Rear Leveling Question
#1
Rear Leveling Question
I had an AS 2" Leveling kit installed on my 2009 F-150 Screw a few months ago and it looks great, but I noticed that I am 1" low in the rear now. My rear blocks are 1 1/4 ". My question is should I go with a 2.5" leveling kit or 3"? I talked to Kevin at AS yesterday, and he suggested the 3", but he was under the impression my rear blocks were 1 5/8 ". I want to be level from front to back, but if I can't be, I'd rather be a little high in the back.
Thanks in advance.
Kevin.
Thanks in advance.
Kevin.
#2
#3
#6
Exact same situation as you... '09 4x4, 2" AS, front a little higher than the rear (~1/2"). I bought the 1" steel blocks from fatbobsgarage with their longer U-bolts and just stacked them on my stock blocks. If you go with the 3" block to replace your stock block, you will have almost as much rake as you started with before leveling the truck.
#7
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#9
I'm in the same situation can't decide how big I should go in the rear. IMHO I think some rack looks better. Does anyone now in the stock block is 1 5/8 or 1 1/4 or maybe both (do they have a angle) Had a buddy but a 1" on top of the stock and it looks level but so does mine HELP!!
If you don't mind a 1 1/8" rake, just use a 3" block instead of your stock block.
#10
Measurement wont be exact for each truck, especially older because of the springs sag rate differs. My advice is to get the 3 inch block, stacking blocks is dangerous and even more so when towing. By stacking blocks you chance the truck spitting out a block, and it will more than likely spit one in a corner when there is a side load in the suspension. Once this happens you can risk a spin out or even a roll over.
#11
Measurement wont be exact for each truck, especially older because of the springs sag rate differs. My advice is to get the 3 inch block, stacking blocks is dangerous and even more so when towing. By stacking blocks you chance the truck spitting out a block, and it will more than likely spit one in a corner when there is a side load in the suspension. Once this happens you can risk a spin out or even a roll over.
Note that I used a steel block. You can get an aluminum block as well, but I don't like combining dissimilar metals due to corrosion concerns.
#12
I'm going thru the exact same dilema. I ordered 3" blocks from AS (thinking that they were the only size offered). Now I'm concerned that the rear will be too high. I have a 2" front kit. I don't want the same rake it had from the factory.
Can the blocks be cut down?
Can the blocks be cut down?
Last edited by hammer40; 12-03-2010 at 05:23 PM. Reason: mispelling
#14
my advice is to get air bags for the rear. this will give you total control, and you can adjust for dead level, or rake of your preference, REGARDLESS of the load in or behind the truck.
they are a very easy install, and cost about 200.00. if you want to get an onboard air compressor (the best way to go in my opinion) for about 200 more.
with nothing in the bed of my truck, i can get about 3" or height change from empty bags to 100lbs of air. i have a 6" lift and hauled drums of water once(about 1500 lbs) and sat dead level with about 90 lbs of air. they really work great!
they are a very easy install, and cost about 200.00. if you want to get an onboard air compressor (the best way to go in my opinion) for about 200 more.
with nothing in the bed of my truck, i can get about 3" or height change from empty bags to 100lbs of air. i have a 6" lift and hauled drums of water once(about 1500 lbs) and sat dead level with about 90 lbs of air. they really work great!