Not that anyone will care about this either, but the bolts should never actually be in shear. The clamping force the bolts create (while in tension) is supposed to create enough friction between the metal so the bolts are not loaded in shear. A valid point would be that a design where the bolts were in tension would have a better “failure safe” if the bolts were loose.

I feel strongly that any brand name hitch that is specifically designed for the truck, installed properly, with the correct hardware will perform as specified. My biggest complaint about my last three aftermarket hitches is rust. They have all corroded and lost their paint after a few winters. So far my current factory hitch has not done this. Feeling strongly about a hitches ratings when new is all fine, but I have to wonder how these things hold up after 5 years or more with no paint.

 

I tend to obcess about things, but shearing the bolts off the hitch would not be one of them. I read one report about the bolts being bent after a wreck. I would obcess though about welding on the frame. Not something I would recomend.

 

I didn't see anyone mention this yet, so I will. I have a Hidden Hitch, and wouldn't trade it for anything. I don't do a lot of towing, but it's there when I need it, and it's built very well. Not a lot of cuts and stress points, plus it doesn't hang down and in the way. It clears my exhaust and spare tire with no problem, and with excpetion of the receiver tube and chain loops it can't really be seen. I got mine at a local truck shop for $109.

BTW, it has a rating of 8,000lbs trailer and 800lbs tongue...


Not the best picture, but you can kinda see what's going on...

 

Good looking truck. I do see that you are using the 17" FX4 rims but my concern is the fact that my truck comes from factory with 265/70/17 or a little over 31". I started looking at the Draw-tite Ultra Frame hitch but I need to call a local shop to get some questions answered unless someone has one on here. It looks as if it is a no drill hitch in the since that you do not have to drill the frame. But the Ultra Frame hitch has side brackets that require you to drill a hole in the bumper brackets to access an existing hole in the frame for them to bolt on. Since U-Haul also sells this hitch I may get it from them because of the "if you break it, we will replace it no matter what" warranty they offer. Not like I will be hauling anything real heavy but I may get a 24' enclosed trailer to pull my toy to a couple of places, about a 2k trailer with a 3300lb car.

Thanks, man I didn't think that picking out a hitch would be this troublesome.

 

Ahh, here it is...
http://store6.yimg.com/I/hitches4less_1762_11825050

 

F.L.U.F.
I'll take a look under mine tomorrow, and see what the largest size tire that would fit is. I'm assuming your worry is at the rear of the spare tire, not the sides? The Hidden Hitch is as wide as the frame so the sides are not a problem, but I'll check on the rear. It is a complete bolt on, no drilling at all. If you're interested I could get some pix on my truck...

 

Thanks. I just was thinking of what was on Putnam's site and wondered if other hitches were the same way. The way the Hidden that you have looks as if it has mounts for both a 7-way and a 6-way plug, is that right?

 

Well I ended up with a Valley #81760. The FX4 spare just literally squeaks by on the side brackets and there is about 2" to play with for the cross tube. The cross tube is made on a pseudo curve to clear the spare from the way it looks. All that can be seen of the hitch is just the receiver tube and the 2 safety chain holes leaving the cross tube completely behind the bumper. The weight rating is standard class III/IV at 5/5K and 1k/10K.

Thanks.