It isn't going to sit level with that kit; it is going to be nose high just like the pictures I posted above. In addition, you will have a harsh angle on your upper control arm and ball joint.

If you go with the 2" kit, you will need to swap out the factory 1.5" block on the back with a 3" block, stack a 1" block on top of it, use an add-a-leaf or air springs to make the truck sit level with the 2" kit.

 

2009
kr what do you recommend? I am doing 35"s on my truck thats why I was told the 2" or 2 1/2 kit now both of these kits come with the rear level blocks also. Not sure if I had said that earlier!

 

also how do I correct the harsh angles on the control arm and balljoint? I want the truck level. no bulldogging.

 

I have a 2010 FX4 with the 2.5" AS kit on the front and the angles are nothing to worry about. Ford inspected mine while doing the final alignment and everything as fine. I also did the 3" blocks on the rear. Same as factory ride and it's been on there for 12k miles. This is the route I would go if wantitng to run 35" tires or if you are considering it down the road.

 

Looking at my UCA and ball joint angles, I would certainly not consider a 2.5" kit. If you could fit 35" tires with a 1.5" kit, I would do that. If it wouldn't fit, then I would do the 2" kit. If I was doing it again, I would likely use the Bilstein 5100 shocks to lift 1.5" or so. Personally, I won't consider 35" tires because I don't want to regear. Even going from the factor 32" tires to 33" tires will feel more sluggish. With 35" tires, you will shift between 5th and 6th much more when cruising. Do you at least have the 3.73 gear? 35" tires would be more reasonable with the 3.73 than the 3.55.

For the rear, I originally stacked a 1" block from fatbobsgarage on top of my factor 1.5" block. The truck sat about 1/2" high in the back with that setup. Since I purchased a 7000 lb travel trailer, I removed the 1" block and went with Firestone airsprings. I have a post here somewhere that shows the various heights at various pressures. At 0 psi the rear is 1/2" lower and at 10 PSI (minimum pressure), the rear is about 1/2" high. If you are going to tow a lot of weight or carry a lot of weight, this may be a better option for you. The air springs were trivial to install - much easier than replacing the rear block.

Replacing the rear shocks with Bilstein 5100s and adding the air springs didn't affect the ride much on except for when hitting larger bumps. It certainly kicks up more on harsh bumps than stock, but otherwise feels about the same.

While I am at it... If you replace your rear block, a couple of things to keep in mind:
1. You will need longer U bolts, as the factor bolts only have about 1/2" of spare thread.
2. You likely cannot do one side at a time. It is just too hard to get the pin to align this way.
3. You can throw your thrust angle off when doing this. Measure the distance from a fixed point on the rear (e.g. shock mount) to a fixed point on the frame (e.g. rear spring mount) and make them as close as you can on both sides. Mine is a little less 1/8" off, which isn't a problem. The slop in the pins on the rear allow a fair amount of front/back movement on each side.

 

You need to use the Bilstein 5100s with a 1.5" lift or a 1.5" lift kit. There is another downside to the 2" strut spacer. The bump-stop on the shock won't stop the suspension travel before the upper control arm smacks into the spring. This probably isn't a big problem, but it is somewhat disconcerting. Here is what it looks like jacked up (no weight on the wheel):

The picture I posted earlier in this thread shows the scar on my spring from the UCA hitting it. I believe that a two-piece spacer will prevent the control arm from hitting the spring, but it seems to me that for the same height, you will get the same UCA / ball joint angle. Same goes for the 5100, except the bump-stop should limit the suspension travel before impact. I don't understand how the Bilstein gives the advertised increase in suspension travel. (I am skeptical about this claim.)

 

I had a 2.5 AutoSpring kit on my 2005 and was very happy with the stance. It was perfectly level. I did A LOT of research about what to order for my 2011, and came to the conclusion that the 2" AutoSpring kit was the way to go. On the Ebay listing..they state that this kit will get you closest to dead level. To my surprise..when I got the kit today..the box says 2" kit. Then it says that the actual dimension is 1.5" which gives about 2" of lift. I hope they sent the right kit. I dont want my front low...AT ALL! If the 2" kit is actually 1.5" thick, it makes me wonder what the actual thickness of the 1.5" kit is.

 

look in my profile for the pics, I think it will be close to what you are getting I have the 275 70 18

 

okay I'm going with the 2' AS I want the look of marshals truck little lower in the front than the rear not much at all with 35"s mean looking stance he has!

 

???? Great post

 

Wandell was agreeing with the post above to stick with 33s. If u stick around long you will see that he is probably the best wheel and tire expert on this site. Don't be a jackass if you're not even reading his reply in context. Oh yeah, welcome to the site.

 

Does anyone know about the actual sizes of the AS leveling spacers? Is my 2" kit supposed to only be 1.5" thick?

 

That is usually how they are.1.5 inch spacer should net u close to 2 inches of lift. I wouldn't worry about it. If u are concerned call autospring tomorrow and double check. It changes the angles so the size of spacer will not equal amount of lift.

 

yours was so much better.....

the spacers aren't as thick as their added height. i don't understand exactly why but that's how it is.