Damn, I guess I'm just stuck then :/

 

the issue is keeping them tight. Most people don't check them, if they back off a little bit then you have a wheel no rolling perfectly straight and just begging to shear off studs.

nothing wrong with them, but i'd rather by wheels if i wanted the wheels out further or if a suspension kit made the stockers not work.

 

Look into a body lift!! and if you have some buddies tell them to help you out on the install, IF your mechanically inclined

 

body lift won't help his situation at all. He is rubbing frame not body.

The only way for him to get off the frame is a narrower tire or a wheel that pushes the tire out further which will require more lift of some sort.

 

^ahh forgot about that....the cheap way out is a narrower tire right about now

 

just to clarify anything over 3" physcially will not work. i've seen a 3" level in person and there is mayyybe 1/8" between the upper A arm and the coil. anything over that will rub the coil like crazy. ya noob lol

 

No Rub, I already said I jacked my truck up and the front suspension hung as far as it could go (more than 3'' lol) and even at full strut and A-arm extension there was NO RUB, so I don't believe you

 

Please report back what happens when you try, preferably w/ a photo of the look on your face showing disappointment

 

Will do, will probably be like a month before the bilstien's come in, they are on back order , but my Ball joints and Tie rods and 2.5" rear block is already in! Will post pics when I get everything on (If I get everything on )

 

a truck sitting on a jack and a truck sitting on wheels/tires provide for two diffrent scenarios. i don't see how your method proves. Enjoy it tho

 

i call BS you can't do anything more than a 3" level lmao

 

You do realize riding around at full droop or as close as you can get to is gonna provide for horrible ride quality, right?

 

I want pictures of a truck with 4" of front lift with no drop brackets or anything when this is installed. That is, if it's possible to get the truck reassembled

 

? I meant Rubbing at full extension when I jacked it up! And YES it is the same as your truck being in the air at full extension!
Pizza, why would it make the ride quality less? Not saying your wrong, I just want to know why
My UCA with ball joints are angled more for "off road use" and the homework I've done says your uppers wear out alot faster than lowers. Keep in mind I will NOT be hitting mud pitts or trails, strictly for looks!

 

No, a truck sitting on it's on weight is different than one on jackstands. And it might not have rubbing then but did you notice when you had it on jackstands your tires will be leaning in? Once you go to have an alignment done that's where you'll hit the major problems.

As for ride quality do you understand how suspension works when you hit speed bumps, pot holes, etc? For one thing the bilsteins add preload to the coils which means a stiffer ride. By itself it's nothing major. Now throwing a spacer on top of it so your sitting at full droop all the time means no down travel. So now you have a stiffer ride plus when you hit bumps your suspension can't hang any lower to absorb them, meaning you'll be trying to over-extend everything. That equals a harsh ride.

And angled for off-road use? Haha, that means nothing. They'll still work just the same. The only kind of joint that would make a difference for off road use would be uniballs, which you don't have. I can't remember if you said you got the kind with grease fittings, but I sure hope you did.