Added 1/2" spacers. That would change the caster / camber, correct? That shouldn't really affect the toe at all?

The alignment shop just told me these trucks do not have factory adjustable caster / camber. Is that true? And if so, besides the tie rods, what is adjustable?

Anyway, when adding a 1/2" spacer like I plan, what's thrown out of alignment and what's done to correct?

I understand how changing suspension angles affects things and how alignments work, but when the shop told me the caster and camber aren't adjustable, that threw me off.

 

Throws me off too! I THINK that leaves only "toe in/out" as an adjustable parameter, and I just can't believe that is the case.

I wonder what a Ford dealership service shop would tell you?

- Jack

 

Doing some reaserch, I am starting think these trucks do not have caster or camber adjustments from the factory. I guess that's what cam kits are for?

That said, after adding a 1/2" spacer, I'm not sure what an alignment would even do?

Since I'm 2wd, I'll be easily removing the coil assembly to add the spacer. I will not be removing the upper control arm/ball joint or the tie rod. Besides taking off the wheel, I'll only be removing the one large bolt at the bottom of the coil over and the three on top.

If none of those parts are touched, and the caster and camber in fact can not be adjusted, I'd come to the conclusion the alignment would do nothing but waste money.

Pizzaman, I know you know a lot about suspension, have any ideas?

And Jack, thanks for the reply!

 

It is adjustable, but cam kits make it about 10x easier to do as well as give a wider range of adjustment. From the factory the range of adjustment isn't much, but I think it'd still be enough to compensate for a 1/2" level. If they had told you that you'd need a cam kit it'd be one thing, but flat out saying it's not adjustable basically means you should find a different shop to go to because even though it's a small amount of change, you'll still want to get it corrected.

 

Thank you!

 

I can concur with pizzaman, there is castor and camber adjustments on these trucks, but not much. I can tell you this as I just went through all this with mine after installing those shocks.

On these trucks castor and camber is adjusted with the LCA, not the upper like most other vehicles. The holes where the LCA bolts to the frame are elongated, allowing the bolts to slide inward toward the center of the vehicle, or outward thus adjusting the camber. If you only move the front or rear bolt inward or outward you adjust the caster. The UCA are fixed so you cannot move them.

So this elongated hole in the frame where the LCA bolts to is adjustable, however having a cam kit does make it much easier to adjust accurately. I have found two types of cam kits and they are both by Moog. One sucks while the other is better.

This one sucks: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=518&jpid=3
With weight on the wheels (at least in my application) the el cheapo stamped and bent brackets that the cam rotates in was too much and the little tabs just bent and weren't strong enough to hold when the cam rotated against the weight of the truck. It's hard to explain but trust me, they suck, and the better ones are cheaper and easier to install.

These are the good ones, also by Moog: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=518&jpid=2
These unlike the other ones do not require you to remove and replace the whole bolt assembly but rather reuse your factory bolts. All you do is remove the nut from the factory bolt, slide on the bracket and cam and then adjust. The brackets are cut or CNC'd out of one piece of metal instead of stamped and bent. Don't ask me why they are cheaper but they are.

With that all being said cam kits are usually only required when you need to adjust the camber more than 1 degree. If it's off by less than one degree they should be able to adjust it without the cam. If you feel generous you could get the cam kit and put it on anyway.

I'm getting ready to remove the first set of crappy cams and install the new plates tomorrow in preparation for my new replacement shocks and alignment after. I would suggest after installing your spacer to at least take it in and have it checked. Many shops will check alignment for free. If it's off by .5 degrees or more I'd have them do it. All in all camber and caster will affect tire wear and life so keep that in mind if you have a decent or new set of tires on.

 

Good info, thank you.

I had my truck lifted 2" in the front in the past and didn't need the cam kit then, so I don't think I'd need it for only 1/2" taller than stock.

That said, I'm not sure if the place that did my alignment back then adjusted the camber, however, they were a much better non chain shop.

The place I went to the last time (only because it was the only place that could get me in quickly) was the place that said camber and caster are not adjustable. However, they also took three separate alignments to get my steering wheel centered. I'm going to chalk it all up to this place has no clue what they're doing. It's just sucks alignments run right around $90 in my area.

 

yes it's all adjustable from the lower control arm like said by others.

1/2" spacer....I wouldn't bothered with an alignement.

The adjustement with or whitout the cam bolt are the same.....just that it's most likely to not move with the cam bolt then without.

 

Thanks.

I spoke with a reputable shop and the guy said the same thing. When adding that half inch spacer it's not going to make enough of a difference to need an alignment, especially since tie rods and the uca aren't even being touched. I rotate tires every 3k anyway.

The place that said the camber wasn't adjustable was a chain shop that has no clue what they're speaking of.

 

Yep, they are adjustable for caster and camber .... as well as toe. They have a factory range .... it's limited by height, rake, and the lengths of the slots present for the LCA inner pivots. Toe adjustment is also limited by the length of the threaded parts.

Beside adjustment, changing a truck's rake frt to rear by changing rear ride height will affect caster .... and lowering and raising the front will affect camber, caster, & toe.

In some cases of lowering enough that the limits of the slots were reached ..... a simple lengthening of the slots alleviated the problem. Lowering tends to flatten out the longer LCA which kicks the tire out at bottom. With toe adjustment ..... I know some have cut a little bit off the end of the sleeve or TRE threads.

Pulling both frt and rr LCA inner monts inwards the exact same only affects camber. Pulling one in a different amount than the other or in a different direction .... or just pulling one in leaving the other alone affects camber and changes caster.

Toe is adjusted last after one is happy with camber & caster.

 

Thanks for the info!

Even though a very reputable shop in my area told me not to worry about needing an alignment when adding a small 1/2" spacer (NOT the same shop that said camber and caster aren't adjustable), I'm still going to get the alignment checked next week. All said and done, I netted about 3/4" and it looks good to me.

 

Toe won't effect Camber, caster, but Camber and caster will effect toe in/out. Thats why when they do an Alignment, they will do caster/camber first, then adjust toe. Toe is adjusted on the tie rod ends, and the others are adjusted with cam bolts on the Lower control arm, but as the others have said, not much. With that spacer, you should be fine. Install it and have it aligned. Be sure to check wheel bearing play, tie rods, and both ball joints for play, if the front end is tight, go for the alignment!

 

A slight camber change will result in a large toe change

The slots in the frame are there. The bolts makes it easier to control the movement in the slots for camber/caster.
Bolts should be about + or - 1* from centered spec

 

I agree. I added a 1/2" spacer. Expected it to only affect camber, but they mentioned it affected toe more than anything. I wasn't far enough out of spec that I wouldn't have noticed abnormal tire wear, but I did it to be safe.

 

Thanks. All done.

Also, tie rods, upper and lower bjs, sway bar links, coilovers are all brand new and bearings have no play.