I'm full of stupid questions and, to some, this may top the list...

Right now, I'm scoping out how I'm going to pull my 1978 Bronco back from 'home' to my current location. Weight on the vehicle is around 5500# stock and I'm not very comfortable just pulling it on a trailer with the truck's brakes as the sole provider for stopping power... With that in mind, I know I have access to a trailer with electric brakes and thus, I know I'm going to need a controller...

Beyond that though, I'm a little foggy. So, with that in mind, can someone walk me through this, in very simplistic terms, so that a guy that is VERY new to towing can understand and adapt to this turning point in my 'truck ownership' road?

I understand that the 'controller' controls the amount of trailer brake 'stopping power' but, how does it do that? I understand that, by having the towing package on my 05', I have the harness and relay and will need to plug both in but, all the talk about the Prodigy and other controllers -- well, I'm confused.

I foresee me using this thing very rarely once I get the 78' in good shape -- I'll probably take it to a few shows -- but, beyond that, I don't think I'll be using it. My only experience thus far with this truck and some sort of controller was something that I had to plug into my cig lighter when I rented a mini-excavator for a home project from Home Depot. Would something like this work? Where can you get something like this? Is this a cheaper/easier option? Was that some special system on that trailer? I'm confused.

HELP! .... and be gentle. Again, I'm a self-admitted towing-idiot and am in need of some help.

-=RP=-

 

basically it controls the voltage to the brake solenoids on the trailer. you adjust the "gain".
1 volt barely applies them and 12 volts is full application.
Oh and for a good cheap controler. i use a rease one from wallyworld or TSC. costs about $40 and works ok.

 

a little more info.


when you get a controller you will need to connect the wires on it to the pig tail you have in the bag with the relays and fuses. it should be a matter of connecting 5-6 wires color to color. this plugs into the plug under the dash. not the diagnostic one but the trailer one. I'm not sure on 04 and up but on older ones its on the trim by your right leg. the controller needs to be placed where you can reach it while driving. mine is in the dash in one of the storage holes.
With the trailer empty you adjust the gain down or you'll feel the trailer stopping the truck. adjust it so its a neutral feeling when stopping. with the trailer loaded turn it up. remember when you touch the brakes the trailer brakes will apply at what ever you set them to regardless of how hard you apply the truck brakes. on the controller there is a manual slider to apply the brakes. this is used to gain control of the trailer if it starts swaying on in a panic stop.

 

If the price is not a problem I would get a Tekonsha Prodigy and a wire harness at www.rjays.com for $116 including shipping. The harness has a plug at both ends making it a plug and play. Very smooth operation and no fussing with it. You can look at this at www.tekonsha.com It shows install etc..

 

Thanks guys... I'm still a little intimidated by hauling this Bronco but, it's going to happen.

Again, I know it's a goofy question for some but, being that hauling isn't something I do -- in fact, something that I've rarely done -- I don't want to get into a bind where I can't get my butt out and certainly want to tow in a safe manner.

Thanks again fellas... I may check into the cheaper Reese model from Wally as I really don't want to dump a plethora of cash into this -- it simply won't be used very often.

Is spending the $100 over the $40 really going to get me that much more bang or that much more simplicity? Mind you, I'm a two or three times per year -- tops -- tower.

RP

 

Go with the better control. The reese one that is described is a timer not a control. Th ediff is that the timers start out giving the brakes 12 volts and then over a predetermined amount of time (seconds) drops the voltage. This will make the stops very jerky and uncomfortable. You can get a good tekonsha control for about $70-90 the prodigy listed for $116 is a hell of a deal I have seen them for $180.

You are talking about somehting that in a pinch could save your life or someone else's. For the extra $60. Get the good stuff.

And there are only four wires on the back of the control. Blue is brake feed, red is from the cold side of the stop light switch, white is ground and black is 12 volt feed. the harness that came with your truck has five wires and the fifth is Illumination, you won't use that wire. The colors on the harness that came with the truck are different colors and should be labled.

 

Or you could get a new F250 Powerstroke King Ranch with the Tow command as an option. no worries with towing with this.

it will be my next new vehicle. well not the KR option.

RP, since its a matter of plugging in the controller. could you borrow one.

 

IMHO it should be against the law to sell the timer based brake controllers. I now have my Prodigy on it's second truck. It is definitely worth the difference. The life you save may be yours. & I'm not kidding.

 

The Prodigy is far and away the most popular electric brake controller out there, from what I have read here and on towing and RV websites and forums. The less expensive controllers generally do not provide proportional braking. As fast636 mentioned, most of the cheaper ones operate on a timer function. Although my understanding was the opposite of his; I thought they started off with mild braking, and braked stronger the longer you stayed on the brakes. I don't have first-hand experience with them, though, so I could be wrong. Either way I don't think they would give you very smooth braking, and the braking force would not always be exactly how much you need at the moment.

Anyway, the Prodigy is supposed to provide proportional braking. It has an inertia sensor which senses the initial deceleration of the towing vehicle when the brakes are applied, and sends a proportional signal to the trailer electric brakes. The harder you hit your towing vehicle brakes, the stronger the initial surge of deceleration, and the harder the Prodigy will apply the trailer brakes.

In my opinion, if you can get the Prodigy and the plug'n'play harness for $116 shipped, I would be all over that.

 

RP, Here is the Prodigy on Ebay for a great price, just bought one for myself.

Ebay

 

After your first half a dozen stops with the Prodigy, you will be glad you paid the little extra for one... Believe me.

I cheaped out and got the $40 time based controller when I first got my travel trailer.... OMG... It was so hard to get it calibrated, that it would either be too low or just lock the trailer brakes. I had to adjust it 'high' for running down the hwy, but that same setting when running in town would lock the wheels or jerk you to death at best. Then I'd set it 'low' and it would still jerk you back and forth.....

I spent $150 for mine, but I don't care! It's the best darn controller I've ever used and will ever use!

The Prodigy is an enertia based setup, so it 'feels' how hard the truck is stopping and gradually applys more volts to the trailer. Just follow the really easy setup instructions and then fine tune it to your specific rigs liking and you won't have to mess with it again for the most part!

Mitch

 

Basically, you can't calibrate a time based brake controller. You set it where it'll stop you at speed. Then it'll drag the truck to a stop in a slow stop. Set it where it won't drag the truck down. Then it won't stop at speed. And that'll get you killed.

That's why I think they should be against the law.

 

Thanks for the input on the Prodigy guys... I think I may go that route. May as well have a nice one...especially when it comes to this stuff.

So there's a pigtail that will make this thing plug and play? I just need the harness there from RJays? (Rjays, btw, is about 20 minutes from where I'm managing a HUGE lead cleanup project there in Missouri).

RP

 

Yep, just get the Ford pig tail for it and all you do it plug it in, mount it, set it and off you go. If you mount it in the little 'craddle' attachment, you can even remove it when not needed! That's what I did and it takes all of 5 seconds to remove or replace.

Mitch

 

Thanks Mitch... will I still need to put in the relay and such that comes in the plastic bag (the towing 'stuff')?