Towing & Hauling

Beefing a 1995 F-150 for towing

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Old 07-24-2005, 06:12 PM
dgeesaman's Avatar
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Beefing a 1995 F-150 for towing

I'm going to be towing a bumper-pull 2horse trailer (about 6000lb max when loaded) with a 1995 F-150 XLT 4x4/auto/5.8l/tow pkg. So that's not a whole lot of margin since the truck's towing capacity is 7300lb.

For a few hundred bucks, what can I do to increase the safety of the rig? My first impression is F-250 brakes, suspension, tranny coolers, diff/axles, etc. This truck will be used almost exclusively to tow.

Thanks for the help,

Dave
 
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Old 07-24-2005, 06:25 PM
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Add an extra leaf spring. This will allow you to load a little more tongue weight while still keeping the truck level and stable. My biggest difficulty pulling trailers is getting enough tongue weight to eliminate fishtailing without sagging the rear of the truck so low it picks up on the front wheels and makes my steering unstable.

As far as brakes, the trailer should have brakes. If they are electric, you will need to get an electric brake actuator and have it wired up. Any good trailer place will be able to do this for you (as well as making sure your wiring, hitch, etc. are all up to snuff).
 
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Old 07-24-2005, 10:37 PM
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Air bags on the rear instead of an extra leaf will let the ride remain the same and still let you load it up.

+1 big time on trailer brakes and all the other stuff.

Think also about semi-synthetic of a full syntetic tranny fluid too to help with the heat that it's gonna make.
You'r tranny can be re-built to accomodate a heavier load too.

Make sure you have LT tires instead of P's to handle the extra load.

What gears are in it?? Anything 3.73 or taller should be OK.

Good luck.......
 
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Old 07-24-2005, 10:54 PM
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Yep, electric trailer brakes were assumed. Anyone towing a 6000lb trailer without them deserves to get run over. The truck has a controller installed already. But I want to be sure the truck's brakes will work if the electric brakes give out. They already feel a little soft - so if I'm going to rebuild the master cylinder (or buy a new one), I might as well install brakes with *****.

I'll look into the airbags as well - but honestly ride quality is not a factor - if an extra leaf is cheaper/easier I'll go that route.

It's got the 3.55 (H9) rear diff - would swapping in a 4.10 be simple and worthwhile?

Dave
 
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Old 07-25-2005, 10:48 PM
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3.55's pretty high for towing, although I work with trailers and I tow every day, with 3.55's, I usually am not loaded up though. Most are new empty trailers.

3.73's should be enough, but the taller the more power it will seem. The downfall to a taller gear is poorer fuel economy.
4.10's cool....4.56's probably too much

The problem with switching gears in a 4x4 is you have twice the cost because you're doing both front and rear.

I'd see how it tows after some of the other stuff....you can always switch gears.

Good luck......
 
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Old 07-26-2005, 08:00 AM
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4x4 ratio change

yeah, I figured 2 diffs will cost more than one. I imagine the 4.10s are easiest and best choice. However, is it a direct bolt-in once I get the new pumpkins?

Also, if I install a basic E4OD shift kit, will it still shift harshly when towing? (I'm pulling horses, and I don't want them to shift their balance on account of a simple upshift).

Thanks for the help.

Dave
 

Last edited by dgeesaman; 07-26-2005 at 08:02 AM.
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Old 07-26-2005, 10:55 PM
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If you buy ford gears they have the correct shims already in it which takes out most of the work of changing gears. There are better gears some will say, but none easier to change......

If I were towing a non-living load I might put in a shift kit....nah...I like my animals to arrive with out scrambling in transit. If they start to scramble they may start to dislike being in the trailer and never want to load again. I would just go through it, put in a tranny cooler or a bigger tranny cooler and run synthetic fluid. They also make bigger pans to hold more fluid too and have a drain plug on the bottom making changing easy.

Good luck........
 



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