea what a double cardan joint should run me to be fabbed onto my shaft (more or less what is the price of one of these joints)? I had to go this route on the front d/s and it solved my problems but was pricey!
Thanks
The truck used to be fine at 9.5 inches but I added in 3 missing leafs and now that extra inch to an inch and a half made one hell of a difference.
I have a custom Aluminum PST shaft on the truck right now, 10.5 inch leafs give or take a little bit more, and the rear axle is clocked to the correct degree. I'm getting some crappy noise around 70 mph and up. I think the current lift angle is just too much for the single u-joint to handle.
Anyone have any idea what a double cardan joint should run me to be fabbed onto my shaft (more or less what is the price of one of these joints)? I had to go this route on the front d/s and it solved my problems but was pricey!
Thanks
The truck used to be fine at 9.5 inches but I added in 3 missing leafs and now that extra inch to an inch and a half made one hell of a difference.
#3
The rear shaft came from PST http://www.pstds.com/
I had my front one done by South Bay Driveline http://www.sb-driveline.us/index.html
They ran north of 300+ each. I think the aluminum one was north of 450ish if I remember right?
I had my front one done by South Bay Driveline http://www.sb-driveline.us/index.html
They ran north of 300+ each. I think the aluminum one was north of 450ish if I remember right?
#4
The rear shaft came from PST http://www.pstds.com/
I had my front one done by South Bay Driveline http://www.sb-driveline.us/index.html
They ran north of 300+ each. I think the aluminum one was north of 450ish if I remember right?
I had my front one done by South Bay Driveline http://www.sb-driveline.us/index.html
They ran north of 300+ each. I think the aluminum one was north of 450ish if I remember right?
#5
With south bay I took the front off and they did the work. They are local and took the measurements.
With PST, they made the shaft based on measurements. I'm sure they have some in stock that they could pull numbers up from.
Sounds like OG had a defect or had a poorly built d/s.
I had a cobra with 750rwhp, slicks and an aluminum drive shaft and never once had a problem. Sounds like he had a different problem. The aluminum shaft in the truck does make more noise when I shift gears with my valve body.
With PST, they made the shaft based on measurements. I'm sure they have some in stock that they could pull numbers up from.
Sounds like OG had a defect or had a poorly built d/s.
I had a cobra with 750rwhp, slicks and an aluminum drive shaft and never once had a problem. Sounds like he had a different problem. The aluminum shaft in the truck does make more noise when I shift gears with my valve body.
#6
With south bay I took the front off and they did the work. They are local and took the measurements.
With PST, they made the shaft based on measurements. I'm sure they have some in stock that they could pull numbers up from.
Sounds like OG had a defect or had a poorly built d/s.
I had a cobra with 750rwhp, slicks and an aluminum drive shaft and never once had a problem. Sounds like he had a different problem. The aluminum shaft in the truck does make more noise when I shift gears with my valve body.
With PST, they made the shaft based on measurements. I'm sure they have some in stock that they could pull numbers up from.
Sounds like OG had a defect or had a poorly built d/s.
I had a cobra with 750rwhp, slicks and an aluminum drive shaft and never once had a problem. Sounds like he had a different problem. The aluminum shaft in the truck does make more noise when I shift gears with my valve body.
#7
By shifting noise I mean if you are hard on the throttle and have to let out fast cause of a dumb driver you'll hear the driveshaft make a "ting" noise from the hard shift. This won't happen on a stock truck as I have a modded valve body that shifts pretty wicked.
The noise I'm getting over 70mph starts to sound like the humming of an airplane which I want to get rid of.
The noise I'm getting over 70mph starts to sound like the humming of an airplane which I want to get rid of.
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#8
By shifting noise I mean if you are hard on the throttle and have to let out fast cause of a dumb driver you'll hear the driveshaft make a "ting" noise from the hard shift. This won't happen on a stock truck as I have a modded valve body that shifts pretty wicked.
The noise I'm getting over 70mph starts to sound like the humming of an airplane which I want to get rid of.
The noise I'm getting over 70mph starts to sound like the humming of an airplane which I want to get rid of.
#9
#10
The only noise I had was when I let off the gas like mhockey said. It was a noise that you could feel too if that makes sense. I tried to get info on a double cardan shaft and the guy who put my lift on said a local company would be able to do it for around $250 he thought. I know that PST offers a double cardan shaft in their line-up so you might just talk to them. They might let you send your aluminum one back and do the conversion for cheap and you can just run your stocker and a Fabtech spacer in the interum. Just an idea. Might be beneficial to dtch the aluminum and go to a steel set-up again. Either way, PST is the cheapest route I think. Theirs a little info on their site about the topic. Good luck either way bro!
#11
The only noise I had was when I let off the gas like mhockey said. It was a noise that you could feel too if that makes sense. I tried to get info on a double cardan shaft and the guy who put my lift on said a local company would be able to do it for around $250 he thought. I know that PST offers a double cardan shaft in their line-up so you might just talk to them. They might let you send your aluminum one back and do the conversion for cheap and you can just run your stocker and a Fabtech spacer in the interum. Just an idea. Might be beneficial to dtch the aluminum and go to a steel set-up again. Either way, PST is the cheapest route I think. Theirs a little info on their site about the topic. Good luck either way bro!
#13
Oh ok. Did they already have measurements down from other f150 guys buying drive shafts from them or did you have to give them some measurements to do it? Whats the best set up to go with in driveshafts? I hear aluminun is light but i know ogterror snapped his on a hard take off.
#14
#15
Yea, I'd give PST a call for a new shaft and to pick their brains.
I'll keep you guys posted on my shaft, I might stop by the south bay driveline to see what the guy thinks.
Trev,
Yea I'm thinking around 250 for a steel D/S with a double cardan. I know this aluminum is going to screw me price wise, ha! Oh well, it never ends but it sure is fun.
I'll keep you guys posted on my shaft, I might stop by the south bay driveline to see what the guy thinks.
Trev,
Yea I'm thinking around 250 for a steel D/S with a double cardan. I know this aluminum is going to screw me price wise, ha! Oh well, it never ends but it sure is fun.