Towing & Hauling

Now what?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 12-30-2005, 05:46 PM
Highside's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Now what?

Hi guy's,
I purchased a 05 F 150 a few months ago. Since that purchase, we decided to up grade our racin trailer to a 24 ft "toy box". The truck is a super cab, 145" WB, 5.4 eng with 3:55 gear & factory tow package.

Here's the issue: I took the whole rig to the scale to see where I stand. I'm about 1000 lbs under all the max's (fully loaded) with the exception of the tongue weight and the Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating. The tongue weight is 1100 lbs & I'm right at the RGAWR (3850 lbs)!

Will a weight weight distribution hitch save me or am I stuck going upsided down on a new F250? I would much rather invest in upgrades to the truck than have the dealer take me to the cleaners, but I don't want to kill the truck & end up with nothin either!

What's your thought's?
Thanks,
 
  #2  
Old 12-30-2005, 07:02 PM
MitchF150's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
You need to use a WD hitch for anything over #500 tongue weight due to the hitch ratings anyway..... "most" hitches, even ones one the Super Duties have different ratings for running with straight tongue weight and running WD.

The WD hitch should help distribute some weight to the front axles and some back onto the trailers axles....

It might be enough go take some off the rear axle.

Hope you have some LT rated tires and not the stock P rated ones!

Good luck!

Mitch
 
  #3  
Old 12-30-2005, 09:20 PM
Highside's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Since I'll be needing a WD hitch one truck or the other I guess I should get one, hook it all up, and see what the results are.

I just wondered if a WD hitch will take #500 off the rear axle & if pulling within 1500 lbs of the max rate will slowly kill the truck.

Thanks for your input.
 
  #4  
Old 12-31-2005, 02:31 AM
MitchF150's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Towing anything is going to cause additional wear and tear on any truck.... Even my #4500 TT with only #550 tongue weight causes my truck to work pretty hard compared to running empty.

I use a WD setup with my rig. I don't know how much weight it's actually transfering, but it only drops down about an inch when the tongue is dropped on. After I set the WD bars, the rear end is back to it's original ride height, so it must be distributing some of the weight... I am using #1000 bars, so it does not take much tension to do that.

You might be able to move around a couple hundred pounds, but 500 might be pushing it some....

Like you said, get the WD setup and see where you are.... Take it easy while towing and don't try to be the first one up the hills... Keep the fluids fresh and you should be okay.

Mitch
 
  #5  
Old 12-31-2005, 10:16 AM
Highside's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks Mitch, I guess I'll give it a go. As long as I keep myself behind the wheel I'll surely take it easy!
I'm soooooo PO'ed at myself for getting the truck, then two months later deciding to get the "toy box".
Oh well ...................................
 
  #6  
Old 01-03-2006, 06:54 PM
fast636's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Coxsackie, NY
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
you shouldn't be usingf 1000# bars unless the trailer has 1000# of tounge weight. They make different size bars for a reason. If it was advisable to use the larger size bar for all applications then they would only make one size bar. Don't use the excuse that they make diff sizes to make more $ because most of these kits cost the same nomater what size bar they come with.

I would also recomend going with a round one piece bar system, I have had the square(trunion) style bars break were the end piece is attached.
 
  #7  
Old 01-03-2006, 09:56 PM
Zaairman's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: St. Charles, MO
Posts: 5,843
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by fast636
you shouldn't be usingf 1000# bars unless the trailer has 1000# of tounge weight. They make different size bars for a reason. If it was advisable to use the larger size bar for all applications then they would only make one size bar. Don't use the excuse that they make diff sizes to make more $ because most of these kits cost the same nomater what size bar they come with. I would also recomend going with a round one piece bar system, I have had the square(trunion) style bars break were the end piece is attached.
With how much Mitch tows, I'm sure that he does this for a reason... My money is on him.
 
  #8  
Old 01-04-2006, 03:04 AM
MitchF150's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
fast636,

I use the #1000 bars because the trailer frame is rated for them and they do a great job at WD and they also take up the additional payload I have in the bed when I go camping. I usually haul around my tool box, a 20lb LPG tank for the BBQ, a bunch of firewoood and other crap that just rides around in the bed 'just in case'....

Besides, you can adjust the tension by how many links you have under tension, so it's not like I'm using all #1000 of the bars rating anyway. I've messed around with the tension and I can tell a difference with a one link +/- of where I normally run them. Loosen the tension, the rig tends to bounce more over bumps. Increase the tension, it's a bit stiff and it actually lifts the rear end up. Right in the middle and all is nice and level and the ride is pretty good.... The #1000 bars did not cost any more then the #750 or #500 that were available at the time. I also figured if I got a larger trailer in the future, I could keep my WD setup for the new rig!

I prefer the round bars myself too.... If you break one of those, then there is something wrong!

Mitch
 
  #9  
Old 01-04-2006, 06:07 PM
bamorris2's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
I absolutely agree with Mitch... Get a good w/d hitch, and you'll be in much better shape. But have realistic expectations, and don't expect miracles. I tow a ~4700 lb travel trailer, and it does pretty good, even going up hills. I frequently pass other tow vehicles, even diesels (although I'm sure they're towing MUCH heavier loads). But I know my 1/2 ton has it's limitations, and I don't exceed those limits. A good rule of thumb is to stay at or under 80% of your truck's ratings, including GAWR's, GVWR, and combined truck/trailer ratings (I forgot that acronym).

Just take it easy, keep up on your maintenance, and give yourself extra stopping distance. BE SAFE!!

BTW, if you want to be convinced to buy a F250/F350, then visit RV.NET and those guys will quickly presuade you. If you want to make do with your F150, then stay away from that site
 
  #10  
Old 01-04-2006, 08:43 PM
Winsurfer76's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bamorris2
BTW, if you want to be convinced to buy a F250/F350, then visit RV.NET and those guys will quickly presuade you. If you want to make do with your F150, then stay away from that site
I agree on that one!!!!
 
  #11  
Old 01-04-2006, 09:07 PM
ViperGrendal's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 765
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bamorris2
BTW, if you want to be convinced to buy a F250/F350, then visit RV.NET and those guys will quickly presuade you. If you want to make do with your F150, then stay away from that site
There's a few people over there towing with half ton rigs. Most of them will tell you they wished they had a bigger truck though. I would fit into that category.

As far as original post. Yeah, WD hitch. You might also want to beef up the rear suspension with airbags or overload "helper" springs. Another thing to consider is a transmission temp guage so you know that you're not overheating. It doesn't sound like you're pushing the limits as much as I am (except with your tongue weight), but I can tell you I was in need of extra cooling for the tranny. Over the new year we went on the camping trip and the Troyer tranny cooler fan kicked on a couple times in city traffic. It kept it well below 200 degrees though.

edit: is this by chance a 5th wheel that you're pulling? The reason I ask is because that's a lot of weight for a 24' trailer.
 

Last edited by ViperGrendal; 01-04-2006 at 09:11 PM.
  #12  
Old 01-07-2006, 10:11 AM
Highside's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Been sick so I haven't replied lately.

It's a tag trailer. The weights I posted are "worst case" which includes 120 gal of water to wash the three motorcycles we haul to the tracks. Any trips over 150 miles would be made without the water which we would add when we get close to our destination.
Except for a few "household items", all the cargo weight will be added behind the trailer axles. The water tanks will be positioned directly over the trailer axles. I have taken steps to lighten the load. Smaller power washer, smaller air compressor etc. It's amazing how, when you start weighing cargo, how fast it adds up! I'll get it all set up & head for the scales to see where I stand. I'll also search out a temp gauge for the trans.

Thanks,
 




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:22 PM.